Patience learnt at the Amazon and Pampas


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Published: July 5th 2009
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FairchildFairchildFairchild

our prefered mode of transport 45min instead of 20 hours by bus
26/6/09

Today we woke up at 4 am to catch our taxi to the airport for our flight at 615 am. So got up and headed out for our drive with Mr Speedy Gonzalves who has the same habit of only turning only once he is in the corner whilst speeding unnecessarily. After some small amount of berating, he magically learnt how to drive and the rest of the trip was uneventful. Once at the airport the fun startled as we soon saw that the only flight for Amazonas was leaving at 730 am not 615. The real fun however was still begin when we were informed that because there had been a cancellation the day before, our flight was changed lo 1150 am which I immediately refused to accept. The person at the counter had just begun a day that was going to be unpleasant. I tried to calm Saying that the problem was not mine and that I had a ticket for the 730 flight and was not leaving the desk until, was on the flight or I had a full refund including the taxi costs etc. she quickly decided that a refund would be easier however her luck was out as she did not have any cash and was I not having it that I must go to the office! Fortunately for both of as there were 4 no shows and I got on the plane even though It was nearly not possible as by this stage the lady realized she held the upper hand, except if I had not got on the then I would have made her day v bad, nothing else to do!
The flight was good with two Spanish Pilots who knew their stuff.

Arrived in Rurrenabaque and cheeked with a couple of agencies, got one called Mashaquip which is locally owned with the money being invested into the community. Croup consisted of 3 french one Hungarian and myself. Headed up the Beni though 2 check points and paid our park fees and arrived at our camp at 1330. Very basic but good accommodation where we had lunch and relaxed in a hammock. At about 230 we went off on a walk into the jungle.
Got on very well with laventa. The Hungarian guy which was good as my Spanish was still Very bad and big surprise our guide did not speak English?
Back at 6 for a great meal then chat till 9 when we went for a night walk along the river to see the crocodiles even saw one out of the water they are deceptively large! Up until this time I had managed to conveniently forget that tarantulas come from the Amazon, but this as to change when we stopped in a disused building and came within 2 meters of one above our heads!!

27 /06/09
Slept quite well and woke at 8, had breakfast then nothing till 10, the lack of organisation in South America is dumbfounding. Then on a walk for 3 hrs, lam starting to realize that who the amount of tourists coming into the area the wild life has long since left and although the Amazon is great, walking around seeing only the ground as you watch where you walk is a bit boring and Laventa was voicing his disappointment of rushing around doing nothing.


The French guys were unimpressed with this and so arranged for me and Laventa to have our our separate guide, which was annoying at first but afterwards we had much more fan taking photos of mushrooms! We later in the afternoon hiked to a campsite to sleep in the jungle. Arrived to a basic lean to with a plastic sheet to sleep on. Nothing special but pleasant. I had been offered a mosquito net but had one which really is for indoors as it was not good at keeping out the large spiders Lurking around so I had a fitful nights sleep from 8 pm to 8 am wondering when They were going to make their move! I think the fact I had not bathed kept them at bay as one was only spotted at the other side of the lean to. Who says bathing is good for you has not been of the Amazon.

28/6/09

For a change we ate breakfast and headed out immediately at 830 to go to the Mirador where the Parrots roost was about at 2 hr walk and saw where a young Israeli died by trying to get a good photo, he slipped and tell to his death, he was 23.
Then we hiked to the base of the Mirador for a different view. Afterwards we hilled to the river where we built a raft and headed down river to our lodge. It reminded me of Huckleberry Finn, but I don’t remember the sand flies eating them like they did to me!
After lunch we went and made some jewelry then Laventa and two of the French guys left, their three days were over I still had a day of go.


29/06/09
I did nothing all day till 1230 then took the boat back to Rurrenabaque it takes just 1 hour and the view was amazing. Went to the airport and changed my ticket as my next trip finished one day earlier than expected.
Got a motorcycle taxi around looking at what Rurrenabaque has to offer and look at diff accommodation. Went to my hostel and met an Australian Vet called Pete who was travelling round South America on a motorbike with his Para Sail attached to do some flying where possible.
Went to bed early at a but the whole town comes alive and rides their bikes till the early hours of the morning and just as it gets quite at 4am someone starts playing their stereo at hill volume. Pete says in 8 months of travelling that night was his worst, mine too.
Beer Blog-
Very poisonous snakeVery poisonous snakeVery poisonous snake

I'm sure it was a plant!
Bock a lovely rich smooth larger with a sweet flavour.Dark golden colour.A bit biased towards this as I was straight out of the jungle and very thirsty.

30/6/09
Started my Pampa tour at 930, Nice small group of 6. A Family of 4 from La Paz, myself and a Danish girl called Hanne.
First we drove for 3 hrs on an awful road where who had one puncture just at about the time wanted to go to the loo so it was not all that bad. Arrived at the boats and headed to our lodge on the river for another 3 hrs and saw loads of wildlife ie crocodiles, alligators, birds and the Pink fresh water dolphin!
Once we arrived of our lodge one quickly had a snack then headed off to see the sunset with all the other tour groups where are had a drink (beer) and played football or volleyball. Then back to lodge for dinner, very nice and off to bed Im sharing with three girls cant complain with that! Lights out at 930 when generator turned off but no sleep as dorms are only separated by a fly screen. And you can hear everyone.
Beer
Tarantula!Tarantula!Tarantula!

just above my head
Blog- Pilsner Tropical Extra -lighter beer with a fruity flavour easy on the palate and nice golden colour perfect for the pampa.
1/7/09

Got my Spanish mixed up the night before and woke up at 630 am to see sunrise only to be told I was one day too early, still got some photos of sunrise just a little annoyed because I had slept so well that night.
Left at 9 am to go and look for an Anaconda. Was told to wear Wellingtons boots and fortunately me and Hanne got the last two pairs, cos the walk was basically in a marsh land and all the other people in the group got their shoes soaked as we walked around for 2 hrs unsuccessful in finding the elusive Anaconda. I thought it would be easy to find the Worlds largest snake!
Went back to camp where I was lucky to chat to Hanne on some interesting topics on Christianity and considering she did not agree we still had a great chat. After lunch slept in the hammocks till 2 pm then went Piranha fishing which is not illegal here!
Back at 5 with about 10 fish for slow and fish, don’t think that the fish were great and agree fishing for Pirhana should be illegal, there are not many big ones around. Chatted till 11 pm then bed.

2/7/09


Up at right- time today at 630 am and off to see sunrise at el Mirador got some great pics and got some close-ups of a medium sized croc. After breakfast went to a lagoon of swim with the pink dolphins, piranha and Croc’s. I must say I did not relish the thought but after stripping down to my swimmers I finally managed to dive in and lasted about 10 min before I decided I had used up my share of good fortune. It was just as I was getting back into the boat that mg luck run out and the person taking photos of me with my camera accidentally dropped my camera into the water in the bottom of the boat and-that was scratch one camera, digitals and water don’t mix!
Back to camp for lunch and an hour trip back for Santa Rosa the initial 3 hrs to get to camp only 1 hr when not taking pictures, hope insurance pays. On route back of Rurrenabaque had another tyre blow out and the land cruiser also drank 3 litres of water, handy driving next to a swamp. I know if the vehicles were anything but Toyota or Japanese we would have to walk!
Found a nice Hostal out of tour with some great guests and had a great sleep.

3/7/09

Up early lo get plane, Hanne flying with Tam supposed lo leave at 820 mine at 950 with Amazonas, no surprise then that when I arrive at airport at 850 tam has still not arrived. My flight finally arrived at 1030 which is not so bad as I have learnt patience in my short time in South America, something I forgot after leaving Africa all those years ago!
When I got back to La Paz I was going to book my dangerous road trip with Madness for $69 but Hanne suggested I go and look at some other tour agencies where we decided both to go through a company charging $30 so was glad to do that. I also managed to get a better hostel for the same money as the one I had booked so scored twice.
Later at night I took my camera to the canon repair shop that said they would try to fix my cameral hope they are successful, because I bought a new Nikon compact and its good, but not my old good Fuji.

4/7/09
Got Picked up at postal at 7 am to go on Death road trip. A nice group of Czechs Poles and South Americans including me and Hanne from Denmark. Had a light breakfast then off to the start point at 4700m it was at least 0 degrees and I was happy to the fall protective gear supplied. We had nice Trek bikes with front rock shox on the front and disc brakes all round. Was not surprised when our guide tuned out to not speak English, Getting used to the lies, it and be difficult for me to accept someone telling me the truth?
The first half was on tarmac and it was interesting to catch cars and buses on the downhill, I guess I was at least doing 50 to 60 Kmh.
The real fun however was the dirt half of the road. Where the bikes were really hammered and l was glad to have a hard tail bike. Towards the end we took a road different to the rest of the groups which was a two track road and very challenging especially as we were tired. The whole trip was great with all groups ending at the same restaurant so I guess the best was we arrived first left first ate the same food and paid half the price. Excellent.



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LaventaLaventa
Laventa

The crazy Hungarian
ParrotParrot
Parrot

great camoflage
slothsloth
sloth

found by our boat captain tryimg to swim luckily rescued
sunset pampasunset pampa
sunset pampa

first night


6th July 2009

Thought there were no crocs in the amazon...lol Sooo jealous but sounds like you are having a great time and meeting some very nice people :D

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