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Whenever I was asked about our timeline for arriving in Alaska, or for touring the state, I always answered that we were kind of freestyling it with the exception of one day that was already booked – 31 May – and we would not miss that day. Last year we found a good early booking deal including a round-trip train ride from Anchorage to Whittier and the Prince William Sound Glacier Cruise with a full meal-deal of Prime Rib and baked Salmon. What a great choice we made. The train ride was exceptional with the Alaska Railroad providing a “tour guide” on PA as we made the 2 hour passage along the Turnagain Arm, through the valleys and forests that make up the Chugach National Forest only to pop out on the other side of the 2.5 mile train/car tunnel and arrive in Whittier surrounded by the Kenai Fjords National Park. Over half of this national park is covered by ice and the only way to see it is by boat or plane as very few roads exist within the park itself. We were fortunate to be seeing it by the water in a great boat with and exceptional crew and
an onboard National Park Ranger. After the compulsory safety brief (Don’t go for a swim, the water is very cold and you will die!!), we motor over to the Black Legged Kittiwake rookery for a close view of thousands of the nesting birds. They nest on the south facing slopes, near fresh water, where they can let the sun help keep their eggs warm while they dive for food in the fjord. There vast numbers keep the ever present Bald Eagles at bay with multiple Kittiwake attacks when they get to close. It’s now time for lunch as we motor to see the glaciers, and it was great. The salmon was perfect and the prime rib you could cut with a fork. Besides, by then we were starving. Along the way the Park Ranger pointed out the Valley Glaciers (like an enormous white tongue flowing down a valley) and the Piedmont Glaciers (a valley glacier that forms a large loop of ice in the front) but of course we were after the Tidewater Glaciers (where the glacier reaches the ocean). We arrived at the first one, the Beloit Glacier and we were surrounded by small icebergs which smacked the side
of the steel hull making the boat ring like a large old bell. I will tell you here, and I cannot say it enough, you cannot get a sense of the size of these glaciers from the pictures. When you pull up within a quarter mile from the front of the glacier and it raises 700 feet above your head it is impossible to capture that in one frame. It’s hard to even process it. When the captain pulls up, shuts down the motor and you drift among the flows you get a feeling of just how small you are and how small the boat actually is compared to this natural wonder. Unfortunately the Beloit Glacier did not calve while we were there but the crew collected some of the floating ice, chipped it up and Glaceritas were on the menu as we made our way to the Blackstone Glacier. When we arrived at Blackstone there was another cruise boat on station so I got one picture just as a frame of reference. This boat is over 100 ft long with three observation decks. We did not get as close to this glacier and from the pictures you can see
many overhangs that look ominous and could go at any moment. Blackstone did calve, four times, but mostly small pieces, about the size of a small car. What was incredible were the sound it made, deep groans like thunder and loud pops sounding like shotgun blasts filled the canyon, echoing off the walls and the water. We waited a long while for “the big one” but our time ran out and some other lucky tour will get that experience. On our trip back we found one lone humpback whale that was surge feeding near the shore but we never got close enough for a really good picture. It’s early for whales anyway so maybe when we go out of Seward we will see more. As we came back in I put the camera away and spent the rest of the trip taking in the sights and reliving the experience. If you ever get to Alaska, this is just a must do. P.S. – This morning as I was downloading pictures and Michelle was on her computer in the main living area and I hear her yell THAT’s A BEAR. Sure enough we had a bear in camp, a big bear.
As I rushed to the back to get the camera, it was RIGHT THERE at the back window looking in. I did get some pictures but the one you see is the best. It was taken out of the kitchen window. That picnic table is about 10 feet from the front door, we will not be cooking outside anymore.
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Diane
non-member comment
Beautiful Pictures!! You guys are living out everyone's dream.