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Published: January 30th 2008
Dead Horse Gap
If she'd been a horse she'd have been shot years ago.It's amazing what a hot shower and a couple of bottles of riesling can do for you. Clean and refreshed, we departed Jindabyne to head for a wilderness camp just beyond Threbdo. By "just beyond" I mean 6 km uphill to Dead Horse Gap, then 10 km down hill to Leather Barrel Creek - our home for the next two nights. Sounds innocuous, but we had decided to walk to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko, the highest mountain in Australia at 2228 metres. And so the following day we cycled back to Thredbo (10 km up the hill, and 6 km down again), climbed the mountain, then made the return journey home (6 km up the hill, then 10 km down again). Very nice it was too, up Mount Kosciuszko; carpeted with wild alpine flowers - yellow billy buttons, violets, buttercups, which curioiusly seem to be white (perhaps these should be called lardcups, or I-can't-believe-it's-not-butter cups) and wild mint.
That night there was a tremendous thunderstorm, with flashes of lightning so brilliant as to dazzle for several seconds, and thunder so loud that it could be felt as we lay in the tent. With each strike, the change in the
Mount Kosciuszko
Resting on top of Australia clarity of the air was palpable. The next day was purgatory for legs weary from unaccustomed walking, with climbing, climbing, climbing up to Scammel Viewpoint, then down, down down to Khancoban at 300 meters. En route a wedge-tailed Eagle soared above us. At dusk in the caravan park we were mesmerised by enormous - 2 foot wingspan - fruit eating bats swooping in to feed in a nearby tree.
Our next destination was the town of Cabramurra, the highest in Australia. But, having heard that it was preceded by a huge downhill and a savage climb, we aimed to stop 15 km short at O'Brien's Hut and save our energy for the following gruelling day. Little did we know: we climbed up to over 1600 metres with numerous hardcore undulations on the way, and arrived at O'Brien's Hut seriously knackered, to the sound of growling thunder. A torrential downpour of rain and hail ensued, which at least saved us a trip to the stream for cooking water. Next day, having psyched ourselves up for a gruelling climb, we were disappointed: it was a doddle; 6 km steep downhill, 10 km very steady uphill to Cabramurra, then a 10 km
level short cut across the Mt Selwyn Snowfield to a lovely campground beside Three Mile Dam.
The glorious high, open landscape and tranquil camping spots encouraged us to dawdle here, and so we took another three days to ride the remaining few kilometers to Tumut, stopping at the riverside beside the abandonned village of Yarrangobilly, and then at Log Bridge Creek beside the Blowering Dam. Unfortunately, due to the depleted water level at the latter, we had a longer than expected walk to get our water supply and customary afternoon bathe.
Now you find us in Tumut, the biggest town that we have seen in weeks, catching up with the domestic chores that still have to be done, and planning the next stage of our journey to Sydney through the Blue Mountains.
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Danielle
non-member comment
Hello
Still sounds fab. Doesn't resemble the Aus we see on TV. Both looking well (was going to say fit and healthy but you may not agree!) Kids didn't fancy any of the receipes. Phots are great. Take care. The Webbies xxxx