Theft, Salar de Uyuni, the Highest City in the World and the Potosi Silver Mines

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Day 45: A fantastic day horse-riding on the ranch with Janni! Got up at 7am to leave at 8 from the office in town but a mix-up with the minibus and a very long drive meant we didn't get started until about midday. My horse, Mio (mine in Spanish) was huge but great to ride, very calm and quick! The scenery was stunning, like a postcard, and so overall it was a very good day!

Day 46:Quite a lazy day today as still tired from yesterday. We we explored the huge park (250 hectares) about 15 blocks from the city centre which was really pretty and had a very friendly atmosphere. We then went to a fairly posh street next to Plaza Independencia for a drink and then in the evening we were all pretty tired and so ordered some empananadas and pizza and settled down in front of Kung Fu Panda!

Day 47: Got our hair cut today at a local salon after we were given the Spanish for what we wanted by Janni. It was a success! In the evening Ade was staying at a friend's house and so we invited Janni out for a meal, seeing as this was to be our last night in Mendoza. We headed once again to 'Andares' (Janni's local). The food was amazing with a 'volcano' of mozzerella, tomato and basil, chips and a large salad. We all left absolutely stuffed!

Day 48: Today we got up at 6.30am to get a bus to Santiago. We were very sad to leave Mendoza and Janni behind having loved it there, particularly it's chilled out nature. We arrived in Santiago around 3pm and instead of jumping straight on a bus to Calama Alex persuaded me to spend at least one night in the capital city. We therefore found a good hostel called Maoi and after dropping off our stuff, headed to the city centre where we explored the mercado central and the 'coffee with legs' cafes! That night we watched Watchmen at the hostel with a group of Aussies also staying there.

Day 49 and 50: In the morning we headed to the fruit and veg market away from the touristy part of the city. We tried some of the fruit smoothies, the mango was amazing, and then bought some olives stuffed with peppers and some strawberries. After having some empanadas for lunch we went to the Chilean National History Museum before dashing to the bus station and hopping on the 4.30 bus to Calama. The journey turned out to be very exciting as Alex became a witness to the theft of an English girl's bag. The culprits stupidly returned to the bus station about 5 minutes later clearly thinking that no-one had noticed, but Alex pointed them out to the local police and they were arrested, though the girl's passport was nowhere to be found. The upset Anne eventually got back on the bus, being comforted and given advice by her 3 friends. We arrived in Calama the next morning and due to the lack of a proper police report, which Anne would need to get another passport, Alex, Anne and Ashley went to the local police station whilst I went with the other 2 girls to San Pedro de Atacama, about an hour and a half away to book a hostel for us all that night, as the others booked tickets for a later bus. We found a cheap hostel for $6500 Chilean a night and I went with Grace to pick up the others from the bus station around 10pm. We then all went for a meal out, and learnt that Anne had to go to Arica (about 10 hours away) to get a temporary passport, which was good news because it meant she wouldn't have to go all the way back to Santiago which was 20 hours or so away. The others then went to bed but Alex and I walked out of the town to go stargazing at a perfectly clear sky (its only cloudy here 5 days of the year). Amazing!

Day 51: After a late start Alex and I headed into town to find a tour to the Salar de Uyuni. After looking around a lot of companies and collecting prices we went to the tourist information to look at recommendations and horror stories. We decided to go for a company called Estrella del Sur and after bumping into 4 other English girls (Aimee (a.k.a. Kev), Hannah (a.k.a. Pikey), Ali and Evie) wanting to do the same thing we booked the 3 day tour with them for a discounted $70,000 Chilean. We then bought some tuna and tomato sandwiches for lunch and after realising it was too late to visit the nearby Valle de la Luna for the sunset we went to the local history museum that contained a lot of Incan artifacts (tools, weaving etc.). After a chip supper we once again went to watch the stars.

Day 52: With our bags already packed we headed to the company's hq at 8.30am to beginm the tour. We took a minibus to the Bolivian border and after having our passports stamped we got into the 4x4 we would be using for the rest of the trip. After a very good breakfast we got on our way with the 4 English girls, our driver Edgar, and some Bolivian tunes which were soon replaced by our Ipods! Our first stops were Laguna Blanca, Laguna Verde and a salt rock desert. We then made it to the Polque hot springs where we chilled out with a fantastic view in the sunshine. It was then onto some very sulphurous geysers at 5,200 metres and then to the accomadation for that night, where we made a quick visit to Laguna Colorada, red in the afternoon, where lots of flamingoes were to be found. The evening consisted of card games and then sleep in a freezing cold hostel. Not a very good nigh's sleep, especially because of the banging headaches caused by the altitude and having to go to the bathroom in below zero temperatures, due to the fact that you pass water more quickly at higher altitudes!

Day 53: After waking up with our heads still aching we headed to the Arbol de Peidra (stone tree), a famous rock formation. We messed around on the rocks which took our breath away, because of the views and the altitude! After some group snaps including a human pyramid or two we visited the 4 highland lagoons (Honda, Canapa, Chearcota and Hedionda) and then cruised through the desert with some classic rock blasting out the the stereo! A view of the active Volcan Ollague was not possible due to cloud cover and so after a brilliant lunch we set off for Uyuni, because the flooded salt flats meant a change in route was necessary which was a shame. On the way we stopped at the 'train cemetary' where the rusted out vehicles that had been used to carry salt were laid to waste, which now acted as a playground for us travellers! After a very quick shower at the hostel, Edgar drove us to one of his friend's houses for a 3-course meal and then an early night ensued.

Day 54: We were up at 4.30am today after another terrible night's sleep, due to both altitude again and a street party a block away, in order to see the sunrise on the Salar de Uyuni from the Museo de Sal (salt museum). The view was incredible, though our feet were freezing in the flip flops that we had been advised by the company to wear! After changing into boots and eating some of Edgar's delicious pancakes for breakfast we tried some perspective shots, some of which were very successful, but some of which were not due to the water on the surface. A few hours later we set off back to Uyuni, stopping at a little market in San Cristobal on the way where I picked up some hand-knitted llama wool socks for 2 quid! After some llama steak for lunch we caught an evening bus to Potosi which was 3 hours late due to a flat tyre, and then managed to get split up from the girls, leading to us booking a hostel with Dean and Britney (also from the tour) at around 3am.

Day 55: We intended to visit the silver mines today but lack of sleep meant we didn't arise until 2.30pm! It was really weird to think we were in the highest city in the world (4070m)! After scouting several companies we booked a mine tour fro the next day with 'The Real Deal', the only company set-up and run by the miners themselves. That evening we went for a meal with Ian (19) from Chester and then a couple of beers before TV and bed.

Day 56: After another poor sleep we started the tour of the famous mines at 8.30am and after changing into mining gear (hat, head torch, overalls and boots) we went to the miner's market to buy presents for the miners (juice, coca leaves and sticks of dynamite!). After stopping at a viewpoint over the city we were taken by our guide Efrain to the refinary, where we were told how the silver zinc and lead were sperated from the waste and then sold to countires such as China and the USA. We then entered the dark, cramped tunnels, stopping at 'El Tio', the devil god that the miners worship who owns all of the silver in the Cerro Rico mountain and who is offered cigarettes, alcohol (96% - disgusting!) and even llama blood every June! We then met many of the miners who all work for themselves, selling what they find to the co-operative, some of whom were as young as 13! After climbing through shafts and scree like surfaces, regularly out of breath due to the height and heat (about 30 degrees), we left the mines where the life expectancy is around 30 due to the dust and asbestos. We then spent the afternoon visiting the Royal Mint Museum and the got on a bus to Sucre, where we were re-united with the girls. It was the most interesting day we have had yet on this trip.

Day 57: Woke up this morning feeling terrible after throwing up last night, nice I know! Stayed in bed most of the day whilst Alex explored the city with the girls. Got up for a few hours that evening then another night and surprisingly a very good night's sleep!

Day 58: Felt much better this morning, but our moods were dampened after we found out strikes meant there are no buses out of the city. No idea how long we will be here but apparently there may be buses to Cochabamba tomorrow. Went to a cool little cafe for lunch and a few mojitos and on the cards tonight! Hopefully we'll be able to leave tomorrow. Typical South America!

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