Round two of the rainforest


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South America » Bolivia » Beni Department » Rurrenabaque
November 14th 2009
Published: November 15th 2009
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The Amazon rainforest... what a beautiful place. It contains so much life, it’s impossible to ignore it. A world away from the city I live in, which is full of dead concrete, bricks, cement and poor excuses for parks. I yet again was blown away by how rich the rainforest is. This time we went a little more hardcore. Rather than pussyfooting around the jungle in a canoe or on light walks, this time we went deep into the jungle for hours on end, trekking through, following animals. Yet again I got to see my favourite critters, the monkeys. These mischievous little guys really do fascinate me. One way in which we thoroughly witnessed their mischief was when they wouldn’t sit still for a photo. They’d be still until they saw your camera come out. I’m convinced they understand what they’re doing, and loving every minute of being able to taunt us gawping tourists. We saw the same types, red howler monkeys, squirrel monkeys and capuchins, but this time, many many more. Around 20, possibly even more were lurking around our cabanas at one point, swinging happily from tree to tree, almost as if they hadn’t even noticed the crowd they’d attracted standing metres away from them.

We attempted to see more mammals by doing a 7 hour trek to a nearby clay lick. Unfortunately, this is one of the places where mammals are most vulnerable, as prying pumas, jaguars and the like also know that wild pigs, deers, and so on, go there. As you’d expect, once they hear even our quiet attempts at nearing the lick, they’re off like a shot and not to return until our scent is at a safe distance. We did however see one lone baby wild pig, his pack must have left him due to being ill or disabled according to our guide.

That leads me onto the lodge. We stayed at Chalalan eco-lodge set 6 and a half hours upriver from Rurrenabaque, which by the way, was a gruelling journey in such a shallow river, but every bit worth it for the quality of the lodge. Despite its high price tag I would still recommend everyone to go. The lodge is owned solely by the community of San Jose set in the rainforest, not a rich American or someone similar. They own and run it themselves, giving their expert knowledge as guides. Thus one hundred percent of the profits goes back into their community, as well as creating waiting and cleaning jobs for others who alternate every 3 months. It truly is a model of community tourism. If only all tourism was truly benefiting the community like Chalalan is! It is nice to know that you’re truly helping them lead a better life and protect the rainforest that they love so much as it is now their national park.

Our guide Richar was incredible, very knowledgable. He knew all the birds, mammals, insects, trees, medicinal plants and so on. We didn’t manage to catch him out once. They’re a real friendly bunch, catering to your every whim, and very sincere, not believing in the truly magnificent job they’ve managed. He told us about the many animals, trees and so on that are pretty much extinct outside of the park, but in the park they are abundant. It is so refreshing to know that conservation can exist successfully somewhere to save these beautiful creations from poachers and so on. He even calmed me down when I was attacked by a swarm of wasps... yes, not my finest moment. I managed to
Could this trunk be any bigger?Could this trunk be any bigger?Could this trunk be any bigger?

The answer is yes! In Peru we saw even bigger!
headbutt a wasp hive which was disguised by the leaves so they decided to attack the back of my neck. Of course I freaked and started crying uncontrollably, but Richar saved the day by rubbing a rainforest leaf onto my neck which took away the pain! Who needs western medicine when you’ve got plants a plenty?

Yet another of my bad moments here was my heat sickness. I have no idea why it affected me so badly, as it was similar in the Peruvian rainforest, but I didn’t feel bad at all. Here though, I could barely eat a thing and when the sun was at its highest, I was struggling to even get out of bed due to feeling weak, the migraines and the nausea. Now back in La Paz, I definitely appreciate the cooler climates more! As an English girl, barely used to sun, the rainforest really is testing. Nonetheless, I wouldn’t have taken it back as it’s definitely a place I will remember forever, and hopefully return to when I’m no longer a poor student!



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Chilling with one of the guidesChilling with one of the guides
Chilling with one of the guides

By this point I didn't care how sweaty and messy I looked!


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