Advertisement
Published: August 19th 2014
Kevin at work
Seahorse PowerMr Beta arrived back on 17 July yippee.
It was an effort, I worked so hard, that I walked off and left Kevin to it (Seahorse Power, Neiafu, Vava’u, Tonga – a great bloke and mechanic) once we had got the motor (Mr Beta) back into the cabin. Kevin knows what he is doing and with his offsider had all the help he needed.
I take the view that he (and other skilled tradesmen – boat builders etc) know much more about what they are doing than I and it is best to leave them to it. I asked Steve, the boatbuilder in Whangarei, and he said he met two types - those that left him to it (like me) and those that stayed and watched everything.
Kevin also checked out the installation and identified three areas that needed further work, however, the motor was in and working. It would take a few weeks to get the parts to Vava’u, so in the meantime, I just needed to stay away from following seas. My solution was to keep the motor running even when sailing thus water will not get back into the
motor.
Given the time needed to get the parts I decided it was time for a trip around the islands. Well that is after a few “doughnuts” in the harbour and a celebratory smoothy.
On 19 July, after stocking up with food and water, Hakura and I left Neiafu heading for my favourite anchorage at Ovalau Is. The wind, however, was from the northeast making the island not a good anchorage. It was such that I did not even feel like going for a swim.
Shortly after arriving, I received a phone call from 2 young Frenchmen, Victor and Pierre (the short one at just under 2 metres), who wanted to come sailing for a few days. So I decided that it would be best to head to Tapana Is, near where they were camped thereby I would get a better anchorage.
It was just over an hour of steaming into the wind to get to the shelter of Tapana Is. I have been there before with the three kiwis, however, this time I have a working motor.
As I pull into the anchorage I
get a hail from a yacht I know (an American couple on Slowridew) saying that there would be a potluck on the beach at 6 pm. This gave me a few minutes to anchor and make a disk to take in with me.
I ended up with a dish of courgettes, tomatoes and bacon, along with some tea (I had made the tea to have while cooking but did not get that far so took it with me). It was a very pleasant evening ashore, including meeting two young French guys. Yep, they were Victor and Pierre.
Next morning, I rowed across the bay to pick them up from the beach (it took two trips as they had such large packs). We then headed off to do some island exploring and snorkelling. The wind, however, had backed to the north making many of the usual sites no longer suitable. Whilst travelling, we saw several whales though we did not get very close to any of them.
We anchored on the southern side of Nuku Island. The usual anchorage is the northern side. I did not like the holding so
stayed on board and the guys went snorkelling. I had forgotten to tell them that they needed to be back well before sunset. At 16:30 I blow the foghorn to get their attention. It worked and they came swimming back, to calls of vite vite from me.
We motored back to the south side of Tapana Island. As we arrived the wind died and it was flat calm all night. A great nights sleep for me, though I am not sure how Pierre managed as he was too long for the bunks.
The lads were very willing to help, as they had sailed to Tonga from New Zealand on French yacht. One of their aims was to visit Swallow’s and Mariner’s Caves, so while off Lau Ui Is, Victor practiced going under the boat. Pierre as a former live guard was a good swimmer. When we all thought Victor would be OK, we headed off to the caves.
They had a great time in Swallow’s Cave while I motored around just off the mouth. We then headed over to Mariner’s Cave, about two kilometres away. This cave takes a bit longer
to find as the entrance is below the surface. With the help of a guidebook, we found it and in they went in.
I thought it a bit strange when Pierre was calming Victor down by saying there were no sharks around only dolphins. Then Pierre pointed to three dorsal fins just in front of the boat. They were the small spinner dolphins that hang out around the area. He must have seen the fins and was about to say “sharks” when he saw that they were dolphins. I am not sure Victor even noticed.
After a warm up dive they both disappeared into the cave. It was strange sitting on Hakura waiting for them. Last time I was here, I was diving and time was not important. At last they appeared, happy with having done the dive.
We spent the night back in Port Maurelle where lots of silliness occurred and all had a good time.
The wind had been very light all this time and we motored everywhere. The little winds made whale spotting easier, thus we saw whales, their spouts and occasional breaches frequently as
we travelled around.
We arrived back in Neiafu Harbour on the 22
nd as the lads where to catch the ferry back down to Tonga, however, while we sat at a Café they managed to get a ride to Samoa and onto Fiji. Everybody seems to be going to either Fiji or Samoa, while I stay in Vava’u waiting on engine parts; such is life.
During one of my walks around town, I came upon the Vava’u Environment Protection Association (VEPA). They were surviving yachties to see what value the marine ecosystems had as part of their visit to Tonga. Well, I did agree to answer the questionary. Surprised are you? And you might also be surprised that I had lots to say on this issue.
The most surprising thing about my visit with VEPA was that I found out an old mate of mine, Mike Donoghue, was in town. He was hosting a workshop on whale strandings and disentanglement of whales over the weekend and next week. What a small world, A.
I wonder off to a café for lunch and only noticed the woman in the next
table because she was sitting where I liked to site, however, I could get at the power point from my table so all was well. As I sat there eating lunch and being on the web, this guy walked in and started talking to the woman. I looked up and said “Hi Mike”. He casually looked at me and said “Hi Doug”. He did know I was here as he had already seen VEPA.
Anyway, we had a great reunion and laughed at meeting in such an out of the way place. He talked about the workshops and invited me to come along. I had already agreed to take a couple out for the weekend but would be available on the Monday, if that was of use to Mike. It was, so I had a booking to attend a workshop on whale strandings, the first in 15 years.
The couple I was taking out were Dr Geoff and Jo Taylor from Western Australia. Geoff was helping the local GP out for a few months while she had a baby. He was also the guy who undertook the original study of whale sharks of Western
Australia that lead to the whale shark diving industry of today. Geoff had that week given a talk on this early research and showed part of a National Geographic documentary that was made about the work. A very interesting talk. It was extra fun watching the footage from the 90s while siting next to his wife Jo, who also appeared in the film.
Our plan was to go out Saturday morning and back Sunday as Geoff had surgery on Monday. The weather was fine, though the wind was up and from the south. This again meant many of the usual good anchorages were not as comfortable as under the normal southeast trade winds. Another effect was the air temperature was down a bit, thus people where even wearing light jumpers, not me though.
We sailed out towards Hunga Is. “There she blows” was the cry and we had a humpback whale off the port bow (the verst majority of the whales around Tonga are humpbacks, though they did have a minke whale stay around a dive boat for several hours a few weeks ago). We did what all yachts do when whales are seen
Lua ui island
The small islands of Vava'u – furl the headsail and change course. A clear sign to any whale watching boats around. One arrived very quickly and we all sat there watching for the whale. It had disappeared, as they can do. So after a few minutes we headed off.
A few minutes later we noticed that the whale was just behind us to port. It was gaining on us and eventually passed us about 100 meters to port. Such is a typical sailing encounter with a whale around Vava’u.
As we came around into the main channel I noticed that off to starboard the view had gone white – was it just rain or was there lots of wind as well? I have learnt that when you have such thoughts you act on them rather than take the time to reconsider the issue further. We turned around. Actually it was just rain but with a full main I did not wish to push it.
We were heading towards Ovalau Is and now had to take the inside route which meant tacking between some islands. This was no problem with crew (and the motor on as well).
We finally made it to an anchorage off Ovaka Island but could not get any decent holding so headed over to Ovalau Is. This anchorage was very exposed to the southerly. So much so that while Geoff and Jo when snorkelling I just stayed on Hakura. I decided that we would not get any sleep there so headed off to Vaka’eita Is, which is a few miles to the northwest. This is a great anchorage for winds from northeast through south around to westerlies. We motor sailed the few miles and found the bay to be very calm. Superb for a good night sleep I here you say.
Nope was the answer next morning, at least for the Cap’n. While Hakura only moved a little the anchor chain seemed to give a loud rattle occassionally, just enough to wake me up.
Geoff was up early and had dived the local bombies. He reported that there was not much to be seen. We now planned to head over closer to the coral garden but the temperature alarm on the motor was starting to go off, albeit very softly. On checking I worked out it was
water being flicked up from the bilge onto the motor and shorting out the alarm. After emptying the bilge the alarm stopped. Even so, I was not happy to be doing lots of motoring so we headed to Port Maurelle, which was on the way back towards Neiafu, our final destination for the day.
We had a good afternoon snorkelling in Port Maurelle. I have really enjoyed my snorkelling here. I have seen my first tropical crayfish since Northwest Island Australia in 1979, first ever mantis shrimp and lionfish. There are also heaps of clown fish and many other fish. I have even seen a couple of eating size groupers, which I told to bugger off in case somebody with a spear gun was around. Overall, however, the fish numbers and sizes are well down on what I would expect for a healthy reef system, plus no sharks at all. The local snorkel operator thought that they were most likely taken for food during the Wesley Church Conference and the following King’s birthday cerebrations.
On the way back into Neiafu, the motor worked perfectly and my diagnosis appears to be correct. We arrived back
in Neiafu and headed into the Aquarium Café for dinner. So ended another great week out, even if the weather was not as helpful as we would have liked.
Came Monday it was time for the workshops. I was trying to be laid back and cool about being at my first stranding workshop in 15 years. First job was to find where it was being held. I was looking for the Post Office, which I had never seen. Thinking like a kiwi, the post office will be obvious, right. I asked a couple of locals and ended up not finding it. I walked about a kiometre out of town feeling that I had missed it. I asked a lad sweeping the street and he pointed back into town. I had the feeling that in Whangarei I would be supporting him. In the end he was giving me the right directions, I was not able to understand him.
I have found a fundamental true of the universe – when asking directions, ask somebody in a car because there is a good chance they will drive you there. This is what happened.
I
Jo and Cap'n
(c) Geoff Taylor was only half an hour late but oh well it is Tonga.
My first contribution was my party stopper – Hands up those who have been knocked out by a whale. I am usually the only one with a hand up.
This goes back to a whale stranding in NSW in the early 80s. It was a young minke whale that was badly underfed and close to death. You can tell a marine mammal is underfed when you can see its neck and shoulders (see the leopard seal in “Happy Feet”).
I decided to do a check of the whale while others were holding it quite. I walked into the water and checked the underside of its tail with my fingers. The next thing I remember was lying in the water looking up at the sky. I assume that the whale flicked its tail and I went flying backwards. As I can’t remember the tail moving or me going backwards I think I was knocked out for a few seconds. Nobody noticed this happening. The whale died the next day.
This is one of my three examples of
how dangerous strandings can be. The other two are a woman was bitten by a pilot whale resulting in her arm being broken and the smell of rotten whale stays under your fingernails for a long time so even sandwiches not taste good.
So started my introduction to Pacific strandings workshops. I think I was helpful over the next few days with my brand of practical stranding science and management.
Overall it was great fun and I did enjoy myself.
On the 30
th, as there was bad weather coming, mainly strong winds with some rain, I decided to motor sail around to Port Maurelle. As I passed Swallow’s Cave I could see a whale watch boat sitting in the middle of the bay with what looked like the tips of a whale’s tail sticking out of the water. The whale did not move for a long time, then I noticed a small whale surfacing next to it. It was a mother and calf humpback whale.
As usual, Port Maurelle was really comfortable in strong winds and it was a good stay. I returned to Neiafu on 3
rd in
Port Maurelle
(c) Geoff Taylor time to be pickup by Geoff and Jo to go to a Tongan feast. It was a great experience and good people. Almost got two crew for Fiji, but they decided to stay in Vava’u.
The next big event was the final fixing of the motor, which occurred on 6August. Unfortunately, the right bracket that held the compressor had broken and there appeared to be a problem with the clutch. These issues resulted in Kevin removed the compressor, so I now have a fully working engine and no fridge or freezer. Not the first time I have cruised in the tropics without them.
After all the work on Hakura, I headed out for Ovalau Is on the 9th. It was a simple sail and we were anchored in the shelter of the island by 2 pm. The wind was strong from the east making it a bit lumpy, though not too bad. At 4 am I was woken by the combination of the wind and heavy rain. I was unable to get back to sleep so at 9am I decided to head back to Port Maurelle as the wind and rain appeared to have
Port Maurelle
(c) Geoff Taylor set in for a couple of days.
Motor sailed to Port Maurelle at 9 15, a run of 5 nm. Dropped the anchor and I was glade Hakura is not moving so much. A quite day was had by all on board listening to Terry Pratchett stories.
Next morning while doing the dishes, I heard splashing just alongside. I went and looked, finding some predatory fish were feeding on the small baitfish hiding against Hakura. I think the predators were tuna, whatever they where, they were fast. They would swim around under Hakura a few times at a steady pace then they would take off. There would be lots of activity for a few seconds followed by a calm period of about a minute then it would start all over again.
The noddy terns seem to know what was going on as they would sit on EII (and leave their calling card) then just as the tuna started to get active the birds would start flying around to get at any leftovers. All in all, a very active and deadly morning’s work. It only stopped when I moved Hakura from anchor
to one of the moorings.
This in itself had its own drama. The anchor winch was making hard work of pulling up the anchor and I had to clear the chain several times. Those who have sailed with me will, I hope, remember me telling them about keeping your fingers (especially your thumbs) out of the way. Well, this time I was not as careful as I should have been and oops. The left thump was not too sore and still works.
As the anchor came to the surface, I could see the problem. A bloody great coral rock was stuck on it. Well, I was now floating off, the rock would just had to wait till I had picked up the mooring. Once that was done, I got in EII and pulled myself up to the anchor and, with the help of a rope, was able to quickly dislodge the rock.
It had been raining for the past 2 days, which the islands needed, but I could have done without it. Today the cloud appears to have begun to lift and I have been able to go swimming and snorkelling.
I will return to Neiafu this arvo as Dr Geoff is giving another talk on whale sharks off Western Australia. I am the head of his support team (hecklers is another name for us).
One of the side effects from my involvement in the workshops has been that many of the local palangi (white fellas) have heard about what I use to do, such that I have been asked to give a talk. Well, I have agreed and it will be called “35 years in Marine Conservation; highlights and lessons”. I will let you know how it goes.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.147s; Tpl: 0.015s; cc: 11; qc: 57; dbt: 0.0639s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 2;
; mem: 1.2mb
Adam and Anna
non-member comment
Hey Doug, great to hear the engine is back in and you're finally getting to freely explore Vava'u. When are you planning to head to Fiji to meet Lorraine? If your Marine Conservation talks take off you might be stuck for a little while longer! Best of luck, Ads and Anna.