Ushuaia to El Chalten via Torres del Paine

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For the last two weeks we have been in Southern Patagonia, arguably our favourite spot in South America and a glaciologists dream (Nick Rutter - you must come here). It was great to have friends Angela and Mark travelling with us for most of that time although a great shame that they were unwell for a lot of their holiday.

We met them in Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego. It is a city that prides itself on being El fin del Mundo and it certainly had an end of the world feel to it. Its bleakness is its beauty - to be experienced around the Beagle Channel, both walking in the national park and on a day cruise (with more penguins).

From there we made the long journey to Chile´s Torres del Paine - a 14 hour drive much of it on gravel roads (one chip in the windscreen caused by a passing ambulance), a bus and a boat took us to the start of the ´W´ trek. Our guidebook described this as the greatest trek in the world and for us it had been one of the most do´s ever since we began planning our trip. There is no doubt that it lived up to this billing, a four day trek passing awesome glaciers, icebergs, serene lakes, forests and stunning mountains. At times it was very hard work with two successive 25km days carrying big backpacks but all worth it. The third day was a perfect example - a long uphill slog through a blizzard to reach the most amazing view of the torres towering above a glacial lake.

Then we were back into Argentina to the Perito Merino glaciar. One of the worlds few advancing glaciars it moves forward at an incredible 1m a day. It is an awesome sight when still but even better when a loud cracking sound proceeds a large piece of ice falling off and crashing into the lake below (something that happened 3 or 4 times during our visit).

Next it was El Chalten. Argentina´s newest town was thrown up in a hurry in 1986 to claim the land before Chile could. It is a dusty windswept town with a half built wild west feel about it but it has the two things that make a place for us - great walks and great restaurants! Angela and Mark headed home from here but we stayed to explore the region and admire Cerro Fitzroy (Patagonia´s highest mountain). Our longest walk provided great views but at 30km it left us absolutely shattered and also a bit sad - a huge gust of wind took my trusty Lane Cove rugby club cap and blew it far from sight.

We are now into our last week in South America and the next few days will be mainly spent travelling, first to Santiago and then on the fight to Auckland.

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Photos

The Torres del Paine
it was hard work getting there but well worth it

Day 2 of the W
the weather wasn´t great but cleared enough for this view of the Cuernos (horns)

The path upto the Torres lookout
yes, it was practically vertical

Glaciar Piedras Blancas
I lost my cap on this walk but it was worth it to admire this view entirely on our own

Comments

[Gunga]

Great photos
I was just there and loved your pictures and descriptions. What an honor to be in that part of the world. Be sure and do the Teleferico and funicular when in Santiago. Carolyn ( Gunga)

[Rich and Zoe]

Good times...
Hello! I have just read through your previous blogs and it is so good to hear your tales! We got back to the UK from a year RTW trip in January, and did nearly exactly the same route as you, so its brilliant to hear your stories and see your photos!! Especially as I am now sat at my desk in work dreaming of this time last year! Hope you enjoyed South America - it was by far our favourite place, although Laos and Cambodia come a close second! Have fun Zoe

[Lisa]

Missing Friend - Torres del Paine/El Calafate
hi A good friend of mine, Ronan Lawlor from Ireland, is missing in southern chile/argentina. The last known whereabouts we have for him are torres del paine around Nov 18th. His rucksack was found in the America del Sur hostel in El Calafate. Ronan was due to collect his rucksack after 3 days trekking in the Torres del Paine on November 20th. If you have met Ronan on your travels or have any information please contact his family who are desperately worried at [e-mail] A website has also been setup http:www.ronanlawlor.org which is being kept uptodate with information from the local authorities as well as the Irish Embassy in Buenos Aires Many Thanks, Lisa