Sucre

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Due to a roadblock between Sucre and Potosi, I ended up spending four nights in Sucre, and it´s without a doubt the jewel of Bolivia. It´s wealthier, warmer. and cleaner than other places in Bolivia and its colonial architecture is beautiful. If you´re planning on taking Spanish classes or volunteering somewhere, this is the perfect place to spend two weeks.

The Casa de la Libertad is a must-see. It´s right in the main square (Plaza 25 de Mayo) and it´s only 15 BS, including a free tour in English. The artifacts are impressive, particularly for such a small place -- it has the first flag of Argentina, Bolivia´s declaration of independence, the bloody sleeve of Sucre from where he was shot in the arm, a painting of the king of Spain and his wife that the population had to pledge allegiance to, and hundreds of paintings and original Jesuit artwork. I was there a week before Bolivia´s independence day, so the courtyard was filled with schoolchildren drawing pictures with the title, ¨Cumpleanos de mi Patria.¨

There is a castle outside of the city that looks interesting as well as some day hikes through the surrounding mountains. The view from the mirador is good for a sunset drink.

The range of food choices is impressive, as plenty of gringos have settled here for obvious reasons. I highly recommend El German and the Joy Ride Cafe (just off the main square).

I stayed at a mediocre place called Hotel Cruz de Popayan. The courtyards are wonderful for reading in the sun or meeting other travelers, but the staff is moody and there are bedbugs in at least two of the rooms -- nearly everyone was bitten. There is a free breakfast -- coffee, juice, bread and a small bit of marmalade (and they act like you´re asking for their first born if you ask for more). Still, I paid 140 BS for four nights, so I can´t complain too much.

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