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Published: July 4th 2008
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Well...

There we were riding in our chauffeured car zipping through the backroads of Chelsea like only Kristin could. I was half asleep as we purposely stayed up late in order to sleep on the plane and try to get on SE Asia time.

Got to the airport...no problem (end Eric)...boarded the plane...no problem...prepared for take off and after twenty minutes or so of taxiing...BIG problem. There appeared to be some mechanical issue, as in the "nose" of the plane was only steering in one direction. We inevitably had to deplane and return to the terminal to figure out an alternate plan. Needless to say after a couple of hours in line with an extremely (truly) helpful American Arilines rep we were rebooked on a flight for 6:30pm that evening, putting us about 3/4 of a day behind schedule. We took the opportunity to go back home and take some articles out of our decidedly too heavy backpacks. Fast forward several hours later after our blase Boston to LA flight we find ourselves pleasantly surprised with the luxe accomodations of our 13+ hour flight from LA to Tapei,Tawain. Lesson learned: much patience, a good sense of humor, and not having to check your bags at LAX's international terminal just might get you an upgrade to the very comfy, cozy, and spacious Elite Class of EVA airlines. A lovely second start to our travels.

Of course after that delightful experience, the last leg of the trip, the 4 hour flight to Denpasar (Bali) in Economy class of China Air left something to be desired. Tired and mildly nauseaus, but without incident we arrived on Bali around 2:30pm local time. And now the fun begins...

Our original plan was to splurge on a couple of nights at a posh and completly tourist hyped beach front four star hotel for some R&R and a chance to accclamate/overindulge ourselves and figure out the game plan before heading out into less chartered territory. Trying to secure a reservation for a few nights before depature proved a bit frustrating and arduous. We settled on what appeared (via pics on the internet) to be a simple, yet perfectly lovely poolside hotel with only a few minutes walk to the famed Kuta beach. With images of our romantic beachside bungalow with sweeping ocean views, in house massage, basic ameniteis and the like having quickly waned, we could only now be hopeful. As our taxi from the airport took us tottering through the narrow, crowded, and overly commercialized, "so apparently not near the beach" streets of Kuta in Southern Bali and the obvious arm pit of an island that is otherwise known for its beautiful sand beaches, rugged coastline and world class surf we became less so.

We were already on the verge of disappointment as the taxi inched its way through a narrow alleyway and then stopped amidst four or five other parked cars crammed in the front of our hotel. We checked in and were shown the way to our room, nicely tucked away from the street and opening up to the courtyard/pool. Upon closer inspection of the room, its obvious lack luster appearance, cracked walls, dim lighting and unclean bedding (beyond the comforter we all know is washed like once a year) cast a dark cloud over that initial last hope. When the less than half hour poolside in dirty loungers did nothing to soothe or improve our weary and much disappointed traveler's mood we thought a walk in search of the beach along some busy shop laden streets would help us "find our feet". And find our feet we did, amidst the sewage stenched sidewalks and narrow alleyway where one must compete for their life with speeding motorbikes and cars going in either direction at any one time.

A twenty minute walk later found us crossing the street to toward the muffled sounds of the surf. Somwhere beyond the loud, rowdy crowds of Australian drunkards and surfers on holiday there is a beach. The sand is not white, the water not very clear, and and the odds of being strangled by an unassuming child's kite string high. After walking through the beachfront hotel we had hoped to stay at (oddly enough the sister hotel our dirty digs) and being told they were still book up til the end of July we made a conscious decision to get the ___ out of dodge as Kuta was not scene for us. Eric likened the scene to Ko San Road in Bangkok and I was overcome with flashbacks of a long ago spontaneous jaunt to Tiajuana. I mean if your looking for a subpar cancun (minus the pristine beaches) like craze complete with all the home comforts of the golden arches and Pizza Hut enhanced by the booming bass of our belove white rapper Emminem then by all means come to Kuta.

Okay I'm being told to wrap it up as Eric has just found beachside hotel with rooms in the more calm, peaceful, and I think what we're looking for, coastal town of Sanur about forty minutes away. Till next time.

Stephanie


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4th July 2008

Ahhh....Bali....
Hi Eric and Stephanie! First....let me tell you that I am decidedly envious - my long term "semi-secret": I have wanted to go to Bali since I first read about it when I was 8 years old! (it's only a semi-secret because most everyone who knows me, knows this factoid :) Anyway....so glad to hear that you are there, albeit with a rough start. Not to worry - that just means that everything is up from here on! Gia and I are so happy to be able to follow you along on your journey - always amused by Eric's colorful commentary! And Stephanie - it looks like yours will be just as colorful, so we're excited to hear more! Stay safe, stay healthy, have a ball and take lots of pictures!! xo, Suze and Gia
4th July 2008

The weary travelers
Wow! What an ordeal from Boston to your first day in "paradise". This is an omen that things can only get better. Stephanie's writing is magnificent. I could almost smell the stench and feel the raging traffic reading her words. This will be a great virtual trip for those of us following this blog If this is any indication of future descriptive writings. Good luck and hope by now you have rested with views of a real beach and visions of paradise. The adventure has begun! Gabe
4th July 2008

Bali
The key phrase: go with the flow. Can´t believe you stayed in Kuta! Don´t worry, it´s uphill all the way from there. Black sand beaches all over Bali, but Lomboc has white sand beaches. Are you going to go to Komodo? Happy 4th and happy travels. mike
4th July 2008

Pizza Hut
Glad you cats arrived safe and sound! These blogs will definitely keep me entertained for awhile. You're right about the unclean bedding...after houseskeeping i'll never sleep in a hotel bed again. Just kidding! Love you both, stay safe and wash those hands! love, linds
4th July 2008

Isn't this what makes traveling so exicitng! It's the hunt of the "off the beaten path" places that makes your journey so memorable and satisfying. I can't wait to hear where you end up!
4th July 2008

After reading this blog I've decided to NOT bring any reading material with me on my own trip, as your blog is already leaving me wanting more. Keep'em coming!
5th July 2008

Mike Allen's Hotels
Stephanie and Eric You guys should have went with Mike Allen to Brazil you should see the hotels that he's staying at!!!!!Just kidding Kevin

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