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Published: August 9th 2007
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Alaska Highway Milepost 779: Teslin, Yukon Pop.411
We visited the Teslin Tlingit Heritage Centre. There was a movie that we watched about their history and then exhibits that we toured. They were traders long before the Russians or other outsiders arrived and wanted to trade. The Centre had enough information to be satisfying, but not so much that it was overwhelming.
Alaska Highway Milepost 784: Mukluk Annies Salmon Bake
We stopped here for our evening meal and both had the salmon. It’s cooked over wood coals and has a great flavor. There are a lot of bones in it, but that didn’t keep us from enjoying it. This is the kind of restaurant that seats people together to fill up the tables. We enjoyed the company of the other people at the table and all are heading to Alaska, just with different itineraries. It seems that many people are heading to the northern sites first and then to the southern attractions. We’re doing it in the opposite direction due to some things that George has read.
At Mukluk Annies with the purchase of dinner it also includes a free boat ride after dinner and free dry camping.
We took advantage of both. The boat ride was with Mukluk Charlie on his houseboat. The mascot was his dog which is part black lab and part wolf. He’s an older dog and after all these years he still paces up and down the boat trying to locate the sounds that the water makes underneath the boat.
Deviation from Alaska Highway: Klondike Highway
We headed for Carcross. It used to be called Caribou Crossing, as this was where they crossed at a narrow water area connecting two lakes. We had planned to camp elsewhere, but the mosquitoes were way too dense. Instead we settled into dry camping in the woods next to the airport. The air traffic isn’t very heavy, so we haven’t been disturbed by the sounds. The runway is not paved and it’s the smaller planes that take off and land. We’re seeing more and more small runways and seaplanes. This area is so large that it makes sense to travel by plane when possible.
We spent two nights dry camping, but then moved to the campground/gas station/store/Laundromat/restaurant for two more nights with full hook-up and occasional WiFi.
Carcross, Yukon pop.446
We
went this morning to see the First People’s Performances present “How Raven Brought Light into the World.” The normal price was $15/person, but today was a day of political action for the aboriginal peoples of Canada, so there was a special presentation connected to the protest with no charge. APTN (Aboriginal People Television Network) and CBC were there to tape the performance and the protest afterwards. We enjoyed the performance, and learning about the different culture of the Tlingit and Tagish through one of their stories. The singing, drumming and dancing were interesting. The costumes were fascinating and beautiful. Unfortunately our camera had exhausted batteries, so we weren’t able to take any photos. They also served bannock and tea. The bannock reminded us of beignets, but with a different kind of sugar instead of the powdered sugar. They were a nice treat. Their website is: www.firstpeoplesperformances.com
Dyea, Alaska
We wanted to make it to the Dyea historic site by 2pm for a Ranger walk and realized part way there that we weren’t going to make it. Eventually we came to the sign saying we were in a different time zone, so we had plenty of time to get
to the tour. We enjoyed the tour through the forest where the town used to be. During the gold rush there were 5,000-8,000 people here. There were 150 businesses in 1898. After the summer of 1898 only 500 people remained. There used to be fine hotels, attorneys, undertakers, photographers, etc. We saw remnants of the town and the Ranger had pictures of what the town used to look like in its heyday. Before the walk began, she told us about what to do if we encounter a bear, as they do frequent the area. Also that both black and brown bears are in the area which is unusual. On our walk there was evidence of torn-up logs where they had been looking for grubs, and of course piles of scat.
Chilkoot Trail
We walked a little ways on the Chilkoot Trail. It was all uphill and that was just the easy beginning. We just had to place our feet into a few historical footsteps from the gold rush era. The people who did the trail in 1898 had to bring a ton (one year’s supply) of goods over the pass to be allowed into Canada. They would make
Desert and Mountains
Near Carcross, Yukon many trips carrying heavy packs over the “Golden Staircase” to reach Bennett Lake. Here they would need to build a boat or raft and possibly wait for the ice to melt before tackling the lakes and the Yukon River to get to the Klondike. Most found no pot of gold at the end of their desperate quest.
Skagway, Alaska
It was a brief stop here for groceries, gas, and a quilt store. Yes we did get a Verizon signal here and George was able to pick up phone messages and make some calls. Unfortunately with the time difference, I didn’t dare call anyone. Plus I can be a lot longer on the phone than George and we really needed to head back to reassure our dogs that they would get dinner, just 4 hours late.
There is one gas station in Skagway, so prices don’t need to be listed, as there is no comparison shopping. It was $3.742/Gal.US. In the one grocery store the prices were high, but not as high as we have been paying. Also it was exciting as they had Coke in glass bottles. I’ve been very frugal with my Coke, saving the ones
in glass bottles for special occasions.
Wildlife
On the drive home from Skagway, we saw our first in flight bald eagle. It was majestic! We saw our first black bear along the road outside of Teslin. It was unconcerned by the cars either driving by, or stopping.
There are all kinds of flying insects that want to bite us. Mosquitoes are pretty routine, but I have even saved one, to show George, because it was unusually big. Something bit my chin while we were working on the windshield. It was different from the usual mosquito bite as it bled more. Then it started to swell. By the morning I had half of a fat lower lip, half swollen chin and the swelling was extending up my jaw. I really looked funny. I ended up taking Benedryl and after a few doses it appeared to be getting slightly better. I wish I knew what bit me and if that was just a normal reaction to it.
Windshield
Our car’s windshield has a small starburst rock crack. It must have happened somewhere between hooking -up the car in Watson Lake Monday morning and unhooking it Tuesday afternoon.
Chilkoot Trail
The beginning and easy part. This picture does not capture the incline of the trail. We have in our supplies a crack repair kit that we bought at Wal-Mart for under $10. It had been recommended by a woman we met in Texas who was well traveled in her RV. It was worth a try and we were skeptical during most of the process, but it worked!!! My windshield looks great and if it keeps it from spidering any further that will be wonderful. After our Texas experience we don’t want to get any repairs done that aren’t absolutely necessary.
Television
We have 2 channels here and have been enjoying brief glimpses into broadcast decisions for this market area. One channel is APTN and that has been fascinating. Today I watched an Inuit cooking show. Unfortunately for me it was in their native language and even the recipes that were put up on the screen were not in any measurement I could understand. We did watch a brief show about one of the Ojibwa legends.
Plans
Heading to Whitehorse.
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Olivia
non-member comment
Hello!
Wow, it looks like you guys are having a really fun adventure! All the pictures look beautiful, I really like those totem poles. That wall kind of reminds me of the Westurn Wall in Jeruselem. Have a great time! Love, Olivia