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Published: August 14th 2009
31st July - 11th August
Once again with acknowledgment of input both of text and photos from Kerry and Steve Waking early with the symphony of birds in the camp grounds Kerry and Judy walked, we showered washed clothes and had decamped soon after 8am, much earlier than planned. This gave us time to replenish supplies in Coles before we returned and Steve hitched up the camper trailer while the girls collected the washing all before check out time. We later found that Kerry had left some of her washing as other people had put theirs around hers and she missed a row of washing.
Our lunch stop was at the Emma Gorge picnic area. Nearby we also purchased our Wilderness passes which enabled us to be on the El Questro property for the next 7 days. Emma Gorge took us 2 hours for the return trip which included a swim in the icy waters at Emma Falls. Luckily we found a thermal spring to the right of the pool where we were able to luxuriate in the warm water.
From here we set off for the El Questro township, stopping on the way to help someone
in a hire car who couldn’t find his jack to change his flat tyre. El Questro township, mainly consisted of a shop and camping ground. The camping ground was well grassed and sloped toward the Pentacost River. We chose one of the grassy, flat sites at the top as most of the better spots were taken by this time (late afternoon).
We’d been told to arrive at Zebedee Springs before 8am and we arrived by 7.30am before it became too busy. The trail consisted of a rocky creek trek under a canopy of livistona palms and ferns. We found our own private pool and laid back in the warm waters. From here we drove into El Questro Gorge. This time we encountered huge boulders which we had to scramble over until we reached the halfway pool. We would need to traverse this in waist deep water and clamber over a huge boulder to go any further. Instead we were content to sit back and watch a young guy take the plunge.
After a lazy afternoon we drove to Chamberlain Gorge where we had a snapshot of the 150km Chamberlain River that winds most of its way through steep valleys
and the spectacular Elgee Cliffs, making it Kimberley’s longest gorge. After that we all piled into Steve’s car for the rough ride up to Branco’s Lookout in time for sunset. Stupendous views of the surrounding river valleys were our reward.
After our simple dinner of Irish stew back at camp we joined other ELQ guests around a balzing campfire to enjoy the eclectic music of Chris Mathews. At 8pm Buddy Tyson, a whipcracker, took centre stage. This was a bit of a fizzog as he attempted to whip a burning paper from the young Manchester volunteer only to accidentally whip her hand with the backlash. The show terminated at this point and the poor young lady was bought off with several Bundies.
After another early start we stopped in at Home Valley Station which was the resort where the “Australia” cast were accommodated. It was very upmarket and verdant. We were pleasantly surprised at the condition of the Gibb River Road as up to now it has been a decent gravel road with river crossings and steep hills bituminised.
We continued on and stopped for a late lunch at Durack River, finding some lovely shady spots on sand
of the north western side we decided it would be a great place to stay for a couple of nights.
The afternoon and following day were spent in the halcyon setting of the dry river bed amongst the Melaleucas next to the remaining water. Bird watching, walking and reading were the main activities of the day.
On Tuesday the 4th we left Durack River and called in at Ellenbrae just to have a look. This had a genuine station feel to it quite unlike the much more upmarket Home Valley. Some of us indulged in scones, jam and cream the specialty of this place. Most thought they weren’t a patch on Rags fruit damper!
We investigated the camping spot at Russ River and this is where we found a Landcruiser bogged up to the bottom of the doors. The sand had appeared firm but they had broken through the outer crust. They’d been there overnight and had organised for the grader to pull them out in the evening as even a fellow 4WDer couldn’t get him out after trying with a winch or a snatch strap after trying for several hours. Both Rags and Steve thought it should
have been possible to dig the vehicle out.
Kalumburu Crossing was our lunch stop and it was here we made the decision to go to Drysdale Station and take the flight to Mitchell Falls rather than drive on this road that many had suggested was too rough. We found the road to Drysdale Station was rough for the first 17km but then we met the grader and after that it was smooth riding. Drysdale River camping area was fairly quiet. And we were able to select a lovely shady site where we had a view of the whole area. The hot showers were very welcome after our bushcamping as were the washing machines. Here we were told “Don’t Speed or we won’t serve you” as dust is such a problem.
Wednesday was another halcyon day as all flights were full and we had to wait until Thursday to book our flight. We were fortunate in the morning to be able to listen in to the owner’s daughter talking about station life to a group of bus tourists. Jo enlightened us on the difficulties of running a 1 million acre, isolated cattle station and the need to diversify to
make ends meet. The rest of the morning we spent at Miners’ Pool, where we found the camp area completely empty so had the pool to ourselves. Most of us went for a swim. Steve tried out the rope swing but went “Splat”! Judy wasn’t inclined to swim but did get her feet wet. Maybe she had some inkling of the freshwater crocodiles we saw basking in the water as we ambled upstream.
The afternoon was spent reading magazines and snoozing before eating our last meal of fresh meat. We’d bought chicken which we’d had cryovacced in Kununurra. This was eaten fried with tinned mushrooms, corn and Deb mashed potatoes. After dinner we had a camp fire and sat around until we were claimed by another early night.
On Thursday our flight was 8am. Dean from Slingair was our pilot and another couple joined us, making 6 passengers in total. Our route took us past several features that are inaccessible by land as they are part of the Prince Regent Nature reserve. We followed the Prince Regent River and Flew over King Cascades where Ginger Meadows met her untimely demise after throwing a shoe at a crocodile who
approached her as she stood beneath the waterfall. The Prince Frederick Harbour was spectacular and we wished we could have been aboard one of the several Kimberley cruise ships we saw below including the Orion reputed to be the most luxurious. We approached the Mitchell Falls as a couple of helicopters took off for the $100 ride back to the camp grounds. Mitchell Falls was a bit of a disappointment when seen from the air and at this time of the year there was little water falling. Dean gave an informative commentary as we flew over the different points. Rags was very impressed with his smooth landing.
On our return to camp we finished packing up and headed back along the freshly graded road towards the Gibb River Road. Judy took this opportunity to take a turn driving as the road was so good. At Judy’s first water crossing we found 2 men filling a tank with water from the stream. Judy entered the water too quickly and left them sprayed with water. Needless to say they gave us the finger but we had a good laugh! We stopped at the Gibb River and while we waited for Kerry
and Steve to catch up we walked about 500meters up this scenic river alive with bird and animal life. Judy frightened a bungarra which to her delight took off and swam across the river in front of her.
After once again lunching at the Kalumburu Crossing we left the dust of the Kalumburu Road behind us we bounced along the non graded Gibb River Road - this was the worst section so far and Judy was glad she’d handed the wheel back to Rags.
Barnett River Gorge was to be our next stop. Although the location sounded promising the road proved to be difficult to negotiate and we turned around at the creek and proceeded towards the Mount Barnett roadhouse and Manning Gorge. I think the knowledge that the Roadhouse had a shop was tempting as we had run out of bread. Just before we reached the roadhouse we stopped to watch mustering which they do with a helicopter and bullchasers (cut off Suzuki LJ50’s). We watched them rope a cow and winch it into a truck - it surely wasn’t going easy.
The sprawling campsite at Manning Gorge was the busiest place we’ve been since El
Questro with 2 groups of bus tourists in residence. We had to search for a site but found one at the back with plenty of space although not much shade.
We took off early Friday morning for the fairly strenuous walk to Manning Gorge although well worth the effort. Manning Gorge had a glorious deepwater pool beneath a waterfall where we spent some time swimming, basking on rocks and daring each other to job from the cliff face. Steve won the dare by jumping from about 10 metres, Rags followed by diving from 5 and the girls stood on the 10 metre rock but couldn’t persuade themselves to jump so instead jumped from the 5 metre one.
The walk culminated in a swim back across the Barnett River where polystyrene boxes were provided to keep our belongings dry. It was lovely to be in the cool water again after the long hot walk. After the heat of the day we left the campsite to collect wood for our evening fire and buy a few items from the roadhouse. Rags was once again persuaded to make us a sweet damper for our desert in the dutch oven. Yum!
After an early start we bumped over the rocky road to reach Galvins Gorge where after a short stroll we arrived at another lovely pool flanked by ferns, pandanas, lichens and the odd boab tree. This too as fed by a waterfall and we had it all to ourselves except for one very large water monitor that we found on the banks after we swam to the other side. He eventually swam away and left us to enjoy the cool water before we departed once again along the Gibb River Road toward the turn off to Mornington Wildlife Conservancy which was our next destination. Just after the turn off we had to radio in to ensure there was a site available as they only cater for 50 campers at any one time and it is a long 88 kilometres of gravel and many creek crossings. It is quiet at the moment so we had no problems. It took us about an hour and a half to reach our destination where we were grateful for the cold water offered by the cheery young lady on reception.
The heat hit us as we began to set up camp so we did
a bare minimum before heading to the nearest swimming hole -being Cadjeput- for a dip and a bit of birdwatching under the large shady trees beside the Fitzroy River. We were lucky enough to see a large Bustard or bush turkey on the way. At the river side we saw long tailed finches, a Rainbow Bee-eater, Corellas, black cockatoos among others. By the time we reached camp again it was time for cooking, dinner and Canasta before bed.
Early Sunday morning the two of us went for a walk alongside Annie Creek which adjoins the camp area. We saw a fair bit of birdlife but it was difficult to take photos as we were walking east into the rising sun.
After breakfast Steve tried to hire some canoes but they had all been booked for the day. One was then booked for our use tomorrow. Instead, we altered our plans and took a lunch out to Sir John’s Gorge,(named after Sir John Forrest). Another beautiful area with good deep swimming holes filled with icy water. We set up under some of the few trees lining the bank and spent time exploring the stretch of water to the next set
of ‘rapids’, swam, read and ate when it got too warm, generally relaxing. On throwing a few bits of bread in the water we were amazed to see them attacked by fish up to about 30cm in length. A fisherman’s delight except fishing is not permitted!
We diverted to the wetlands area on the way back and from a bird hide observed many different species such as brolgas and dotterels as well as seeing the banded wren close up as they had nests inside the hide.
A quick swim at Blue Bush followed before dinner, followed by a talk about the Aust Wildlife Conservancy given by a very knowledgeable and fluent young lady, Jo.
We picked up the paddles for the canoe early the next morning and drove the 24kms to Dimond Gorge. The track wasn’t in a great state and with the many creek crossings and floodways, this took about 90 mins. After paddling around the corner from the starting point and leaving Steve & Kerry on a nice sandy beach, we paddled up the gorge. This was really worthwhile, the water was like glass adding to the spectacle of the towering cliffs and stunning scenery.
We stopped at a spring near the end and cooled off in the plunge pool at the base of the rocks, delightful!
On our return we shared lunch with the other two before they set off in the canoe, leaving us to read, interspersed with dips in the water off our private beach. This gorge would have to be one of the ‘unmissable’ sites in Mornington, well worth the effort of getting there and paddling some distance.
The evening was spent going over photos and amalgamating shots from 4 different cameras.
It was an early departure from Mornington and on the way out we stopped at the ruins of the Glen Roy meatworks to take some ‘arty’ photos of the old yards with the ranges in the background. We stopped at the Imitji Roadhouse for fuel and bread, the ubiquitous icecream for Steve and Kerry, before continuing to Silent Grove, the camping area about 25kms before Bell Gorge where camping is no longer permitted. This ban was commenced 2 years ago, according to the rangers we spoke to later, because of the possible contamination of Bell Gorge during the summer floods.
Bell Gorge is said to be
Russ River
Glad this never happened to us!the highlight of the Gibb River Road trip and whether you agree or not, it is a very special place. Towering cliffs surround the pools of water after the waterfall you first reach, each of these deep pools being connected by small rapids at this time of the year. If we were to repeat this trip we would do it earlier in the season so that there would be a greater volume of water flowing in all the areas we have been to. This would mean deeper water crossings so a snorkel would be essential. Up to now, there have not been any spots we felt one was needed but we intend fitting one for security on future trips.
After several swims and lunch we farewelled Kerry & Steve, Rags wanting to drive straight through to Derby and the comfort of the caravan after 3 weeks in the tent, rather than having to unpack and repack again tomorrow morning.
On our arrival in Derby at about 1730 hrs we were welcomed by Lorraine and Brett and invited to share their meal of roast pork with them. We didn’t hesitate in accepting this invitation, both of us being hungry
and looking forward to something which didn’t come out of a tin!
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Judy
non-member comment
Galvins Gorge
This photo brings back memories of a weekend spent camped there in the early 80s. We were living in Derby. The water was flowing after the wet and we showered under the waterfall every morning! Your photos are stunning and I'm very jealous as I sit here in Busselton and listen to the rain on the tin roof!!