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Published: January 27th 2011
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Ushuaia
This is the city on our arrival. One of the jokes about this trip was that I would go to the area that the Welsh settled in to eat tea and Welsh cakes, well....
We have been camping near to Trelew (I will write about that next, although it will be a little time disjointed that way) and at my insistence took a bus into Gaiman to see the village where the first Welsh settlers made their homes. There were people from Merthyr Tydfil (my father´s local area) on the first boat out and my goodness they must have had a hard time of settling. First of all the temperatures - 38 degrees yesterday and remember they travelled from wet Wales! They were not farmers and certainly not used to growing plants in poor soil with such high temperatures. They stayed two years in caves on te coast where Puerto Madryn now is, the remains are still there, Ten they moved inland and were helped by a lcal Indian tribe to settle in the area of Gaiman, The first house that was built in the village has an apricot tree burgeoning with fruit in the yard - can you imagine that in the Rhondda? It is so hot that walking around in the afternoon is hard work, a siesta is sensible - and this is from someone who has never taken an afternoon snooze!
There was an extremely interesting museum about the people who settled in the area, showing where the blocks of land were that they built their homes together with the names. Yet again I have to say that I should not go to these museums as I see items that were part of my life - sharpening the blades for the grass cutter that was used in hay making, the butter churn etc. We next walked through a train tunnel, saw the first post office, secondary school etc. It was all rather familiar, and then we come to my ambition to eat a Welsh cake in Patagonia. WELL!
First of all the cost was stupendous, $11 for tea and a tart that they would not even show you before ordering, so of course I got up on my high horse and got out of the tea room. Having learnt to cook Welsh cakes on a griddle with Eddie Llancaiach´s mother, this kind of pretence is a no-starter LOL! (Eddie was one of those men who made his living from farming and anything else, his home is now owned by the Welsh National trust and open to the public.) So the Welsh cakes were a no starter, but the quince membrillo is everywhere and delicious! (Don´t eat all the quince paste Harriet, I want to try some of the recipes when I get home!)
Our first camping was to be in a site called Patagonia camping, just outside Trelew. we caught the bus there and were dropped in the middle of nowhere by a gate to a lane. Luckily another lady got off the bus too and was being met by her husband, so in my very poor Spanish I asked where the camping site is. Well.... it is closed she said but her husband was the brother of the owner so they took us down there. The vehicle was a very worn out 4WD, the husband got out to shake our hands, removed the empty beer bottles from the spare seat and helped us to put our rucksacks in the back. They were very kind to do this, as the walk was at least 2km to the now non-existent site! Then the engine would not start, so out he got with a screw driver, lifted the bonnet and started the motor, we cheered and all laughed! It was slightly un-nerving to travel down a deserted lane to a place that we were told no longer existed but his brother and wife greeted us and told us that although they had closed down several years ago we were very welcome to camp there which was extremely kind of them. Tents were pitched for the first time on the continent, I lit the barbeque and boiled water whilst Veronica was taken to the local shop. This was another new experience, you don´t go into the shop but stand outside asking for things! The slight down side was the mosquito activity - my legs and arms look as if i have come down with the plague, so it is the cream and no scratching regime already for me. However, it was peaceful, friendly and we could get around by bus quite easily.
After our trip to Trelew, we were greeted by the owner, invited to join him in drinking a beer which then turned into having dinner with them. The year spent learning some Spanish has been very valuable as I was able to take part in some of the conversations and understand a lot more. We discussed everything, - family, health, the Falklands war (it was the General´s fault apparently) our travels and what Kenneth and Maria were going to do with their land and home. This is what I love about this kind of travel - meeting other ordinary people and learning about their kind of life.
We left them to go up to Puerto Madryn by bus - an hour's journey which cost about £1.50 - I can't get over the difference in attitude towards buses, here they are used and cost little, with us in the UK we use them sparingly and they cost a lot.
The camping was impossible to book so we went upmarket in a hostel which has been fun. We have met and talked to all sorts of people from all over the world, learnt and laughed a lot too.
Yesterday we walked along the bay for about 5km to a museum we were assured would be open, but no - so we walked back again, bought some Spanish cakes - churros on the beach, ate some mussels we were given and blissfully slept through the night. Today we went on a trip into the National Park along the isthmus stopping off to see penguins, seals, sea lions, alpaca and the local version of the armadillo - they are really rather lovely! The countryside is flat with the occasional gentle swell on it for a hill, at the moment it is covered with small bushes and literally seemingly just goes on for ever. It was strange to look at the oceaan and know that the nearest land was thousands of miles away, yet turn around and look at the land and it goes on for the same kind of distances.
Tomorrow we go to Tierra del Fuego - more excitement, lots of wind and lower temperatures I hope! Hasta Luego!!
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Anne Beynon
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Welshcakes
Sorry you were disappointed with your Welshcakes...........but I am envious of your trip to Patagonia. My son went there a couple of years ago, and he thought it was the most amazing experience. Take care, .......and you're welcome to Mum's recipe if you want to leave one there...........but I'm sure you would have thought of doing that already. Love, Anne X