The end of the Australian chapter approaches

A little update from Katoomba in the heart of the Blue Mountains, as the Australian chapter of our journey comes to a close.

From Tumut we made our way via Wee Jasper, Crockwell and Abercrombie River Park to Oberon; generally riding through farmland, of sparse population, whether it be trees, people or livestock. There were undulations a-plenty, with an upward trend, of course.

Our first stopping point was at Wee Jasper, which is indeed wee. As I passed the tiny, house-like school I noticed a chalk sign reminding the would be pupil(s) that school was restarting that week and that Sally would be teaching. I couldn't imagine a school of such intimate, small scale being allowed to survive at home. Where was the mission statement and the economies of scale? What would happen to their standing in the league tables if little Bruce had a bad week? Perhaps the fact that Wee Jasper is 80 kms from its nearest neighbour is relevant.

A few classy looking horses have made an appearance in the fields and we wondered if they were for work or recreation. Our question was soon answered when we saw real cowboys hearding cattle along the road. In sheep country, motorbikes are the steed of choice, and although sheep dogs are much in evidence, their usual habitat is the back of pick-up trucks, or even riding motorbike pillion!

After Oberon we spent a delightful couple of days riding into the Kanangra Boyd National Park and passing a night of solitude (apart from one very relaxed wallaby) beside the sparkling clean Boyd River. We were a short ride away from the spectacular Kanangra Walls - a sheer sandstone rockface rising out of dense, pristine wilderness. From there, the steepest road ever cycled by man (or woman) led down to Jenolan caves, but the inevitable road out of the valley bottom was a dream - scenic with a gentle, constant incline. What a relief to have tackled the route in this direction!

This region would appear to be the exotic forest mushroom capital of Australia, and Sydney restauranteurs camp out to be the first to gather the sought-after Saffron Milk Caps and Sticky Buns. The cool misty conditions that prevailed had fooled the Saffron Milk Caps into an early appearance so, while camping beside a pine forest that night, we collected bagfuls of huge mushies, which made a fine addition to our dinner repertoire. Richard was hesitant at first, but I assured him that the tingling lips were due merely to the curry sauce. Besides, we gave some to a somewhat trusting German couple, and they seemed to be fine.

As we coasted into the Blue Mountains, we also ploughed straight into the foggy dampness that had shrouded the region for several days. Unimpressed by the prospect of several days camping in blinding mist and drizzle, we abandoned our plan to cycle along Bells Line of Road to reach the western suburbs of Sydney, and instead made straight for Blackheath and the relative comfort of a caravan park, before catching the cycle-friendly train to the lively and relaxed town of Katoomba. Here, three glorious days of positive luxury at the Youth Hostel - room to spread around and wild extravagence on the cookery front: while our fellow backpackers seem to exist on toast and Domino's Pizzas (not entirely true - the women at least have found the fresh veggies store), we are scraping by on rump steak, roasted vegetables (oh, the joy of an oven) and rissotto. Perhaps this will go some way to restoring the 15 kg weight loss that we have experienced between us. Not known for our sartorial elegance, even we recognise that the Charlie Chaplin trouser look is not a good one. After 37 days of camping, about 12 of them in the wilderness, this backpacker life seems to be such a cushy number that I can see myself taking to it when I am old and grey (that'll be in about six days, then).

And so, after 3500 km and poised to cruise into Sydney by train, with very little more cycling to do in Australia, what can I say about our time down-under? For starters, Tasmania was marvellous; a treat of cycling, wildlife and scenery, tranquil and relaxed. We'd recommend it to anybody and, to cyclists especially, as a perfect stand-alone cycle trip. Our route through Victoria and New South Wales has, again, been a classic cycle tour, combining beaches, mountains, scenery, wildlife and awe-inspiring wilderness. The cycling has been tough, with challenging, but manageable, hills; realistically there is nothing on the same scale as European mountains! Unsealed roads and wilderness camping have added to the challenge, but have magnified the enjoyment and satisfaction immeasurably.

And what of the Australians themselves? Well, the ones we have met have been friendly, fun, interested and outgoing. Many love to travel and are particularly proud of their homeland and keen to explore it. Others turn to the Far East or to Europe, citing "We are 200 years old, and we have a rock". All like the outdoors, but only a slim minority are active out of doors. For the remainder, the great outdoors is a romantic, idealised notion, mainly experienced from within, or at least beside, the 4WD, preferably at the campfire, with a beer in one hand and a steak in the other! On a personal note, we have found great friendship and the warmest of welcomes here, particularly from Peter, Roslyn, Hayden and Scott. And we thank them for helping to make this the most marvellous experience.

We are now looking forward to a few days in Sydney. The bikes are booked in for renewal of the chains and rings, and are to be packed for our flight to Chile. And, of course, we have a half century to celebrate. So a new chapter will begin in South America. Hasta luego.

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