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Published: September 23rd 2009
Joshua Trees
Whilst driving through NevadaSo with Las Vegas done and dusted and the group having got to know each other during the fun and over the top entertainment of the past two days, its was time to move onto the natural beauties of the Untied states. So we leave the hotel first thing in the morning and head to the open roads. The 165 miles today takes us about 4 hours and we reach the campground for us first night of camping. After the experience of camping in Australia and knowing that with the purchase of the Thermarest Sleeping mat in Australia sleeping would not be such an issue.
The campground is a hive of activity with other tour groups in the same area, including another from Trek America. We unpack and with the midday sun beating down on us, we are given a few options for the afternoon.
What a great way to cool down than to sit in the river and chat amongst our group. The river was busy with families enjoying the cool waters. Some had camping chairs in the river and reading or doing the crossword. Myself, Tatts, Elle, Susan, Georgia and Alex sat waist high in the cool
running water as children and adults floated by in large inflatable rings. I remember Tatiana getting up to move into the sunlight and one of her flip-flops floats away, never to be seen again.
Like all camping tours the groups are spilt into small cooking teams and tonight is the first night of cooking since we got together. But tonight we are treated to a meal cooked by our tour guide Amanda.
We are in Zion National Park a national park located in the Southwestern United States, near Springdale, Utah. A prominent feature of the park is Zion Canyon, 15 miles long and up to half a mile deep, cut through the reddish and tan-colored Navajo Sandstone by the North Fork of the Virgin River. Located at the junction of the Colorado Plateau, Great Basin, and Mojave Desert regions, the park's unique geography and variety of life zones allow for unusual plant and animal diversity. Numerous plant species as well as 289 species of birds, 75 mammals (including 19 species of bat), and 32 reptiles inhabit the park's four life zones: desert, riparian, woodland, and coniferous forest. Common plant species include cottonwood, Cactus, Datura, Juniper, Pine, Boxelder, Sagebrush,
yucca , and various willows. Notable megafauna include mountain lions, mule deer and Golden Eagles, along with reintroduced California Condors and Bighorn Sheep.
Human habitation of the area started about 8,000 years ago with small family groups of Native Americans. The canyon was discovered by Mormons in 1858 and was settled by that same group in the early 1860s.
In 1909, U.S. President William Howard Taft named the area a National Monument to protect the canyon, under the name of Mukuntuweap National Monument. However, in 1918, the acting director of the newly created National Park Service changed the park's name to Zion as the original name was locally unpopular. Zion is an ancient Hebrew word meaning a place of refuge or sanctuary.
The geology of the Zion and Kolob canyons area includes nine formations that together represent 150 million years of mostly Mesozoic-aged sedimentation. At various periods in that time, warm, shallow seas, streams, ponds and lakes, vast deserts and dry near-shore environments covered the area. Uplift associated with the creation of the Colorado Plateaus lifted the region 10,000 feet starting 13 million years ago.
We have come to Zion National Park to hike up to
Angles Landing and as the temperatures during this time of year can reach quiet high we leave the campsite early to make use of the cooler morning.
Angels Landing The Angels Landing Trail is one of the most famous and thrilling hikes in the national park system. Zion's pride and joy runs along a narrow rock fin with dizzying drop-offs on both sides. The trail culminates at a lofty perch, boasting magnificent views in every direction. Rarely is such an intimidating path so frequented by hikers. One would think that this narrow ridge with deep chasms on each of its flanks would allure only the most intrepid of hikers. Climbers scale its big wall; hikers pull themselves up by chains and sightseers stand in awe at its stunning nobility. The towering monolith is one of the most recognizable landmarks in the Southwest.
The trail to Angels Landing is popular and well maintained but rated strenuous and not recommended for anyone fearful of heights, a warning which applies mostly to the last section, as the path starts unspectacularly just north of Zion Lodge halfway along the scenic drive and initially follows the road through shady, tree-covered
land then crosses the Virgin River on a footbridge. This part is the southern end of the West Rim Trail, a long cross country route that has a northern terminus at the Wildcat Trailhead near Lava Point in the far north of the park - 14.5 miles away. The path is paved at first and fairly level, before leaving the shade of the pine/oak trees and climbing steadily up the west side of the main canyon via many sharp switchbacks which seem to go on forever, and then turning away along Refrigerator Canyon, a cool, sheltered side valley with dark, vertical walls of Navajo sandstone. Tall Douglas fir trees grow here, one of the few places in the park where this species can be seen.
An even steeper series of switchbacks ('Walter's Wiggles' - 21 tight bends as the path ascends nearly 500 feet) leads up the east wall of Refrigerator Canyon to a narrow ridge, where the surfaced trail ends, although the West Rim Trail continues northwards. This bendy section is named after a former superintendent of Zion National Park, Walter Ruesch, who helped design the route. At the trail junction on top of the switchbacks (Scout Lookout),
the last half mile of the path - the Angels Landing Trail - ascends southwards along the ridge to the summit, and is marked only by rock cairns, occasional steps carved in the rock and chains which have been fixed for safety at several particularly steep places. At some points, the ridge is only a few feet wide, with sheer drop-offs at either side, so great caution is advisable. In terms of statistics this might be the most dangerous trail in any national park; on June 8th 2007, a 53-year-old man from Missouri fell 1,000 feet to his death from near the top of the path, the sixth fatality here since 1983. At this point it had taken me about 3 hours to get this far and with a much needed rest and time to take in the views l had decided that this was as far as l wanted to go. Until a couple of others from my group appeared including Amanda and the next thing l know l was climbing once again towards the summit.
The summit feels like the top of the world, although there are slightly higher cliffs visible in the distance, in all directions.
The views up and down Zion Canyon are of an almost mythical landscape of red and white mountains, with the river far below winding into the misty distance. The route to Angels Landing is rightly regarded as one of the most remarkable trails in the whole national park system. Once at the top and with the rest of the group sitting in the afternoon sun catching their breaths we sit for a while until watered and refreshed before the trek back down again.
By this time the sun was at its highest and l was amazed at the amount of people that were still climbing and even once l reached the bottom hoards of people were about to start their climb towards the top in temperatures in the hundreds.
With the group safely back on ground level we stop for lunch and then board the tour bus and head towards our stop-over for the night, 120 miles away at a place called Easton’s Camp not far from Paria Canyon.
We had the option of either camping in our tents or paying about $3 each to stay in the air-con wooden hut. So as quick as a flash
my $3 was ready and we all piled into the hut. Trying to find the Air-Con took a while but soon the switch was on and the cool air was a much-needed relief as the outdoor heat was becoming too much for some.
Easton Camp is run by an Ex Tour Guild and the camp had a large grass area for camping, Shower and Toilet blocks as well as a Volley Ball court that not long after we arrived we hold the Trek America Volley Balls Championships. Of course my team beat the socks of the other team and with us all dripping we from the afternoon sun the beers were served and we soon relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. Earlier that day whilst shopping e had brought some window pens so we got to work drawing over the windows with all the national flags that made up our tour and the words “12 Girls, 2 Boys, 17 States in 21 Days. We need you cash” written on the side too.
As you may remember l loved horse riding especially after my 2 weeks at Jackaoo School so when l was told you could go riding
whilst at the camp l signed up. Myself, Ja and Catherine even managed to hop a lift on the back of the owners truck and once at the stables we were introduced to our horses and followed the guild across dry river beds and through canyons and real cowboy country. The views for amazing and completely different once again from other open plains with cactus, palms and huge rock formations. Sunset came and with the low clouds the colours of bright orange, reds and purple were the perfect combination for a sunset on horseback. We passed old cowboy stations and cattle pens with even old tin cans in the sand with bullet hole in them, once used for target practice years ago.
Hares jumped out for our path and at one stage we had to keep our eyes peeled for a rattlesnake that had been spotted for the past 2 days in this area. Step by step l looked around me in hope that we did spot one. This is quite a dangerous area to be in as if the snake would have appeared could in fact cause the horses to bolt. So the girls were a bit nervous
about the possibility of having a snake appearing. Step by step we made our way pass the area and were soon back on our way home towards to stables. So 3 hours later we arrived back to the stables, once back at camp 3 other tour buses had arrived filled with French students. They had made camp on the grass area in front of our hut.
The Hut was one large room with loads of bunk-beds. Mine was one the top right above Valarie. The noise of the air-con made quiet a bit of noise but with the events of today’s hoses riding l soon drifted of to sleep. I awoke with a sudden jolt of panic thinking that l had over slept. So jumping down from the top bunk, l landed on the floor with a big bump and l remember Valarie saying “it’s only 5.30am”.
The best thing about waking early is to see some great sunrises and with the whole area asleep inside and out the place was quiet and gave me time to reflect on the past few days. Once the rest of the group had awoken and packed up we made our way
towards one of the highlights of the tour. Some 4 hours, 209 miles away was the Grand Canyon.
One the way we stop at the Glen Canyon Dam. A dam on the Colorado River at Page, Arizona, USA. It provides water storage for the arid southwestern United States, to generate electricity for the region's growing population, and to provide water recreation opportunities. The dam generates an average of 451 megawatts, 6% of the total electricity generated in Arizona and 13% of that generated in Utah where most of Lake Powell resides, which amounts to a total carbon dioxide savings of over 5 million metric tons, although it has a maximum capacity of 1300 megawatts. Damming the river flooded Glen Canyon and created a large reservoir called Lake Powell. Just downstream from the dam is an arch bridge that carries U.S. Route 89. Also nearby is the 2280 megawatt, coal-fired Navajo Generating Station.
A few minutes away from the dam was the Horseshoe Bend, that is the name for a horseshoe-shaped meander of the Colorado River located near the town of Page, Arizona, in the United States. It is located slightly downstream from the Glen Canyon Dam and Lake
Walter's Wiggles
21 tight bends as the path ascends nearly 500 feet Powell within Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, about four miles or 6 km south of Page. Accessible via a 3⁄4-mile (1.2 km) hike from U.S. Route 89, it can be viewed from the steep cliff above. According to Google terrain maps, the overlook is 4200 feet above sea level and the Colorado River is at 3200 feet above sea level making it a breath taking 1000 foot drop.
Do you trust me? Then close your eyes and with your hands on the person in front follow me We stopped the bus just outside the “Grand Canyon National Park” sign to have the group picture taken, whilst doing this a family arrived to have their picture taken too with “Kenny” from “South Park” so of course we joined in with the pictures. We then took off again and when Amanda had parked the tour bus in the car park and we still had no idea where we actually were.
As we got out of the bus Amanda said “Do you trust me?”
“Then close your eyes and with your hands on the person in front follow me “
So with the group in a
long line and arms out in front with step by step moved slowly forward. Now l fill admit that l really wanted to open my eyes but l didn’t. We then came to a stop and one by one Amanda turned us around. With the whole group in place we were told to open our eyes.
With the words “Oh my God” coming from everyone’s lips the view in front of me was truly breathless.
The Grand Canyon is a steep-sided gorge carved by the Colorado River in the United States in the state of Arizona. It is largely contained within the Grand Canyon National Park, one of the first national parks in the United States. President Theodore Roosevelt was a major proponent of preservation of the Grand Canyon area, and visited it on numerous occasions to hunt and enjoy the scenery.
Longstanding scientific consensus has been that the canyon was created by the Colorado River over a six million year period. The canyon is 277 miles (446 km) long, ranges in width from 4 to 18 miles (6.4 to 29 km) and attains a depth of over a mile (1.83 km) (6000 feet). Nearly two billion
years of the Earth's geological history have been exposed as the Colorado River and its tributaries cut their channels through layer after layer of rock while the Colorado Plateau was uplifted. The canyon began in the west, followed by another that formed in the east. Eventually, the two broke through and met as a single majestic rent in the earth some six million years ago. The merger apparently occurred where the river today bends to the west, in the area known as the Kaibab Arch.
Before European immigration, the area was inhabited by Native Americans who built settlements within the canyon and its many caves. The Pueblo people considered the Grand Canyon ("Ongtupqa" in Hopi language) a holy site and made pilgrimages to it. The first European known to have viewed the Grand Canyon was García López de Cárdenas from Spain, who arrived in 1540.
The Grand Canyon is unmatched throughout the world for the vistas it offers to visitors on the rim. It is not the deepest canyon in the world—Yarlung Zangbo Grand Canyon in Tibet, China is far deeper, nor the widest (this is Capertee Valley in Australia - which is about 1 km wider and
longer than Grand Canyon), not to mention the largest — but the Grand Canyon is known for its overwhelming size and its intricate and colorful landscape. Geologically it is significant because of the thick sequence of ancient rocks that are beautifully preserved and exposed in the walls of the canyon. These rock layers record much of the early geologic history of the North American continent.
We spend sometime taking some beautiful pictures of this amazing view and not far from us is a old viewing tower that we all climb and the views higher up give you an even better vantage point.
If you ever get the chance, see the Grand Canyon from the air too During the past year l have been able to experience seeing the world from many different angles, Scuba Diving, Light Aircrafts, Hiking Mountains and deep inside caves. But l have always kept one thing back, and that was to Helicopter over the Grand Canyon.
A few of the group have also wanted to do this to, so we are picked up from a hotel not far from the airfield and are split into two groups. One group doing
a 20 minute flight and myself, Ja and Catherine who had opted for the longer 50 minute experience. We are then joined by a family of 4 from Denmark for are celebrating the fathers birthday.
Once inside the aircraft we are given headphones that enable us to hear and talk to the pilot as well as the rest of the passengers. We then take off and after we get the all clear we make our way over large open plans of grasslands and forests. We are told that we will be flying away from the canyon at first as no aircrafts are allowed to fly over the South Rim, as this will spoil the experience for people on the ground. After about 5 minutes we are then told that the Canyons is approaching and get ready for an amazing feeling. In the distance l could see the edge of the Canyon and with the sound track of Top Gun playing in the background we brace ourselves.
The feeling as we fly off the Canyons edge was as if we were on the biggest drop Rollercoaster. As the earth dropped away from below and the Canyons huge area opened
up. I realised how big the Grand Canyon really is. Being able to see the vastness of the Canyon from the Helicopter too was a true experience that l would recommend to anyone. If you need to save a bit longer or give up something in order to do this, l would urge you all to fly over the Grand Canyon.
As with all the Ultimate Experiences you take all over the world you then can buy the T-Shirt, DVD etc. So inside to meeting area l soon see the DVD of us during the flight. So l ordered this as well as the mounted photograph beside the helicopter with Adam our pilot. All l can say is that l was so glad l waited to do my first Helicopter ride over the Grand Canyon
Wow Wow Wow and a thousand more Wow's over the Grand Canyon Best way to see the Grand Canyon is by walking down it too Our plan for the next day was to wake up early and experience and watch the sunrise over the rim of the Canyon and see the world before us wake up before
us. So an early night at the camp and the plan was to wake up at 4am so that we could be at the viewing platform before the crowds arrive.
Wake up, Wake up we are gonna miss it I awoke and saw that the time was 4am already, so l quickly jumped out of my tent and shouted to everyone to wake up and leave. With most of the group quickly emerging from their tents l thought that we may make it to the rim in time.
"Geoff, its only 3am!!!" Came from one of the tents.
Oops l had forgot to put my watch back one hour since crossing the time zone. Oh well l'm up now so l may as well have breakfast. With the kettle on most of the group appeared with smiles on their faces and sat for breakfast. At least we will be there on time and had breakfast too.
We left the camp on time and soon arrived at the viewing platform about 10 minutes away from the campsite. With the sky still in the dark from still missing sun we looked across the canyon towards
the horizon. With small clouds in the distance we soon saw small pockets of light clipping the clouds. I watched minute by minute as the sun rose to the rim of the canyon and within minutes the canyon came to life with light. The walls of the Canyon started to change from dark brown rock to the bright reds and orange Canyon walls that we had seen the day before.
With the sun making its daily route across the sky we left to make the next leg of this epic journey at the Grand Canyon. We were to walk down the Grand Canyon to see for ourselves the sheer scale of the wonder. The best time to climb down the canyon is really early and with the time not long after 5am we started our walk to rim of the canyon.
Do not walk down to the river, or you have gone too far One of the first things Amanda had told us was that with the extreme heat of the Canyon walking down to the river at the base was a no no. People in the past have either become de-hydrated or even died
Looking down Angels Landing
People stopping for a much needed rest trying to walk down to the river and back to the top in one day. So with that at the back of our minds Susan, Alex, Corola, Gina & Ja opted to walk to Plateau Point which was a 10 to 12 hour return journey. Myself, Tatt & Ellie opted for the 6 hour walk down to the second viewing area.
The walk took us down an amazing route zig-zagging down dusty tracks. With the sun rising bringing its extreme midday heat we made sure we had enough water with us, as well as some cereal bars for more energy. The first land mark on the trail would be the Mile and One Half Resthouse, which is 1,140 feet below the rim at an elevation of 5,720. Whilst sitting down for a much need rest a Mountain goat appeared from above us and once he was comfortable with us being around he soon stopped in front of us to drink from the pool for water made from the tap.
As we descended the horizon began to rise above me. The north rim slowly, the cliffs of the south rim quickly rise up as if shwallowing me whole. Mule
trains are a constant fixture on the Bright Angel as are their "leftovers", which I call "mule mines". Even when not present the mules scent hangs on the trail. When the trains appear they have the right of way and hikers must stay on the inside of the trail until they pass. Close up the mules look hot and sweaty. I always wonder what they make of it all. Do they enjoy it?
After 3 hours we make it to the 3 mile point and stop once again for a much needed rest and something to eat. By now the sun was beating down into the canyon and we soon felt that we should make our way back up before the midday sun became too much.
Walking back up soon became harder and harder with each twist and turn of the dusty route back towards the summit and it did not take long before quick 2 minute stops were needed to catch your breath or a sip of water. As we got nearer and nearer to the top we were all amazed at the number of people just starting the trek down the canyon with the extreme heat
of the sun beating down on them. A few times we even asked people it they had enough water with them.
By midday we had made it back to the rim of the canyon and soon heading towards to cafe area for a ice cold drink and something to eat. But even with my t-shirt dripping from sweat l was over the moon that l had walked down this truly amazing wonder and experienced the journey for myself.
Another reason we had opted to only do the 6 hour trek was that the Grand Canyon National Park were holding free photography classes not far from the campsite. So the three of us quickly made our was to the camp for a much needed shower before heading towards the area holding the class. With showers and a change of clothes out of the way we began the short walk towards the shuttle bus. All of a sudden the heavens opened up and the biggest thunder and lightning storm took us by surprise. Running for shelter from the downpour it was soon clear that we would not make it to the class and we were sure that it would have
been cancelled too. So with the storm slowly clearing we opted to go for lunch and relax after our great day and wait for the rest of the group to make their way back to camp before dinner that evening.
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Renee
non-member comment
WOW!!!
It has been years since I have been there, yet it is still just as beautiful as I remember. Amazing! Missing you!