El Chalten - Pampas, Mountain Towers and Asado


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South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén
April 1st 2008
Published: April 14th 2008
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a taste of pampas in argentinaa taste of pampas in argentinaa taste of pampas in argentina

This is ruta 40 - the motorcycle diary territory - not much around but plains and plateaus of pampas grass
Hola chicos y chicas,

Nick writing: Nick y Rinske aqui - slowly going native. Our latest adventures have taken us along the beaten path from Torres del Paine to El Chalten and the National Park of the Glaciers.

El Chalten is a town with no ATM, limited super markets, expensive restaurants and accomodation much of it closing at this time of year.... and lots of dust. Yet it remains as one of the premier launch points for seeing some spectacular mountains, ice trekking, rock climbing, and mountaineering in Patagonia.

The pictures show you its a little like a town out of a western with dusty streets and various shops and hotels lining them. The Town is currently undergoing a renovation which will probably remove this wild west feel, but make the linings of your lungs thankfull. The weather has been typical pategonian, rain, sun wind rain sun wind rain wind rain sun wind.

Now unfortunately for much of the time period Rin was plagued by lung irritation and minor cold from all the dust and wasnt able to do the treks and ice trekking, so I was tasked with taking as many photos to show her the days trips. Luckily a small homeless kitten was able to keep her company, but while i was aching for more action, Rin was aching for less dust.

Rin here - so unfortunately my memories of el chalten are not so rosey. Camping probably wasn´t the best idea either. We really noticed how cold it has begun to get and waking up to a frost and an icy tent didn´t help the cold along either. So the inside of the tent I saw plenty of and thankfully the kitten gave me something to focus my attention on. It was so little, underfed and colder than I was looking after it for a few days became my focus! I never thought I'd do this but, after finding it one night sheltering in the vestibule of our tent, i even managed to convince nick that it should sleep the next night in the tent at our feet! We did have some extra blankets borrowed from the campamento owners, so it wasn´t directly on our sleeping bags. And boy, what a happy kitten it was!

Climbs done while here have been the mount fizt roy approach, the tumbado lookout, loma de pliegue
sunset over pampassunset over pampassunset over pampas

one of the most beautiful sunsets we have seen to date over the arid pampas plains east of the andes in argentina
del tumbado, and cerro solo glacier trek.

One thing you must try or attempt yourself is an Asado if you ever make it here. Asado - oh the lovely asado. Pategonia Lamb or Beef is simply amazing - free range and lots of fat on the sides to keep moist over an open flame grill. In the words of Ben Stiller in Starsky and Hutch "Do it.... Do It" if you get the chance.

Now our next adventures take us away from argentina for a while but we have loved the people and hospitality of the people here. Always a smile and willingness to talk and enjoy themselves with you. a cup of steaming mate, the local herbal brew is also one of those uniquely argentinan things, although you will find it elsewhere in south america.

(BTW if my capitalisation is poor in this blog, its these darn international keyboards 😉

Hasta Luego Amigos.
Nico and Rrrrrinske




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el chalten - frontier townel chalten - frontier town
el chalten - frontier town

.... and lots of dust. formerly chilean territory, now the launch point for fitzroy trekking region.
Map of El chalten Map of El chalten
Map of El chalten

To give some context of where we are, and whats around
camping in el chalten, argentinacamping in el chalten, argentina
camping in el chalten, argentina

nice, nice camping spot called el refugio en el chalten in the cerro torre and monte fitzroy region of argentina
camping in argentina = asadocamping in argentina = asado
camping in argentina = asado

the only way to cook lucious pategonia lamb and beef... its free range, comes with the fat on and seasoned with our hunger (pl from che) is muy muy lindo.
looking from tumbado miradorlooking from tumbado mirador
looking from tumbado mirador

looking across at cerro torre on the left (in cloud) and monte fitzroy
wildlife is scarcewildlife is scarce
wildlife is scarce

theres a fair bit of people traffice in this area, so not lots of wildlife, but beautiful insects birds can be seen if your quite, talk with a husky david attenbourough voice and avoid grabbing it to make it really angry.
the scale of these crags sends chillsthe scale of these crags sends chills
the scale of these crags sends chills

looking across at monte fitroy range
hmmm... beware smugness alerthmmm... beware smugness alert
hmmm... beware smugness alert

ahh.. nice way to be spending a lunch by a glacial river looking up at 3000m mountain crags in the sun.
smurf country and cerro torresmurf country and cerro torre
smurf country and cerro torre

this is the cerro torre range, cerro solo on the left and its glacier is where nick does his glacier walk. this is at sunrise. cerro = mountain peak
Ice addictionIce addiction
Ice addiction

Once you strap on some crampons, and get on that ice its pretty darn exciting, then you start going vertical with the ice axes and it a load of fun


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