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The Big Banana, Coffs Harbour
The original big thing, here since 1964, it originally advertised just a fruit store and now has grown into a theme park!Pleased to say the weather has got a lot better here! Another example of how huge this country is (and how far we've come) - it may have been cold and wet in Victoria but here in Queensland we've had perfect sunny blue skies with temperatures now in the very comfortable mid-twenties!
Upon leaving Coff's Harbour we came across one of Australia's icons, a 'big' icon! Australia is famous for its 'big' things - they are in your face large sculptures used to advertise the product or the theme they are selling. Fittingly, the Big Banana at Coffs Harbour was the first which started the craze in 1964. Since then there are now over hundred with many becoming a cult phenomenon - some people even use the objects as an excuse for a road trip! I'm not saying we went out of our way but after picking up a 'Big' things map at the Big Banana, if there were any on route it seemed rude not to stop, regardless of our brash or tacky they may seem! The Big Banana started off as a fruit store but today has blossomed into a theme park. Unfortunately there was still a bit
Steve Irwin Way
Around Glass House Mountains of rain around at this point unabling us to go on the tabogen!
So we moved on to Byron Bay - a surfers mecca. Huge waves and fine sands formed a backdrop for hippie surfer image, many campers and cool shops. Arriving at night, we stumbled across Cheeky Monkeys - a backpackers party bar which had a differently themed night every night. Tonight was mexican and after grabbing a free sombrero we found Jenga boxes scattered around the tables. With various different games and competitions to win, plus the standard backpackers long table to dance on - this was one fun lovin place! In the morning we awoke to dreary weather which fortunately quickly cleared up for our guide up Cape Byron lighthouse (the most powerful in Oz) and then a walk around the headland (Australia's most easterly point) taking in the beautiful beachs, surfers, giant waves crashing against the rocks and the odd leaping dolphin! We then explored the shops and Jessie found the hippie-coat of her dreams which was worth the pricetag (extremely good value) just for the smile that it put on her face. I think she thought it was Christmas! We then walked along Main
Beach, stopping to appreciate the comical carvings people had made into the hard sand banks. A beautiful sunset over the beach ended a day that felt like the beginning of new beautiful sunny weather from here on north! In the evening we couldn't resist going back to Cheeky Monkeys for some more fun and frolics, tonight being Coyote Ugly night (dancing on tables competitions).
Byron Bay may have been hippie surfer central but the next day we felt like we were going back in time to hippie heaven. Along one of the most beautiful drives in New South Wales circular inland from Byron Bay is a small village called Nimbin. A sleepy dairy town until 1973, when the Aquarius Festival, a large gathering of 'hippies' was held in the town. After the festival many participants and festival goers remained in Nimbin to form communes and established the forefront of Australian hippy culture. So with the ipod appropriately set to The Doors we rocked up in our VW camper (if only we had a classic!) and perused this colourful little village that not only seemed to be locked away in time (as many villages do here with an american architectural
edge) but also from the law. The air was filled with marajuana and we couldn't walk very far with out constantly being offered the sale of the illegal drug! A main theme of the village and its very interesting museum was the legalisation of the drug and an education into its positive usage. The museum particularly was a thrown together arty array of Aboriginal to hippie history centering around the hippie vibe of VW campers, growing the 'weed' and loving your neighbour! Psychedelic fronted shops such as 'Bringabong' and 'Happy High Herbs' lined the streets and they even had a Hemp bar! Every year there is an annual festival called Mardi Grass which marches on the legalisation of the drug and despite the unlikelyhood of this occuring, the police have become very tolerant. Despite a lack of personal interest in the drug, we were however bowled over by the clothe stores, one of which I could have redesigned my wardrobe with! These were the clothes I had been longing for, clothes that you can't get in commercial shops at home (well not for at least 30 years probably). Jessie had her hippie coat (we literally lost count the amount of
times people commented on how nice it was!) so I indulged in some tops that could have come from the Woodstock era!
Moving on, we stopped off at Tweed Heads. Having a toilet and hot shower (as well as stove, fridge and microwave) on board we usually just find any safe place to pull over for the night as we have all the facilities we need, it's great for freedom purposes! However from time to time we need to fill up with water, charge the camera (camper plug sockets only work when hooked up to the campsite power), empty the toilet or even do the laundry so we need to find a campsite (a powered site costs around 15 quid a night). Tweed Heads was the nearest campsite to our next point of interest - Surfers Paradise. By contrast, this was a large ultra-modern town with high rise blocks lining the long perfect stretch of beach, giving a sort of exclusive air to the place. We drove in at night (crossing into Queensland) and after exploring (finding the 'Big' hard rock guitar) we found a band playing at a bar.
The following day we stopped off briefly to
look around Brisbane - the capital of Queensland. This was probably the main reason for a visit as the city offers little in tourist attractions or great sights. Parking was a bit of a nightmare and getting out of the place was as bad as Sydney, though I suppose we can at least say we've been there! That night we drove into the Glass House Mountains National Park - a scenic rise inland, we awoke to beautiful surroundings, having camped right in the centre. After climbing one of its peaks we carried on driving along 'Steve Irwin Way' and while searching along the way for the Big Pineapple, we were stunned by the sad news of Michael Jackson's death. It was one of those 'where were you moments' and despite driving between the rather bland towns of Woombye and Nambour, the moment will remain vivid. It's a shame that you don't appreciate how great somebody is/was until they die! After finding the biggest of all the 'big' things we had encountered - a pineapple which encompassed a museum within it with surrounding plantations and park rides, we moved onto Noosa Heads. The main stop off point for Fraser Island -
the largest sand island in the world!
Having booked a personal 4x4 tour the previous day, we were picked up at 6:30 in the morning for a two hour drive to the island where we took a barge over. A world heritage site due to its unique vegetation living in sand, Fraser Island has beach for as long as the eye can see and a rainforest interior surrounding perfectly clear blue lakes and sand you can polish your jewellery with! It was great flying along the sand with the waves crashing down on one side and sand dunes on the other. We saw many Dingoes, one even eating a large turtle. After a walk in the rainforest we relaxed around the beautiful shores of Lake Mckenzie and swam in the pristine waters (cold but refreshing!). Most of the drive back along the mainland to Noosa Heads was along the beach as the tide was now further in. Many fishermen lined the beach catching their BBQ supper! We stopped off for afternoon tea at Rainbow beach - so called for its amazing colours in the sand bank ranging through from pink, red, orange and brown. Once back we went for
a sunset walk around the National Park trying to spot the toads that ribbetted but stopped and proved elusive when getting close (were they under the ground?!). However the previous night I had found and picked up a large Cane Toad - one of Australia's biggest pests (apparently you're meant to kill them if you find them). It was bought in from the Caribbean as a way of eradicating the Cane Beetle which ate the crops. However this proved unsuccessful and the toad came a greater pest itself, being highly poisonous if ingested and therefore killing many predators and farmers animals.
From Fraser Island we had a long and samey 600 mile drive up the Bruce Highway before other attractions loomed. Starting that night we stopped off overnight on the way at Bundaberg - famous for its rum. No surprise, they have a 'big' rum bottle outside the factory and museum which we called in at before a day of driving which we shared. That night we got to Eungella National Park where the next day we unfortunately failed to properly spot the Platypus that supposedly loomed large here. There were many tortoises in the water though and the
rainforest and river formed stunning surroundings for a walk and a sunbathe. The surrounding drive out back to the coast took us down very steep windy mountain rainforest roads while the plains were covered with sugarcane - the main crop around this area. It felt a bit like the middle of nowhere. During the drive I suddenly spotted a black streak on the road - and thought is that a snake? Too late, that was a snake - I'd just ran over it! I saw it flare up in my mirror in deathly anguish. I reversed to confirm my suspicion to find it split open and displaying its innards. After kicking gravel over it, it still had a wriggle or two left in it so I didn't get too close to what was very likely a highly poisonous species. Shame the first one I'd seen in the wild of Australia I'd just killed. At least I'd had a van between me when squashing it!
So here we now are at Airlie Beach after yesterday taking a Sailing Catamaran out to the Whitsunday Islands. The water here is clear blue and like a lake it's so calm. We both snorkelled
the reef and I took the further option of doing a scuba dive. The fish and coral here are beautiful (so many colours!) and despite not being quite out as far as the Great Barrier Reef the flora and fauna on display around the islands is considered just as stunning and diverse. My scuba dive was another experience but a little disappointing as I didn't feel I saw anything that I didn't from the top while snorkelling. I may have been more amongst it all, but it also seemed to be over far to quick (the supposed 25 minutes felt like 5!). That's the problem with introductory dives - you can't go far enough down to see anything much different. I did get a certificate though to prove what I had learnt and this can go towards further qualification. The water here is surprisingly cold - a lot colder than I thought, shivering by the time I came out. Maybe we've been spoilt by the waters off Thailand which were literally like taking a warm bath! However we soon warmed up relaxing on the top of the boat while gliding through the serene waters.
4 full days left in
Oz and then New Zealand and yet another dramatic change in temperature. Too cold for swimming in the sea there we think! Looking forward to the country's diversity though and a bit of snow will certainly make things interesting. Only thing I'm really missing at home (no offense! Jessie's missing her new baby niece) is Wimbledon, however I'm trying to catch the odd bit in bars here, though they are always showing cocky Lleyton Hewitt as he's an Ozzie!. Wish Nadal was playing so Federer could take his rightful crown back off him personally! Hope all are well x x
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Lee Bilinghurst
non-member comment
Nice one....
Hey guys! Sounds like your having a super time!! The north looks/sounds great! And might I say what a fabulous piece of writing Mr Hartley! :p Take care, Lee x x