Gunga

So, when I was in Rome recently I spent some time talking with Joe, you might have known him as Pope Benedict XVI, but I knew him way back when he was Fr. Joseph Ratzinger. We had a real 'heart to heart' about his health, his age, and all the troubles in the current church and that he should give some serious thought to moving, gracefully, not just aside but out of the way. Thankfully, he listened. *** (of course you all know that this is just a fantasy on my part) I was pleased that shortly after I returned home on Feb. 6th came the surprising announcement that Benedict was going to retire. Say what? A Pope retire?? Why the last time that happened was 600 or so years ago! It was fun watching all ... read more

I am thankful that I grew up in a city (Boston) and learned to use the infamous 'T' at quite an early age. So tackling the bus, tram, and train systems of Rome seemed completely doable. First smart thing I did was to buy a Roma Pass for 30 euros (and worth every penny). This gets you free public transportation for three days so you don't have to mess with the machines that somehow never seem to work or else you don't have the right change. All you do is wave your card in front of the entrance machines at each train station and it reads a code and "tada!" the gates to the station open and you are in. I never even used it on the bus. I just showed the driver my card and ... read more

Having endured 13 years of parochial school I can remember how just saying the word 'Vatican' and 'the Pope' were sacred. Although I am no longer a practicing Catholic (the Pope I parted ways many years ago) being here is still holy ground for me. My B & B in on Viale Vaticano, a road that surround the Vatican. I can look out my window and see the Vatican gardens and the huge 20 foot high wall that surrounds them. It is a slightly eerie feeling. So my first stop was the Vatican Museum, which is just a short walk from my bedroom. I am going to try not to let my biases show but I have a hard time with all the 'collections for the poor' - it is called Peter's Pence-that every parish (at ... read more

With apolgies to the writer of the book about Alexander's terrible day but that was all I could think about as I went through my yucky day. First, it wasn't tragic in the sense that I didn't fall into the Bay of Naples nor did a bus I was riding in go off a cliff on the Amalfi Coast. Let me just start by saying that Sorrento is probably not a place to visit in the middle of the winter. It is a 'beach' town without a beach. Half of the hotels are closed as are most of the shops and restaurants. It rained two of the days I was there so I never got to Capri. I had chosen a B &B that had a lovey view of the Bay of Naples. Ahhh....that worked out ... read more

Sorry to inundate you with blogs but I'm not sure what my next B&B will have in the way of wi-fi or free internet so I am taking advantage of the lovely facilities of Hotel Santa Caterina while I can as I am off to Sorrento tomorrow mornng. Pompei gets all the attention but I personally liked Herculaneum much better. First, it is much smaller. I'm sure I'm not the only person who has been ruined by ruins. I am so sorry I just couldn't help that one. But, truthfully, after about twenty minutes they all pretty much begin to look the same. Pompei was a working town of about 20,000 when it was hit while Herculaneum had only about 5,000. It was a resort town for rich and famous Romans. The homes that have been ... read more

In general, Americans are a kind and generous people. So it is always a conundrum as to what to do when confronted by beggars, usually young children. But here in Southern Italy, there seems to be a plethora of young (in their 20's) African immigrants, at busy intersections, holding small plastic cups. They don't say anything just shake the cup in your direction which seems to have become the universal symbol for asking for a donation. It got me thinking about different trips I have taken and my experiences with beggars and the reactions of some of the my hosts to said beggars. While I can't remember each incident these are the ones that stand out. I'm sure many of you have had your own experiences and struggled with what to do. In many instances I ... read more

My mother's name was Katherine and here I am at the warm and welcoming Santa Caterina hotel (www.hotelsantacaterinapompei.it)- coincidence? I think not. Yesterday when I was scouting out a new place I spotted this one on my way to the ruins of Pompei and was welcomed by a vivacious and stunning young woman named- are you ready for this- 'Juicy'! Not only did she assure me the hotel had heat but she printed out the codes for their wi-fi and pointed out the computer in the lobby (which I am now using) as mine to use anytime I wanted for free. Then she showed me my future room- king size bed, huge bathroom with actual fluffly towels (and lots of them)-even little bitty ones for the bidet. I almost cried. Did I mention it was warm? ... read more

One more sweet Maxim story- as he was putting my bags into the car he spoke quietly to the driver. I had no idea what it was about since it was all in Italian. I discovered that he had mentioned to the driver my wish to see the Bay of Naples before I left the city. The area I had stayed was far away from the Bay. How, tragic, I thought to be so close and not to see that fabled vista. So off we went. Me in the back seat in awe of the interplay of traffic where motor scooters weave in and out like a swarm of deranged bumble bees. I would love to see a "run off" between scooter drivers in Italy and and those in Hanoi. Anyway, back to Angelo, my driver. ... read more

I'm going to claim jet lag or maybe just let it go as old age but I gave you an incorrect website for my sweet hotel here in Naples. The correct address is: www.lestanzedelvicere.it Thanks Jan for pointing it out. Next I want to give a 'shout out' to Francesco and Suzy at Pub il Grotto on Via Santa Teresa degli Scalzi, 88, Napoli. I pretty much fell into this place today after walking for several hours. It was only 1p.m. so the place was empty (locals start their lunch around 2 or 2:30) but he welcomed me anyway. We talked a combination of English, Spanish, and Italian. When all that failed he brought out the cook, Suzy. We were all trying to translate the word 'burro' in a chicken dish. We established it wasn't donkey. ... read more

For anyone traveling by train from Rome let me tell you that in January the station is like being on the tundra. It is cold, windy, gray, and without a chair to sit in or a warm waiting room to wait in. There were a scant few chairs against one wall that all seemed to be taken up by, um, street people. None of the fast food places or bars had a place to sit. I did see some tables upstairs which seemed inviting. There was an escalator to get up there but only stairs coming down. Lugging baggage down a flight of stairs did not seem like a good option for me so I sat next to a street person when a chair became available....when in Rome........ Like most European train stations they seem to ... read more