Margaret River – Cows, Caves, Cabernet and Rain

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The Margaret River region is very beautiful and obviously flush with cash. It is unbelievably lush with a mix of tall densely wooded forests, beautifully manicured vineyards and grassy paddocks filled with dairy cattle. Below the ground is equally stunning with approximately 200 caves, only a small number of which are open to the public.

We located ourselves in a caravan park some 17 kilometres out of town. This proved to be quite central to our activities. Set on a farm, we were entertained by a variety of animals, some of which proved to be more friendly than others as Greg found out. Just ask the pig.

There is lots to entertain visitors. Wineries, beer and cider breweries, several chocolate factories, several cheese factories and an icecreamery all had tastings and sales. Mazes, mountain bike and bush walking trails, caving and surfing were options for those wishing to be physical. Trendy shops cafes, restaurants and historical buildings and tours for those wishing to hang out in town.

Naturally wine tasting featured early in our activities. We were gob-smacked by the size of many of the wine tasting venues, most with an eatery attached and a sales area for local produce, some their own, some from other producers. All very expensive but beautifully presented. The Cabernet Sauvignons were the standout variety for this region, but the Sav Blancs were also excellent. Our travelling wine supply has been replenished.

We visited a silk farm which proved to be very interesting. It is the only farm of its type in Australia. They breed their own silk worms, sending the chrysalises to Cambodia where a group of farmers complete the silk production and turn it into clothes, scarves and other products that are bought by the Australian breeders who then sell them to the public. It sounded very much like this was a symbiotic relationship and a form of aid for the Cambodian farmers. The owners had lived in Cambodia for over a decade. Having plenty of money they decided to try a business that would be mutually beneficial. They did say that the only money they make themselves at the moment is from the mulberry products that are a by-product of feeding the silkworms. Their attached eatery will be opening soon which will also bring in money for them.

Like many other venues in the area, the chocolate factory we visited was huge and the products expensive. The coffee was nice though.

We embarked on a walking trail near the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse only to see a rainstorm approaching across the sea. When it arrived we were forced to hunker down into a bush and under our small umbrella. This turned out to be surprisingly effective and a lot of fun.

Finally we found a country bakery in Cowaramup with sticky buns. The town was adorned with many model cows. Perhaps a little over the top, but quite cute and quite realistic. Witchcliff on the other hand attempting something similar with witch models may have offended and deterred rather than attracted visitors.

Day 2 was Cave Day. We visited 3 caves, all run by the same organisation, all very different but all very beautiful and awe inspiring in their own way. Mammoth Cave was a self-guided tour with audio sets providing the information. This cave was basically one big chamber in which they had built a boardwalk. Some steps lead you up and down to see the various cave formations. It was somewhat unnerving to discover at the end of the tour that you came out on the opposite side of the road that you entered the cave. This was the road you had just driven on.

Next up was Lake Cave. This was 55 metres below ground level with lots of steps firstly to descend and later to ascend. You got a good workout on this tour. As the name suggests, this cave has a lake. As the rain fall in the area has decreased by 15% over the last decade the lake has also dropped in level. Concerned that this will significantly impact a range of rare and endangered creatures living in the cave’s lake, a remediation programme has been embarked upon in which they feed a small amount of rain water into the lake system. The main feature of this cave was the reflection of a platform suspended by two columns above the water.

Jewel Cave was again well below ground level so there were lots more steps, only this time there were narrow corridors as well. By this time we had heard a similar spiel in all the caves so it was becoming a bit ho-hum.

Glad we didn’t opt for the Lighthouse tour as well that day because it would have just meant more steps!

We continued to be awed by tall trees with the Karri and Marri tree forests, This obviously was not going to be the last time we saw big trees in this area.

As we left the Margaret River region the rain which had been fairly persistent over the last few days finally began to ease.

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