SCUBA diving

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Today I set out on an activity that I’ve wanted to do for years, but have always found excuses to not do it - it costs too much to get certified, I don’t have the time, I’d rather do it someplace that is renowned… Today, I finally went SCUBA diving.

Most places require people to be certified before they can dive. The process is a bit laborious and seemed overdone to me, with a high upfront cost in time and effort with no idea if it’s even worthwhile. But the beautiful thing about Cairns is that you can dive without being certified AND you can do it in one of the best diving spots in the world - the Great Barrier Reef.

Having booked yesterday with a company called Down Under, I made my way to the nearby marina to check in by 7:30. Most people hadn’t arrived yet so I was towards the front of the check in line. When it was my turn to register, the Aussie guy working the desk, raising his head called me Haley, then realized I looked nothing like a Haley. Sorry about that, mate. Thought you were the last girl yet.

After registration, I headed down to board the ship which would take us about 20 miles off the coast to the Reef. At the ship I was given my safety number - 75 - which I would need throughout the day. It ended up being used for groupings, storage, registering for additional services and, most importantly, to make sure that everyone who went out ended up coming back. The last one seemed pretty important to me, especially after reading in Bill Bryson‘s In a Sunburned Country about a couple of experienced divers that went out in the late nineties and didn’t return. The tour company apparently forgot them. If they didn’t drown they were likely eaten by sharks; their bodies were never found. Though later on I read that it was a bit suspicious because apparently the male had left suicidal notes in his diary.

Another concern was about the infamous box jellyfish. It was reiterated when, during our trip out, the staff recommended the use of stinger suits since there are many stingers out there, some that will make you feel like you got hit by a truck, or worse. Plus the suits were UV resistant.

Yet the biggest hazard turned out to be the complimentary hot tea that we received on the way out. This stuff could make the skin on the roof of your mouth peel for days. It was finally drinkable after about 45 minutes.

After our general session where we received our overview of the day’s activities, those of us that wanted stinger suits got them and tried them on. It was at this point I met a German girl named Kat who was along for snorkeling only. I told her that she should be sure to keep out of the SCUBA meeting. We don’t want your type associating with us. She found this almost as amusing as I did.

In the SCUBA overview, we went over numerous details so we’d know what we were doing when it was time to go. For all us non-certified divers, which was the majority, we would be in groups of four and would be linked arm-to arm with an instructor or another diver. The staff took us through the operation of the equipment - mask, fins, regulator, tank, inflatable vest, weights - and instructed us on proper technique. Getting in the water. Lowering ourselves under. Proper breathing. Maintaining suitable pressure in the sinus cavities by popping the ears. Keeping our hands off the red button that inserts air into the vest and pulls us up rapidly to the surface. Hand signals for checking if we’re okay and for identifying marine life.

We also went over two skill tests that would be done when we first got in the water, to show we could respond appropriately if the regulator came off or if our masks needed to be clear.

It was all a bit overwhelming, as my simple mind contemplated simply throwing on a mask, tank and breathing apparatus, hopping in the water and going for a swim.

Just after we finished our briefing we arrived at our first spot, Hastings Reef. It is one of several reefs along the 2,000 km stretch of reef known as the Great Barrier Reef. Since not everyone could dive at once, those of us that would be going later went in to snorkel. I was right at home with this. I finally got to use my camera and went a little picture crazy with the brightly colored blue fish with yellow tails and various larger grey ones, as well as the coral and divers below. I have no idea what kind of fish they were, even after consulting a few of the posters on board.

After about a half hour, my group was called to get suited up and go. I dropped off my camera in my bag since it likely wouldn’t withstand the depth of the dive and proceeded to get weights on my back. Then it was time for a seat off the rear of the boat, where I got my tank put on. With little further instruction, other than a reminder about the two skills tests, we slid into the water one-by-one. The air was released from our vests and we began to descend. It really didn’t feel too strange other than the very dry air making its way into my lungs as I was surrounded by wetness.

In front of me, the instructor pointed to his mask, my instruction to prove to him that I could effectively clear my mask. Then the others did the same, followed by all of us removing our breathing tubes, keeping air releasing from our mouths and reinserting the tubes. No one had a problem with either of these tests.

We all latched onto the instructor and began submerging slowly. We didn’t make it down all that far - I would guess about five meters at most. The scenery here was surprisingly less than what I expected. We did come across a clownfish and certainly saw some coral but the snorkeling provided us with every bit as good an experience at this location. Having talked to a few others throughout the day, they had similar reactions.

Though the scenery and the human training wheels were a bit disappointing, it was still enjoyable; so much so that when I resurfaced and was asked whether I wanted to do a second dive later, without having to be latched onto an instructor, I wholeheartedly agreed.

Our complimentary lunch would soon be ready, so after taking off my gear and my stinger suit I decided to forego more snorkeling and indulge in the delights of an Aussie BBQ. But first I had to use the facilities, making my way past numerous people on board. I also had noticed that my watch, which is supposed to be water resistant up to 100 meters, was reluctant to resist water at even a five meter depth and was no longer working.

After all this and walking around the deck for a minute or two I wiped off the top of my nose and discovered I had a greenish brown gelatin-like substance that had been resting there as I walked all over the ship for the past five to ten minutes. Yes, I had a huge booger that covered a good part of my nose. I was a disgusting version of Rudolph and no one bothered to inform me of this.

The booger removed I had a massive lunch consisting of salad, rice, pasta, fish, rump steak, chicken, prawns and a sandwich; plenty of fuel for the rest of the day. As lunch wrapped up, we proceeded to our second dive location at Saxon Reef.

When we arrived one of the crew started feeding some of the fish to give us some great photo opportunities. One of the fish that was after the food was a long eel-like critter who would jump out of the water and catch the food in midair when it was thrown. I also observed hundreds of large jellyfish in the water and immediately grew satisfied with my brilliant decision to rent a stinger suit.

It would be a bit before my second dive so I went out snorkeling again. As perhaps the lone American on the ship, I quickly became known as “Philly” to a few members of the dive crew when I was getting in the water.

The second location was leagues better than the first for seeing an array of fish and coral. Here there were fish with an array of bright blues, pinks, violets, oranges, reds and yellows that would swim through the layers of coral below. I followed many of these around, trying (often in vain) to get some good pictures of them.

It was soon time for my second dive so again I got suited up and waited for the rest of my group to join me. While I was waiting for the other guys, I learned that the jellyfish in the water were very tame, as the crew and “Philly” tossed them at one another like snowballs.

We went through the same steps getting in the water this time (without the skills tests) though it became a bit tougher when the rear end of my stinger suit got snagged on a hook out the back of the boat. With a weighty tank on my back, I awkwardly had to maneuver myself back up on the platform to get myself free. With a little help I did this and before I knew it I was submerging towards the ocean floor.

This second dive was infinitely better than the first. The scenery was exquisite as we passed by numerous brightly colored fish and layer after layer of coral. On the ocean floor we came upon a sting ray and a giant clam, which appeared to be about four feet in diameter.

Adding to the enjoyment was the liberating feeling of swimming on my own. Our instructor felt good about our ability to handle ourselves under water so he let us roam so long as we could maintain visual contact with him in case of emergency. I wasn’t sure about it after the first dive but after this one I am hooked. We each asked about doing a third dive, which would only be another AU$20, but it was soon time to head back.

On the trip back, I caught back up with Kat, who I had seen a few times today. We took part in the free wine, cheese and crackers as we listened to one of the crew members perform as a sort of one man band.

Arriving an hour later, we all parted. I went for my certificate showing I did a dive and there wasn’t one there. I joked around with the crew member that called me Haley earlier that day and we resolved the lack of a certificate by me taking the one that the real Haley must have left behind. The day had come full circle.

The dives were part of a great experience. The reef is something that anyone with an interest in marine life should certainly see at least once in their lifetime, especially with a tank on their back and free mobility. I can’t wait to go again. I guess I have another expensive hobby.

Back at the hostel I setup my new computer and started the file retrieval from DropBox. Through the backup I had saved more than 5,000 files, mostly pictures that would have vanished from existence without it.

I had another free meal at the Wool Shed tonight. Afterwards, I continued computer setup, wrote one entry and went to bed. It was a very busy but thoroughly enjoyable day. As I fell asleep, thunder cracked in the background of the tropical oasis that is Cairns.

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Photos

Me
I look downright sexy in goggles.

Divers and snorkelers
Everyone getting in the water.

Lots of fish
There were tons of these bright blue and yellow fish near the boat.

Divers
A set of three intro divers swims with an instructor.

Bubbles
I like this picture. It's from above some of the divers.

Jelly fish
Before I knew that this type is harmless, the zoom came in handy.

Fish
A fish poses for me with the coral backdrop.

Fish and coral
Fish swimming above (and occasionally eating) the coral.

Coral
Layered coral rises high above the sand below.