Gill Goes.... Trekking the Bibbulmun Track... Northcliffe


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Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Pemberton
June 9th 2016
Published: January 20th 2019
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Day 36

Schafer Shelter to Northcliffe

14.5 km

This would have to the most amazing place to wake up so far- the most stunning sunrise over the dam, two distinct colour schemes within ten minutes. As you can see for the multiple pics, I was impressed. In no hurry to leave today as it's an incredibly short 14 and a bit kms into the next track town- Northcliffe. I feel very energised today even knowing another town is ahead and it's been a short little section from Pemberton- maybe it's the sunrise effect. So, having dawdled this morning it has been a good dawdle and I finally set off at 09:00.

A lot of mixed terrain today, lots of flat as well as some of the more difficult slippy stuff. The track is very well cleared from the shelter and after half an hour I reach sandy open plain and Lane poole Rd. In kicks the jarrah forest and the return of the grass trees. Lots of flora- grevillea and orange watsonia (weed). Take first little break after only 5.6km- there's a little footbridge with a kangaroo bang in the middle. It doesn't hang around to watch me eat fruit cake and drink coffee. Next change of scenery emerges with farmland- green on one side and fern on the other side of the track. Reach the cow yards and a length of tape across the land- I think they use it to herd the cattle into different areas. Some pretty grassy hay bale dot the landscape. More cow paddocks ahead but this time complete with cows. Take lots of cow pics and as the rain sets back in I take shelter under a tree near the cows. Within minutes the cows have overcome their initial wariness and gathered around me- a very "baa-ram-ewe" moment. Pretty cool!

Just past this at Smith Road is a dairy shed and some old ramshackle houses. Venture closer to the old house- a photographic treasure, very dilapidated and maybe last inhabited by squatter/s- lots of old food packets, clothes and kitchen stuff lying around. From here the directions about tracks and turns became slightly confusing but amazingly I found myself on the right one. Passed 3 abandoned cars and more kangaroos and the Gardner River.

Second amazing sight of the day- The Gardner Bridge- just perfect. The drizzle stops and the light on the mossy covered trees, rocks and bridge is absolutely perfect. Looked like a Lord of the Rings set. Really perfect spot for yet another break and an early lunch. The outskirts of Northcliffe are close by and there's evidence of an old fire- the bush is regenerating nicely. The town dam and Acacia Picnic spot with shelters/BBQ, etc are at the 13km mark. A superb new long bridge/boardwalk has me in to Northcliffe at 1:20. Four hours and 20 mins for a short, relatively easy walk- I think that shows what an enjoyable section it was to walk- lots of variety. One of my very favourite days actually.

Picked up my resupply box and go over to the Northcliffe Hotel- the rooms are the cheapest that I can find here for someone without transport. There is another motel but it's full with casual workers and there's a farmstay a few kms out of town, but I am still keen for my own company. Check out the hotel rooms- bleh.. Cold and mouldy. The onsite motel has rooms available so they show me those- perfect- very big, great bathroom, reverse cycle aircon and includes breaky- decide to splurge at $110/night. Go get a coffee at the bar and chat with a couple of dairy farmers then wander up to the Whole Foods Co-Op and meet Wendy Nelson (Bibb Track Veteran). Finally head back to the motel at 3pm to have a very long, hot shower and wash my gear, cranking up the heater in the room to get it dried. Open my resupply box and OMG it is going to be a very heavy pack that I set off with tomorrow!

Spend my evening in the pub's dining room eating steak and chips and salad and dessert and a glass of wine (2 actually). Stuffed! A continental breakfast for tomorrow has been dropped to my room- little cereal box, package of real (!!!!) milk, 2 slices of bread, butter, jam, vegemite (yay!!!!), marmalade, juice and there's more- someone else's leftover juices/bread and condiments in the fridge too. Bonus!

REALLY looking forward to the next section now. Hoping for 7 solo nights if I am being honest, I mean, if there are others that's ok too- I do enjoy meeting people, BUT I'm really enjoying this time alone. Also REALLY looking forward to having a long stretch of walking and being out of range (Optus AND Telstra!).



Impressions of the town of Northcliffe- It's a small, compact country town with a strong sense of history. For a BT hiker there is everything you need- post office/newsagent, cafe, shop and pub but an overnighter is enough. As someone visiting the region with a car have a look at this link- lots of great information about the town and surrounds

http://www.northcliffe.org.au/where_we_live.html


Body assessment-Really good- feeling physically and mentally great. My feet are great and my pack feels like an extension of me.

Total people seen for the day - zero until Northcliffe then town amount. Two other E2E hikers staying at the hotel overnight, I met them as I was going to my spacious, warm room.

Leftovers from Pemberton Resupply Box- lots- 3 packs trail mix, 2 museli bars, 2 soups, 3 packs crackers. Create a hiker box which I leave at the Visitors Centre and drop it off with all of my Moroccan beef meals (OMG, when will they end?), shampoo, conditioner, soap, mini dental floss, trail mix, cereal and leftover gas. Add to my new stash- a couple of apples and wedge of hard cheese from the Co-Op (thank you Wendy)


Additional photos below
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Grass Tree and DroseraGrass Tree and Drosera
Grass Tree and Drosera

The Drosera (Sun Dew) are fascinating carnivore plants

Coffee TimeCoffee Time
Coffee Time

My vac sealed fruit cake was a winner


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