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Published: September 29th 2013
After a day of frivolity at Daly Waters, it was time to continue south and do what the early coastal explorers couldn't do, head for the centre of Australia. So, we passed the road that leads into Arnhem Land and saved ourselves many hours of dusty teeth shaking driving to the north. If you do this trip, there is the same event in reverse to rejoin the Stuart Highway. We are neither equipped for that adventure or so mad keen to see the very north of Arnhem Land to attempt such a trip.
Once again, we were not sure where we would get for the day, but with temps in the high 30s, it didn't make sense to sit in a hot van admiring dust and flies. So we took a peep at a number of places as we travelled with the aircon turned on
First stop was for fuel at the Daly Waters Roadhouse, not the servo with the mangled helicopter stuck on the roof, but on the highway just a few Ks south. It was noticeable here that fuel is expensive, just under or around $2.00 per litre for diesel. After a quick splash and dash stop,
we headed south east again for Renner Springs.
There is no comparison between Mataranka and Renner. No lush forest, birds or beauty, just a roadhouse in the middle of no where on the edge of the Tanami Desert. Now, seasoned 4WD drivers boast about taking 4 days to cross this desert and fighting their way across inhospitable land. What a waste of time and fuel. In 30 minutes we were across on a great sealed road. Still the stop here for an ice cream was welcome, and certainly not available on the Tanami track.
We had thought that we might stop at Banka Banka Station, but that looked poor, so we went on to Attack Creek. This site has a long history of warfare, and nothing was different on our visit. There is a memorial there to early explorers who were driven back by the aboriginals. There needs to be an additional one for tourist driven back by hordes of high speed ultra persistent flies!
It was food time, so we chose to dine in before heading further south.
It was clear that we could get to the Devils Marbles in plenty of time so we
skipped passed what is known as Three Ways and Tennant Creek to a place we both had on our bucket list.
We were rather surprised at the number and variety of shaped marbles that the devil plays with. The site also has an aboriginal significance because it is here that the underground people emerge at night and capture wandering children. Their story tells of a woman who sang a song which released her son from the underground people, but sadly the enchanted song has long since been lost. So if another wandering or crying child is taken, sadly there seems to be no hope and the child will be changed into an underground person to.
Oh, we were surprised that the flies out number the marbles about 1000 to 1. So, no glam shots here as most tourists had their fly hats on to keep mouth, nose, ears and eyes fly free. We were second into the camp, and the other people were so glad that we could halve the number of flies bugging them. Sadly, the flies called up some reserves and we all had plenty of company.
These folks were trying to drink their wine
with their fly hats on. Not an easy task. They may have been better with straws.
This is a fun place for photographers, all taking their own trick shots as well as the more post card style shots. It was too cloudy for a decent sunset, and indeed small showers spoiled the sunrise shots. But we certainly had fun.
The National Parks camping ground is cheap ($6.60 for 2 Adults per night) and has the usual basic pit toilets. There were also a number of platforms which we decided made good picnic tables, about 2 meters square. We woke in the morning to find an alternative use, a motorcyclist had pitched his pup tent up on one of the platforms.
This is remote Australia, and within 100ks of the actual land mass centre of Australia. So, in an unfenced area you can expect visits by wandering creatures. A very handsome dingo briefly visited as he passed across the camp area.
Marg is becoming very determined since wrestling the croc in Darwin, balancing rocks on her head at Kakadu, and amazed me as she held a 50 ton rock in the palm of her hand at the
devils marbles.
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Us2@136
non-member comment
What no pix this time?
Good comment and we tried to see the flies and dust. You can keep them there. Church was fine but mum is feeling the aircon althoughvI thought it was fine. Must sign off at SDBC still no sign we are missed and we are into the 5th month we think it was first Sunday in June we were last there. Lunch to get ready so bye for now and love from US2@136 Oxox