Advertisement
Canadas flagPublished: December 3rd 2008North America » Canada » Manitoba » Wapusk National Park
December 2nd 2008

Hi everybody.

The last few weeks out on the frozen wastelands of northern Manitoba were incredible! Huge numbers of bears came by the camp and waited for the bay to freeze over. A mother and cubs would keep their distance from a pair of sparring males, but then they were gone! The ice formed over night as a crisp minus 20 rolled in from the north, within hours the bears were gone.. I guess there was no point in staying if the bears weren't there, so we decided to dismantle the camp and haul it out to Cape Churchill (Cape) in Wapusk National Park 35kms to the east. The park has a very high concentration of bears who have learnt not to migrate to the town of Churchill because it is more energy efficient to stay in the park until the sea freezes there (which is normally about 10 days later because of the currents). So we started to dismantle the camp at 6am and then drive out to Wapusk N.P. We drove in blizzard conditions for 10 hours before we got to Cape. It took that long because there were a couple of soft spots where we all got stuck and had to be towed out by the utility vehicles, buggy 17 crashed through the ice on a frozen lake, and the staff accommodation trailer slid off its chassis (nothing that a bit of weld couldn't fix though)! Then we set up camp in a white-out at night in minus 25 with a howling gale in prime polar bear country! It went surprisingly smooth actually, within 2 hours we had everyone on the camp awaiting supper. While the girls dished out a tasty "bison bolognese", the mechanics and I had to thaw a few frozen waterlines and fix a few panels that got rattled loose, but otherwise the lodge was in great shape.
The following 8 days were almost beyond words! Lots of fights between the big boys, lots of mothers and cubs. Arctic foxes and snowy owls. Beautiful sunrises and sunsets, mind-blowing northern lights!!!! And a fog-bow!
The amazing ice formations on the sea as the tide lifted and smashed the ice sheets into each other, and to witness the bears as they ran onto the ice to their winter hunting ground... And then they were gone too!
The guests left the next day. We stayed an extra
sparringsparring
sparring

At this time of the year, the bears figure each other out so that when the fighting is for real during breeding season, they know who they have a good chance against.
day to clean up, dismantle and haul the camp back to Churchill......
Back in town.... It was an odd feeling to be back in Churchill (or anywhere for that matter) after spending 7 weeks on a lodge in the middle of nowhere on the edge of the Canadian arctic. It was a nice feeling. After dropping my buggy off at the Tundra Buggy yard, I ran along the main street throwing snow balls at my co-workers. With no real need to worry about being eaten by a polar bear (even though they do come into town sometimes) I felt totally free. Being on the ground has never felt so good...! Ordering a cold beer from the bar felt pretty good too...
The hotel in Churchill was perfect... My own little space... For the first time in 7 weeks I could actually put my feet up and relax... Two days later I landed in Winnipeg.
It's amazing what an extended time in relative isolation can do to you, so I spent a night in The Peg brushing up on my somewhat rusty social skills. They seem to be in good shape after chatting up a storm at M.E.C (outdoor equipment store) and getting two pairs of boots for half price......
On the Sunday, I caught the train back to Sioux Lookout... A 6 hour ride from the prairie to the boreal forest and the land of a million lakes...

Signing off for now, Dave.



There are more photos below
Photos: 24
Displayed: 24


Advertisement

Theresa Crann and Dave Allcorn
We are world travellers who are living in Churchill, Manitoba, Canada. We are both diagonally parked in a parallel universe and have a passion for the world and its amazing places and faces. We hope these blogs can be enjoyed by many like-minded people. You only spin around the sun so many times - get out there and see stuff before you miss your ride! ... full info
JoinedFebruary 14th 2008 Trips12
Last LoginMay 12th 2013 Followers9
StatusBLOGGER Follows0
Blogs142 Guestbook383
Photos2,529 Forum Posts6
Blog Options
Canada
Canada mapCanada flag
A land of vast distances and rich natural resources, Canada became a self-governing dominion in 1867 while retaining ties to the British crown. Economically and technologically the nation has developed in parallel with the US, its neighbor to the sou...more info
Advertisement

Edit This Title

SvalbardSpainUnited States of AmericaAntarcticaSouth GeorgiaFalkland IslandsBoliviaPeruEcuadorColombiaVenezuelaGuyanaSurinameFrench GuianaBrazilParaguayUruguayArgentinaChileGreenlandCanadaUnited States of AmericaUnited States of AmericaIsraelJordanCyprusQatarUnited Arab EmiratesOmanYemenSaudia ArabiaIraqAfghanistanTurkmenistanIranSyriaSingaporeChinaMongoliaPapua New GuineaBruneiIndonesiaMalaysiaMalaysiaTiawanPhilippinesVietnamCambodiaLaosThailandBurmaBangladeshSri LankaIndiaBhutanNepalPakistanAfghanistanTurkmenistanTajikistanKyrgyzstanUzbekistanJapanNorth KoreaSouth KoreaRussiaKazakhstanRussiaMontenegroPortugalAzerbaijanArmeniaGeorgiaUkraineMoldovaBelarusRomaniaBulgariaMacedoniaSerbiaBosonia & HerzegovinaTurkeyGreeceAlbaniaCroatiaHungarySlovakiaSloveniaMaltaSpainPortugalSpainFranceItalyItalyAustriaSwitzerlandBelgiumFranceIrelandUnited KingdomNorwaySwedenFinlandEstoniaLatviaLithuaniaRussiaPolandCzech RepublicGermanyDenmarkThe NetherlandsIcelandEl SalvadorGuatemalaPanamaCosta RicaNicaraguaHondurasBelizeMexicoTrinidad & TobagoPuerto RicoDominican RepublicHaitiJamaicaThe BahamasCubaVanuatuAustraliaSolomon IslandsFijiNew CaledoniaNew ZealandEritreaEthiopiaDjiboutiSomaliaKenyaUgandaTanzaniaRwandaBurundiMadagascarNamibiaBotswanaSouth AfricaLesothoSwazilandZimbabweMozambiqueMalawiZambiaAngolaDemocratic Repbulic of CongoRepublic of CongoGabonEquatorial GuineaCentral African RepublicCameroonNigeriaTogoGhanaBurkina FassuCote d'IvoireLiberiaSierra LeoneGuineaGuinea BissauThe GambiaSenegalMaliMauritaniaNigerWestern SaharaSudanChadEgyptLibyaTunisiaMoroccoAlgeria
Map Legend: 22%, 58 of 263 Territories
 Where we've lived 
 Where we've been 


AlbaniaArgentinaAustraliaAustriaBotswanaBelgiumBelizeBosnia and HerzegovinaBulgariaCanadaCongo, Democratic Republic of theChileCosta RicaEcuadorEgyptIrelandEl SalvadorEthiopiaCzech RepublicFranceGreenlandGermanyGreeceGuatemalaHondurasCroatiaIcelandItalyJordanKenyaKorea, SouthLesothoMalawiMontenegroMacedonia, The Former Yugoslav Republic ofMoroccoMexicoMalaysiaMozambiqueNetherlandsNicaraguaNew ZealandPeruPanamaSerbiaSouth AfricaSloveniaSudanSyriaSwitzerlandTurkeyTanzaniaUgandaUnited KingdomUnited StatesNamibiaZambiaZimbabwe

Trips
Pre-blog Travels & Journeys Through Africa.
May 1st 1999 -» February 1st 2007
Canada Trip
March 29th 2008 -» September 1st 2008
On the Shores of Hudson Bay
September 3rd 2008 -» November 30th 2008
New York City
May 14th 2009 -» May 20th 2009
Iceland and Greenland
May 21st 2009 -» June 25th 2009
Churchill 2009.
July 1st 2009 -» December 4th 2009
Greece, Albania and the former Yugoslavia.
December 27th 2009 -» March 3rd 2010
Northwestern Ontario and James Bay.
March 4th 2010 -» May 31st 2010
Churchill 2010
June 1st 2010 -» January 10th 2011
Peru and Ecuador
January 12th 2011 -» April 13th 2011
Churchill 2011
May 1st 2011 -» December 10th 2011
Central American Journey.
December 11th 2011 -» April 24th 2012

Blogged From
Visited Countries
TravelBlog Awards





Fog bowFog bow
Fog bow

A rare sight! Fog bows are a bit like rainbows, but fog particles are a lot smaller than rain particles and therefore only white light is (usually) reflected.
CuriousCurious
Curious

This guy was trying his hardest to get into the lodge.
Protecting her cubsProtecting her cubs
Protecting her cubs

Mother bears will fight to the death to protect their young (which is counter productive), but can usually chase off much bigger males with ease.
Love biteLove bite
Love bite

Twin sisters growing up.
The frozen tundraThe frozen tundra
The frozen tundra

A seemingly endless expanse of tundra.
On a frozen lakeOn a frozen lake
On a frozen lake

This is where we got our daily water at Cape Churchill. We had to hack our way through 2ft of ice.
Snuggled upSnuggled up
Snuggled up

This mother is very thin. She probably wont make it into hunting season without abandoning her cubs. Nature seems so cruel sometimes, as the cubs will then die.
With Guests.With Guests.
With Guests.

We tended to hangout in the lounge at nights.
Sunrise at Cape ChurchillSunrise at Cape Churchill
Sunrise at Cape Churchill

This is the Cape Churchill weather and observation tower. Originally built by the military during the cold war.
The Tundra  Buggy LodgeThe Tundra  Buggy Lodge
The Tundra Buggy Lodge

In the captivating and remote Wapusk National Park. Wapusk is the Cree Indian word for 'white bear'. The Inuit people of the Canadian Arctic call the polar bear 'Nanuq'.
A family walkA family walk
A family walk

On the edge of the frozen Hudson Bay
Amazing creatures Amazing creatures
Amazing creatures

I was always amazed by them. The kings of the arctic.
Arctic foxArctic fox
Arctic fox

A very shy animal and usually nocturnal.
About to haulAbout to haul
About to haul

We packed up and headed back to churchill which took 12 hours
In WinnipegIn Winnipeg
In Winnipeg

Having not seen trees or street lights for a while, I thought this was quite the contrast from the previous months.





Comments
Date: 15th December 2008

WOW!!!
Wow, wow, wow!! Stunning photos of polar bears - you are so lucky to have seen such amazing creatures. Thanks for sharing your travels and beautiful photographs. :)

From Blog: Wapusk
Date: 31st May 2010

I love it
I fell in love with the cubs and the bears!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

From Blog: Wapusk
Date: 7th July 2010


These photos are amazing - i'm going to canada in the near future and i will be really pleased if i get half as good photos as the ones you've got here - nice work!

From Blog: Wapusk
Date: 4th November 2011

if its a love bite then...
....why the bear has blood everywhere on her face?

From Blog: Wapusk
Date: 14th November 2011

love bite
they had been eating a seal a few hours earlier

From Blog: Wapusk




Tot: 0.117s; Tpl: 0.015s; cc: 15; qc: 37; dbt: 0.0205s; 1; s:apollo w:www (50.28.60.10); sld: 1; ; mem: 6.6mb