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Published: July 16th 2006
19th June 2006
Have just read over our Australian log and feel we missed out a lot. It would seem the “catch up” caught up with us.
Our visit to Upwey and lunch with Edith and her family was lovely. We recognised one another immediately despite the thirty year gap. It was great for me to meet her family. Can’t believe I’d never met Graham. Like we said the views and countryside were stunning. We would have loved to have spent more time with them.
The Whitsundays were truly beautiful, the sea an azure blue and the sand so white it dazzled. (Amazing how casual one can become). Snorkelling in the Great Barrier Reef was incredible. What a privilege to be able to see and touch giant turtles, nemos, Maori Wrasse…Katie is fast becoming an expert on sea life and loved the snorkelling once she realised it was safe. Ever the cautious one…quite right too.
Incidentally, we met a woman at the airport at Cairns and reiterated our notion for strange smells and foreign languages. Her instant response was to tell us she could easily provide that for us here in Cairns…we’d been looking in the wrong places!!.... On to Sydney……
10th June - 15th June 06
Sydney is fabulous. We stayed at Y on Hyde Park. Our ‘suite’ felt like it had been designed for a hobbit but the hotel is right in the centre. Bright, sunny, autumn weather enhanced things for us cause we could walk everywhere without too much effort. We packed in loads... Hugh climbed the bridge, watched the first Aussie world cup game in Chinatown(MJ drew the short straw), we hung out at the Opera House, galleries and Darling Harbour, toured the Botanic Gardens and enjoyed the pleasure of water taxis and ferries. What a place.
I had a weird experience on the wee train at the Botanics. I got chatting to the woman sharing my bench and it turned out that her sister, Alison, was in my class at primary school. She left in P3 but I remembered her. How spooky is that!! We exchanged e mail addresses and agreed we’d keep in touch.
We’d hoped to catch up with folk I knew from home but wasn’t to be. We did have dinner with Chrissie. She’s in Sydney doing part of her degree in law and loves it. It was great to see her.
15th
June - 26th June
An early start and we leave Sydney, an inspiring and fun city. Quick flight across the Tasmin Sea and we’re in Christchurch.
After a bit of delay at the airport we head in to the town. Christchurch is a bit of a change after Sydney. A kind of rural feel to it despite being the largest city in South Island, more country market than stock exchange. It’s easy to be here, all very familiar and easy going.
We’re off to Wanaka to see Hugh’s nephew, David and Carol. Undeterred by the largest snowstorms for years we head for the hills and spend our 2nd night in Fairlie in what appears to be the last saloon in town. The locals are resident in the bar stranded, they claim, due to roads closed by the three feet of snow.
The hotel has the feel of having once been pretty grand but sadly now pretty faded. Hotel California springs to mind with a dab of Deliverance just for good measure. After a fun time with some great folk...most with Scottish or Irish backgrounds. we three piled into one bed for warmth only to be woken early by a teeny
woman asking if she could strip the bed…we were the only residents but she looked awfy busy…so we stood obediently watching her go about her business. Having spent the morning watching helicopters bringing in stranded residents we leave Fairlie.
We begin our journey to Wanaka, past Lake Tekapo with the bluest turquoise water ever seen and scenery of snow capped mountains that leave you speechless. It’s certainly living up to reputation. As does Wanaka. It’s quiet and serene at the moment because the ski season hasn’t yet begun. . Clearly once a quiet alternative to Queenstown it seems it too is expanding and has a large selection of daft activities for the buzz junkies. It is a town of two cultures. A resident population and the young casual workers/snowboard junkies. Hugh dead keen to get into things. MJ opting more for the hot spas with fizzy wine…well done David and Carol...a fine choice. We left Wanaka and headed south to Queenstown and Hugh relives his Awesome Foursome days…in his mind only I hasten to add although we did have the most amazing flight to Milford Sound and an exhilarating jet boat ride. Katie non committal about both, commenting later in
the day that she prefers zoos!!
Back to Wanaka and another couple of lovely days with Carol and David, a quick coffee with Hugh, Hamish’s charming father and his dog, Sam, we set off. Carol has given us her Lonely Planet Guide to N.Z. Hello! It’s as if a light has been switched on. It is so easy. No longer do we need to stumble about, trusting to instinct. And guess what…we’ve left our guide to South America at home. Duh!
When it comes to scenery the wow factor is pretty high right enough. Winding our way up the west coast, we end up in Hanmer Springs having passed through many familiar place names (Haast, Fox Glacier, Franz Josef Glacier). We decide we’ll stay a couple of nights. It’s a dream here. Hot spring pools set below ski slopes….a great experience. We spend a morning building a snow shack/igloo under direction then head for the pools. I sat for a while watching as a few over 70’s arrive for an afternoon chatting while relaxing in the hot springs. They looked so happy. So are we. We love the pace of life here and the lack of decisions required.
At this
point, those who know MJ will be amazed to know that until NZ we hadn’t lost anything…now begins the catalogue of left behind and lost items. We have retrieved in the past 10 days a handbag, duty free gin and vodka, a mobile phone, a purse and lost the other mobile. We’re becoming a bit of a joke amongst those we stay with as our parcels are arriving ahead of us!! Have to take my hat of to the New Zealanders
Though. Every item was found and returned to us. So honest and kind. No fuss either.
Chilled out and well content we make our way to Blenheim and after negotiating the cheapest rental ever we fly over to Wellington. Not without an unusual encounter with a well dressed lady on the plane who now lives in Taupo but was originally from Kirkcudbright and knew MJ’s relatives and family friends…another contact for us.
26th June - 16th July 2006
Wellington is wet and windy so we spend the evening at the movies and have an early night. Next day, we pick up our ultra cheap rental car (£7.50/day including insurance)…it’s no limousine but it’ll do us fine and head
to Te Papa, the National Museum. It’s an incredible place. So much so that we decide to stay an extra night and go back. Best museum so far!!
After a frustrating time trying to locate MJ’s late uncle’s house and neighbours we chat to the local hairdresser who tells us the house is sold and the neighbour moved. Referred to Uncle Ronnie as a real old character. Open to interpretation, we know!
We’re off to stay with Hamish and Anna in Hastings. We drove direct stopping briefly at a bird sanctuary at Mt Bruce. Arrive at Bridge Pa to a warm welcome and roaring log fire. Katie disappeared with Madeleine to play, all is well.
28th June - 6th July 06
We planned to stay for the weekend but stayed for 8 days. It’s a wonderful spot. Amazing views and such hospitable hosts. We were made to feel so at home it was impossible to leave.
Hastings and Napier have an amazing Art Deco history having been rebuilt in the 1930’s after an earthquake. There are many fantastic buildings to see. Previously considered to be poor growing ground (once a large riverbed) an innovative winegrower introduced vineyards into the Hawkes
Bay area. The rest is history and we are treated to samples of just how good the wine is. The rolling hills surrounding the farm are reminiscent of home. The climate is the give away. Its mid winter and we’re in shirtsleeves.
We spend an evening with Denise and her family at her home in Napier. She has 6 yr old twins. It was good to see her and meet Robin and the girls. Naturally charming and welcoming.
Katie spent the week playing on the trampoline, dressing up, doing magic shows and just having fun. So did the adults.
After a week of scrumptious, homemade food, hot spas, a trip to the hairdresser (and a haircut for Hugh by world class barber, Anna), a day at Marine World and the Aquarium, a flight round Ngauruhoe and, a few pints out, an entertaining night at Anna’s sister and husband’s restaurant (they need us to eat food prepared for photographs. Melt in your mouth stuff), we really do have to leave.
Ah, but before we do, we head to Anna’s family home to see her mother, Sonia. She and Hugh have met at the Black Isle show. She is President of the
N.Z. MacKenzie Clan Society. (I hope this is nearly right). An expert genealogist, she has a copy of the family tree written on the hall wall. It reveals we are in the company of royalty as she is directly related to our own Mary, Queen of Scots! Impressive stuff.
In to Napier, a quick game of crazy golf won with style by the charming Callum. Anna and Hamish have organised a babysitter and we have a night out. Wholly enjoyable it was too.
In the morning we wake to find the weather has changed. The rain is pelting down so it’s agreed we need to head off. A week of great hilarity and story telling makes leaving sad so with lumps in our throats we bid the Ross/MacKenzie clan a fond farewell. We’re on the road again.
6th July - 9th July 06
By early afternoon we arrive in Lake Taupo. Very lovely we’re told but we can’t see it. The clouds are very low. Its miserable weather and we decide to head on to Rotorua.
It’s smelly in Rotorua, like rotten eggs, due to the sulphur pools and geysers. Katie a bit freaked by the idea of steam spurting
out the ground.
There is a classic car convention on and we’re lucky to get anywhere to stay. There are some amazing cars around. Zephirs, Cadillacs, 50’s Ford pick ups, Holdens…cool cars.
We spend three days in Rotorua doing touristy things…hurtling down hills in wee go carts, riding a gondola, extreme flying (are we mad!), hanging out in town, visiting the lion farm and spending an evening at the circus (Katie now training to be an acrobat). Our motel unit has a private outdoor spa so a lot of time is spent in it. Funny how uncool these things are at home but how appealing they seem here. We’re very clean people these days.
9th July-11th July 06
And we’re off to Auckland to stay a day or two with Jill and Brian. They emigrated here 11 years ago. What can we say? Yet more wonderful hospitality. Jill and I try to phone my sister, Susan. She’s not home. A text reveals she’s in Sardinia with her daughters. Italy has won the World Cup so it’s party time with them.
Jill has a fan within hours of waking. She’s offered to take Katie horse riding on Fiona’s pony. What
a treat! A day working with horses ending with a bareback stroll back to the field. Katie is smitten.
After a morning on the beach and at the play park, we’re off again. We’re perturbed that we haven’t seen anything of Auckland .We’ve run out of time and we want to tour the northland before we head to South America. We’ll be back in Auckland for the weekend so hope to check ot out then.
11th July - 14th July 06
First night is spent in a dark forest farm cottage that hasn’t been slept in for a few months. The Northland tourist accommodation is either closed for the winter or full. The owners are away sorting out farrowing sow so the kids sort us out with bedding and milk. We keep company with the odd dead cockroach but the place is warm and comfy.
An early start and we’re off to see the Giant Kauri trees having visited the most informative and innovative museum about them. Following good, local advice, we head for a forest walk rather than just the big tree stuff. What, you may ask, is so great about the Kauri tree. Well, I’ll tell you,
some of these trees are tens of thousands of years old and they’re really chunky! They make us feel humble somehow. Anyway, having checked out the old boys, we’re on the road again. We eat tasty fish and chips on a beach before heading to the Bay of Islands. Speaking of which, the seafood here is fabulous. Always fresh, varied textures and tastes and plentiful.
On arrival at the Bay of Islands, we decide to keep going and end up in Cable Bay. We have come up trumps big style. A beach apartment with truly fabulous views, good weather, a play park where Katie cracks the monkey bars (not literally of course but she’s been working at it for a while), extremely hospitable landlords and we can have the place for two nights. What a happy team we are. We are going to chill and enjoy the seaside for a day or two before South America. Hugh delighted to be offered freshly caught mussels for tea. A few wee tipples with good company and it’s off to bed.
We wake to torrential rain. Never mind. Our veranda is waterproof and the waves are crashing on the beach.
Off we go
to a museum and we discover this is where the Rainbow Warrior was blown up. Our sympathy for Zidane wanes on being reminded of the outrageously bad behaviour of the French government in the affair.
By lunchtime it’s sunny so we descend on Ninety Mile beach (we’re told it’s only 70 miles long but even so that’s a very, very long stretch of sand). Land speed records are broken here!
An afternoon spent playing in rock pools that actually have fish, crabs, anemones and starfish in them. The rivers and streams in N.Z. are so clear. We surmise this is due to a small population and the remoteness. No human waste to bung up the system. What odd conversations we’re having these days.
We head back to our pad in time to enjoy a sunset on an equal with home. New Zealand has been a great surprise to me. Lots of contrast. Straight forward, nae, blunt, folk and beautiful scenery. Have enjoyed our lightening tour.
And we haven’t lost anything for five days….maybe our luck is turning.
Thought for the Day.
.
‘It’s a funny thing” Jean said. “You go to a new country and you expect everything
to be different, and then you find that there’s such a lot that stays the same’ A Town called Alice, 1950 (N.Shute)
The politics here and in Australia are so similar to home. The papers are filled with complaint after complaint about education, welfare, crime, health, corrupt government etc. Sound familiar? At least NewZealand opted out of the Iraq War. South America might prove us wrong but I doubt it.
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