A wealthy town in the foothills of the High Atlas Mountains, Azilal is not just a good base for reaching M'Goun and Cascades Ouzoud; it is also a pleasant and at times surreal hideaway from the heat, the harrassment, and the rip offs. Stock up on food here for any treks, as the costs double or triple in the mountains. A pack of stray dogs in the town for some reason walks directly down the middle of the road in the evenings. People honk and make half-hearted attempts to avoid them, but many of the dogs are maimed from being hit. [View Full Entry]

---

---

Essaouira is an oasis in all the ways that Marrakech is not. The sea breeze eases the scorching heat in even the narrowest alleyways, the locals are wealthy enough that they only hassle half-heartedly, and the accomodations are top notch. Ironically, this is where myself and friends have endured some of the scourges of Morocco: bedbugs, stomach bugs, and beligerent street confrontations. But, at least we were able to retire to some relative comfort afterwards. The only complaints I can muster up about this town is that it is perhaps too perfect. The frenchman who works at our hotel des [View Full Entry]

---

---

After Marrakech, I was happy to escape to the mountains... I was intrigued about 'climbing' the tallest mountain in North Africa, though I knew I could only do it because LP describes it as more of a 'difficult hike' than a climb. I hired a taxi, along with Bryan and Kit, for the two and a half hour journey east through Asni and to Imlil. If you're headed that way, you should haggle hard and you really shouldn't pay more than 150 for a grand taxi (split among the number of people in the car) one way. Prepare for the usual [View Full Entry]

---

---

"Hello friend? Sorry? Francais? Ingles? English? How are you? Come see my shop? Why not? Sorry? Hashish? Smoke smoke? Hotel? Taxi? I practice my English?" This is one tiring city. Handling the touters is quite the challenge, but the energy and vitality is like nothing I have seen before. I enjoyed hiking through the souks, but as I was one of few tourists in the city at the end of June, going to the main square at night can only end badly. I recommend Hotel Essaouira, just off the main square. [View Full Entry]

---

---

This town didn't leave much of an impression on me, but it was a good intro to Morocco. [View Full Entry]

---

---

I arrived in Tarifa on Sunday minus my camera cord. So, photos might be difficult to post regularly, until I get home. The beach here is fabulous. Most visitors are here to windsurf or kite surf, as there is a constant breeze (called Levante when coming from the east and Poniente from the west). Africa looms across the Strait of Gibraltar, just 14KM from here. I´ve met a great group of people here and a couple of them will likely cross with me to Tangiers. [View Full Entry]

---

---

After Las Alpujarras, I took a very early bus (5:30 from Trevelez) back to Granada. At the bus station I decided to check out Cordoba for no particular reason. I like the name. It is unbelievably hot here... 100 today. I was going to choose Hostal Bagdad for accomodations (it´s like stepping into Persia: it has a wonderful patio and the atmosphere is relaxing, soft, even meditative) , but it doesn´t have air conditioning, so I opted for another clearn but flavorless HI hostal instead. Tonight is some kind of enormous all-night Flamenco festival, so that should be interesting. Tomorro [View Full Entry]

---

---

On this 22K hike, I walked from Capileira to Trevelez via Capilerilla, Pitres, Portugos, and Busquistar. I took many detours but found my way in the end. [View Full Entry]

---

---

This village isn´t technically in the Sierra Nevada; the entrance to the National Park is just above it... but for some reason it (or even Las Alpujarras) isn´t a choice on this site? After Madrid I stopped back in Granada for a night (thanks, Antonia for the room and laundry). While waiting for her to get home, I hiked around town, and had the following for 7.50 euro; a beer with jamon cerrano (ham) and bread, a rioja with bread, egg and roasted red peppers, and a rioja with a tuna sandwich. She was apologetic about getting home late, and I [View Full Entry]

---

---

I checked out of my hostel in Madrid and walked to the train station, not knowing where I´d go next. Tickets were more expensive than I´d expected, so I chose the cheapest trip -- to Toledo. I´ve come on what seems to be one of the busiest days of the year -- the Corpus Chrisi celebration (even though I thought it was on Thursday?). I am staying in a remodeled castle across the river for 13 euros, so I´m pretty content here for a night, despite it being a touristy town. I need rest after late nights in Madrid. I will [View Full Entry]

---

---