Key West 2006

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This was a weeklong mother-daughter vacation in mid-December. We took the KEY WEST EXPRESS ferry leaving Fort Myers at 9AM, arriving 3 1/2 hours later. While a shorter trip than driving, it's still a long time on a boat. Take a book, cards, board games, or a DVD player, IPOD- something to help pass the time. Of course if you are so inclined, there is a bar on board.

I'm a big fan of B&B's and we got a great rate at the MERLIN GUEST HOUSE. 811 Simonton Street in the Old Town area. It was an off-peak week, so they upgraded our room to one that gave us a nice sitting area. The B&B comes with some history- it's a one-time bordello. The rooms were nice, it was a close walk to Duval Street and had a nice little pool. Only downside was that it only offered a modest continental breakfast ...and it was the same selection every day.

Duval is the main street and is a mix of bars, restaurants and shops. Mallory Square is at one end- where the Ferry and the Cruise ships come in- and is the most touristy part. The Southernmost Point is at the other end.

Start out with a ride on the "World Famous" CONCH TOUR TRAIN leaving from Front Street near Mallory Square. It's a 90 minute narrated tour of the island that shows you places you might not discover otherwise. Worth the time and the $.

Our favorite restaurants were:
BOTTEGA (a great little Italian deli across the street from the B&B with free delivery)
SARABETH'S....a short walk from the B&B, a historic building with a nice outdoor eating area.
EL MASON DE PEPE near Mallory Square for "conch Cuban" food. Be sure to check out the "sculpture garden" nearby. It's a bunch of bronze heads on pillars...apparently busts of famous Key Westers.
THE UPPER CRUST on Duval for pizza
BlUE HEAVEN where the outside tables are on dirt floors with live chickens as part of the decor. A great place for lunch or to have an afternoon drink at the outside bar when you need a break from all the walking.

If you have a rainy day...or three like we did, take in a movie at the TROPIC CINEMA at 416 Eaton Street, a quaint movie house with two screens.

Do a hot sauce tasting at PEPPERS OF KEY WEST at 602 Greene Street or try a wine tasting at THE KEY WEST WINERY, 103 Simonton Street. Key Lime, Mango and other tropical flavors. Yum.

One of the favorite things we did was to visit the BUTTERFLY & NATURE CONSERVATORY. It's at the far end of Duval, one block north of the Southernmost Point. The conservatory is like a magical garden that challenge your photo-taking skills as you try to capture just the right combination of butterflies and tropical flowers. Another great way to spend a rainy day....or just get away from the craziness of Duval Street.

Everyone HAS to stop at the SOUTHERNMOST POINT and take the obligatory tourist photo. At this point, you are only 90 miles from Cuba. At the other end of the island, you can also find MILE MARKER 0 for another fun photo op.

An attempt at driving mini-bikes was unsuccessful so we turned them in for bicycles. You can get either at the MOPED HOSPITAL at 601 Truman Avenue. We rode to FORT ZACHARY STATE PARK and spent a nice, quiet day on the beach. Take a picnic or eat at the concession stand.

The KEY WEST LIGHTHOUSE is at 938 Whitehead Street. It was built in 1847 and gives you a good cardio workout on the way up (88 steps to the top!)and then a great view of the island.

Another of our favorite things was going on THE ORIGINAL GHOST TOUR. A raspy-voiced guide led us on a walk through the old town with stops and stories along the way. Lots of fun.

We saw a flyer for a comedian's show at the La Concha hotel on Duval street.. It was a tiny room with only a handful of people in the audience. The show consisted of a routine that played off the comedian's slide show of things he's found on his travels as he bikes around the country. My daughter dubbed him THE SMELLY BICYCLE COMEDIAN because he .....well...smelled like he had just finished a long, hot ride and in fact he had his bike there with him, so maybe he HAD pulled into Key West just in time for the show. We were amused to think this guy apparently makes a living at this. But don't expect to see him on the Tonight Show any time soon.

One morning while my daughter was still sleeping I got up early and walked to the KEY WEST CEMETERY. Look for the monument that says "I told you I was sick"and the beautiful statues throughout.

Another must is a visit to MALLORY SQUARE to celebrate the sunset and watch the street performers. It's what Pier 60 in Clearwater is trying to be.

Whether you only have a few hours off the Cruise ship...or get to spend a week like we did, Key West has a lot to offer beyond the elements that give it its racy reputation. 5 days is probably just the right amount of time to get your fill.

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