Turkey - Istanbul and Gallipoli

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Turkey; Istanbul, Gallipoli, Troy and Canakkale

We had left Australia on a daytime flight, staying at KL overnight before a daytime flight to Oman for a few days. After Oman, we headed to Jordan and then onto Israel. Our commentaries on these destinations can be found Israel, Jordan and Oman.



When planning this trip, we thought we'd stay in the (sort of) Middle East and hence visit Istanbul (it had been on the bucket list for a while). We also felt compelled to go visit Gallipoli.



As always, if you want to see the picture in a larger size, just click on it.

Day 1 - 19 May; Arrival

When booking our flight, the destination was Attaturk (the international airport for Istanbul). A month before we arrived, the government changed the location to Havilimani some 75km from our hotel. They also increased the visa cost to A$120 pp!!! On opening, the rail line is still a year away from completion. For us, this was a blessing. The government has provided a bus that for A$5 took us very swiftly to quite close to our hotel.



We couldn’t get a direct flight to Istanbul from Tel Aviv; maybe it was because it was the Sabbeth and maybe also because Eurovision was in full swing. In any event, we could only get a late in the day flight from Tel Aviv to Athens, an overnight near the airport and an early flight to Istanbul. Thus, we arrived at about 10am.



After checking in, we went wandering. With our hotel being in the ‘old’ city (as is the location for most tourists), we were close to all the historical (Muslim) attractions, the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sofia, Topkani Palace and more. We’d read about a multi-pass that enabled access to most attractions; but, while good value they certainly don’t come cheap. As the Blue Mosque was closed to Infadels because it was Ramaden and a midday prayer service was being held, we went looking to buy 2 Museum passes. With so many touts in the main square, all being very friendly and courtious, we asked one who replied “I can take you there”. Along the way the conversation turned to “I have a friend who wholesales Persian carpets, can I take you there - it’s along the way - he won’t want you to buy, he’s not that sort of person” ... Eventually we rescinded and went to the carpet store. As good as they may have been, the prices were more amazing. A$2000 for rug about 2 metres square “shipped to your home in Australia at no cost”!!!



We eventually took our leave, were taken to where we could buy the Museum pass outlet beside the Great Palace Mosaics Museum. We bought and visited. The Mosaics had been unearthed a while ago. The structure had been a large Roman administration building and entirely ‘plastered’ with mosaics (floors, walls, etc.). While the repair work isn’t as good as others we’d seen in other countries, being in situ certainly provided a perspective. While some of the best mosaics we’d seen were religious, these showed scenes of rural enjoyment.



We followed into the Blue Mosque and while it was large and had lots of tiles over the walls and ceiling, it wasn’t anything special.



Across the garden square lies Hagia Sofia. This had been on our ‘bucket list’ for years (and perhaps the instigator for us selecting Istanbul as a destination). And, it didn’t disappoint. Massive is an understatement. It’s ginormeous! It is also a huge statement about the superficiality that is Islamic architecture (and maintenance).



Hagia Sophia was built progressively during the Roman era, around the time of Constantine (both 1 & 2). It became the seat of the Eastern 'branch' of the Roman Empire - referred to as the Byzantine Empire; nowadays, this 'branch is known as Orthodox or Coptic. After a massive fire, in 532 Emperor Justinian ordered a rebuild (into the current shape), but again, successive leaders exercising their will (especially the Crusaders) or geological activities witnessed the Justinian ‘modifications’ to fall into decline. Apparently it was in a bad way when Ottoman leader Mehmet II came bursting in around 1450AD. After looting and pillaging, it was converted into a mosque. History suggests most repairs were focussed to prevent the structure deteriorating further. Unlike Christian places of worship, little suggests the interiors were refurbished to express the values of the Islamist’s (unlike the interior of the Blue Mosque) - save for a few huge (7.5m diameter) shields erected on the central pillars. In 1935, President Ataturk (1st President on modern Turkey) ordered the structure to be a museum for all.



Having been sufficiently impressed at the scale of the building, it was time to head back to our hotel and prepare for dinner. Returning to our hotel, we lost count of the number of times someone asked us if we’d like to buy a carpet. Dinner was at a ‘traditional’ Anatolian restaurant (Anatolia being the western or Asian part of Turkey). We’d seen on Tripadvisor it had No. 1 billing. The specialty was Teste - food cooked in a clay pot (casserole) and when ready to be eaten the clay pot is ceremoniously broken with a sword. Sadly, the reason why westerners so loved the place (on Tripadvisor) is that they had dumbed down the flavours and increased the meat portion at the expense of vegetables. Oh, well!

Day 2: Topkapi and...

Topkapi Palace is located beside Hagia Sophia and was the ‘home’ for the early Ottoman rulers (Mehmet II and beyond) between construction in 16th century to the 19th century. A new Palace was built on the waterfront a few km’s away, and the more modern structure was preferred. Built on a peninsular, Topkapi was both a royal ‘palace’, and the administrative headquarters for the empire. It became a museum with the fall of the Ottoman Empire at WW2.



In it’s heyday it comprised 4 rectangular courtyards each serving a different purpose (ambassadorial, administrative, royal residence and treasury). The complex also housed a huge kitchen and an even more impressive Harem. The ceramic tiles and mosaics were both everywhere to be seen and also delightfully alluring to the eye.



While we were astonished at the ‘no expense spared’ approach to building design and adornment, we reflected that the ultra wealthy of modern day capitalism do exactly the same. And, again while we noted the use of slaves as labourers (to build, maintain and serve), perhaps we ought reconsider whether we are but slaves of capitalism. And, the freedoms we assume for ourselves are - in reality - so limited as to be worth little.



We left the Harem to last, and were gobsmacked at the culture of patriarchy, privilege and passion exercised within the walls we wandered. With the sheer number of women being ‘entertained’, we wondered how the Sultan could have time to ‘rule’ the empire.



Departing the Palace, we headed to the wharf to take a ferry over the Golden Horn (a large body of water of the Bosporos separating north and south Istanbul into ‘old’ and ‘new’). Preferring a ferry to a tram, we made and error that the boat would properly dock at Karakoy (suburb on other side). It didn’t and we only realised as the vessel motored away from the minimal wharf. We assumed we’d be heading back, but no, we were on our way to the Asian side of Istanbul.



Once at Kadakoy (the port on the Asian side) we went in search of a snack. The Filafel was brilliant. Slices of chicken that tasted like roast chicken on a bed of fluffy rice with tomato and lettuce. So yum.



We’d had our travel scissors confiscated at Kuala Lumpur (had passed through so many airports before) so went looking for replacement pair. Not knowing the language, and with so few speaking English, we had a hard time even finding ordinary scissors. Passing a barber, Judy decided Bruce would be shorn! And, he was. The barbers’ attention to detail was nothing short of amazing. He even used a mini-blowtorch to remove hairs on the ears!!!!



Wandering along we found ourselves in a little street with so many bars. For us, it was close enough to beer o’clock that we needed no prompts. After a few Guiness’s (only decent beer available) for Bruce and G&T’s for Judy, we toddled off. But, before we did, we were able to have a long chat with several staff seeking to perfect their English. What we learned was really helpful to our understanding of Istanbul.



We’d asked the staff if there were any ‘good’ traditional Turkish restaurants in the area. The previous evening we’d had a bland meal - despite ranking high on Tripadvisor (says more about the American Tripadvisor users than quality). We were pointed in the right direction and found a romantic place where we devoured the most amazing Sardines and Greek salad. Judy asked for Baklava, but the look on the waiter indicated that it wasn’t available (it is in so many shops in Istanbul). Instead a delicious desert with Turkish coffee satisfied her ‘second stomach’.

Day 3: Little Syria

With our Museum pass, we caught the tram (and a bus) to a Greek Orthodox church - now a museum - to look at the mosaics. They were brilliant. But, with little other to see, the visit was brief. Another item on the Museum pass was within walking distance. But, when we got there it was closed for repair. A third item on the list was not far and without Wi-Fi (we use the phone app Maps.Me for directions) to find a bus, we legged it. Again, it was closed to the public.



We had travelled west of the touristic ‘old’ Istanbul - for perhaps 10km’s. And, we walked for about 3 or 4 km’s through backstreets. The area we traversed was ramshackled and offered little evidence of care. Just tired 3, 4 and 5 story apartment blocks and parked (oldish) cars. It didn’t feel unsafe, but it certainly was worse for wear. We learnt later that the area (Fatih) was now filled with Syrian refugees; those that had enough money to not be housed in UN camps. We only saw women in the Black Chador and a quasi Burqa. We also later learnt that most work opportunities for the Syrians are in the ‘old’ section of Istanbul as traders offered the males commission based employment. Over the days ahead we spoke to several males (no female would talk to Judy) about their plight. Almost unanimously, they will make their life in Turkey; they believe their income will always be better than at home (if it ever returns to peace).



Later, we also learnt that the black Burqa is a symbol of Militant Islam. Apparently (we were informed) Sunni Islam is the dominant 'brand' of Islam in Syria, Saudi Arabia and Turkey. And, while the black Burqa is the dominant form of outer clothing used in Saudi Arabia, after 9/11Saudi Muslims adopted a very hard line towards the display of Islam. Women must wear a Burqa and it must be black. The Syrian Muslims have toed the line and also worn Black - not because of Saudi, but because of Islamic State. We saw some Turkish women wearing coloured (non-black) Burqa's. According to those we spoke with, the black Burqa is now perceived by Turkish women as a symbol of militant Islam. Seems the compulsory adoption of the black Burqa outside Saudi is in fact a covert statement supporting militant Islam.





At Fener (an area) we took a bus back to the ‘old’ Istanbul and headed over the Golden Horn to visit a (Whirling) Dervish museum. We learnt so much about the Sufi’s and Islam in general that it is hard to describe in words. Actually a branch of Islam, Sufi’s focus on attaining inner spiritual attainment by practicing love and service. In contrast (we learnt) the other 180 or so Islamist branches focus on the exterior - religious practice and egoistic displays of gift giving.



We’d travelled to the museum via an underground Funicular and once outside, noticed a bright red tram After the museum visit we took the bright red tram (just like a small Melbourne tram in shape) along Istikial Caddesi (a thoroughfare along the ridgetop of Beyoglu) that is now a pedestrian shopping street (all high end shops) to Taksim Square. The Square is largely a concrete open area and apparently used for political rallies.



We continued northwards on shanks pony via several connected parks. At one, the journey was down a steep hillside then up the other. Fortunately, there was a small cable car awaiting us. We continued our journey, enjoying the perfumed blossoms of flowering trees and Jasmine vines to the ferry at Kabatas where we enjoyed another trip to Asia.



Arriving at Uskudar, we found that like nearby Kadakoy, this was a residential/retail area and had little to grab our attention. We took a local bus through the back streets to Kadekoy. Making a beeline for a pub we’d seen on our departure the previous evening, we enjoyed some wonderful Craft Beer. Later, we headed for one the seemingly hundreds of restaurants in the area before a night ‘float’ back to Europe.

Day 4: Gallipoli & Troy

Rising very early, we were collected for a bus trip to Gallipoli. We’d earlier booked the trip, and knew it was a 4 1/2 hour bus ride to Gallipoli. After 4 hours, the bus deposited us at the booking office, whereupon the busload of passengers strolled to a nearby cafe for lunch.



Like most Australians, we had been imbued with a rich history of the Gallipoli Campaign. The tragedy is often portrayed as a British blunder. But, as we learned, there’s more to the story. In the early stages of WW1, the Germans had ‘given’ the Ottomans the 2 warships Britain had promised but reneged on. The German crewed ships closed the Bosphoros which upset Russia. Britain, France & an Australian torpedo boat tried to ‘open’ the straight but failed Lord Kitchener failed to understand the extent of the defenses and assumed the Ottoman guns along the banks would be easy to pick off; they weren't and Kitchener had to retreat.



To that end, Kitchener really only had the Gallipoli peninsular as a military entry point. And, as for Australians landing in the wrong place, again the story isn’t exactly correct. They landed at the only place that wasn’t heavily fortified. And, in effect, it was a scramble up a steep set of cliffs or be slaughtered on heavily defended flat ground. The Turkish tell the story that a small lone outpost of a few soldiers spotted the landing and called for help. The Turkish commander Attaturk had no way of getting his troops to the Gallipoli Cove site before about 1pm - some 8 hours after the landing. But, Kitchener ordered that the Australians establish a beach-head and await further orders before moving inland. By the time the orders came, Attaturk had his troops on the higher ground.



Standing before the cliff that is Gallipoli Cove (the beach is non-existant) is emotionally overwhelming. The vista cannot be reasonably described, other than to say any soldier would curse at the prospect of trying to find a passage up the height of the cliffs. To the right is Plugge's Plateau and the Sphinx to the left. The terrain between inhospitable! And, to think they did it under fire!



After visiting the other iconic sites of the landing, we headed back to the office and onto a ferry over the Bosphoros for accommodation at Canakkale. After checking in, we went to a nearby pub for a beer or two. Later, as the sunset passed, we wandered the wide promenade looking for a restaurant for dinner. We came across street vendors selling stuffed mussels; stuffed with a lightly spiced rice. Yummo! Sold by the piece, we had a few and looked for something else. A bit of salad on the hoof, followed by an amazing ice cream (on a cone that had just been made).

Day 5: Troy and ...

With a bit of light rain, we chose not to wander Canikkale but use the time for electronic housekeeping.



Around lunchtime we boarded a bus to visit Troy. The site is about 1/2 an hour away, and we left in a good shower. We weren’t looking forward to a rainy ‘visit’.



By the time we arrived the rain had passed and the sun shone brilliantly. We learned from our Archeologist guide that Troy was the site of at least 7 different cities. Because it was (then) a protected (Mediterranean) ocean harbour, the first ‘city’ belonged to bronze age fisherfolk.



A second city developed over the top, and this one was a merchant trading town and the first defensive wall was erected. Successive cities were established over time - generally due to the collapse of the previous due to either earthquake or war (with Myceans) until the 7th, when the Romans controlled the region. The Trojan ‘war’ and horse is best told in Homer’s Illiad.



We looked at the current site, surrounded by fields and the Mediterranean way off in the distance and wondered why there hadn't been an 8th city. The answer lay in the surrounding fields. The reason for the siltation was that the Roman’s stripped the landscape of the trees to continue their shipbuilding. So, in 2000 years, while the ocean level has reduced a little it has been siltation that has denied the continuation of the city (in some form or another). Our archeologist guide indicated that the replacement for Troy is Istanbul.



We learned that an English archeologist wanted to unearth Troy in the mid 1800’s, and went to the British government for support. He was knocked back. We imagined what may have occurred in the region in WW1 had he been funded. After our history lesson, we returned to the bus which took us back to the tour agency (via a trip back over the Bosphoros). We then boarded a bigger bus for the long trip back to Istanbul.

Day 6: Istanbul.

Having arrived late the previous night, we weren’t in any hurry to ‘get cracking’. After a lazy start, we headed to a Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum focussing on Turkish carpet (or so we thought). Inside was an extensive display of the development of Islam since the inception (some 1500 or so years ago). We were fascinated by the different periods and impact of differing ‘branches’. As always, violence held the key to expansion/retreat.



We followed this with a tram trip to nearby Eminonu to visit the Egyptian Spice Bazaar. Under one long roofed area (in a cross design) are shops selling wares - mainly spices. Apparently, the Bazaar had occupied this spot since the mid-17th century. We then ambled on foot to the nearby Grand Bazaar; one of the oldest in the world, to find a huge space with similar looking traders selling similar goods.



Having had our fill, we headed for a Hammam, or Turkish bath. The one suggested had been constructed well over a century ago and appeared ‘the part’. Though wikipedia describes them differently, ‘ours’ was oriented towards western tourists. Bruce had a steam bath and a good rub down, while Judy opted for the same followed by an oil massage.



With the day nearly gone, we headed (all sparkingly fresh) towards Kadakoy and a decent beer and meal.

Day 7: departure.

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With knowledge of the bus route, we were able to quietly and easily head for the airport to leave Turkey for our 10:30am flight.







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Reflection

After the escorted tours of the past fortnight, we really enjoyed being in charge of our own direction. Choosing whether or not to spend time at a place or move on allows us to enjoy that which takes our attention. On this level, our journey in Istanbul was really enjoyable. And, we found the Turkish folk really friendly and warm hearted.



Given our journey coincided with Ramaden, we were impressed that the Turks used the open spaces to have an evening meal (the fast is broken at 7:30pm). Wherever there was a greenspace, it was crowded from 7:30 till midnight. With families eating, talking and generally having fun, the children ran around having a ball. It was really nice to experience.



Also enjoyable was the Asian side of the city. We noticed that the ‘old’ city area and westwards was gloomy in presentation. Sure it had old buildings and tight twisty streets, and a helluva lot of Mosques. For us, the gloominess was because of the influx of Syrian refugees. Generally, it was Syrian males in the tourist areas - each seeking to convert a hello into a sale. Only away from the tourist hotspot to the west did Syrian women view daylight, and in their black Chador and black head covering they scurried like frightened rabbits. There was no ambience of taking time to enjoy. To the north (over the Golden Horn, and to the east over the Bosphoros on the Asian side, few women wore a Chador. Most wore western clothes. Occasionally, we saw a woman or young lady in a quasi Chador. Never black, these ranged from muted colours (older) to bright colours (young). We experienced the same at Canakkale. As noted above, the black Burqa (or similar) has become a symbol of militant Islam.



Outside Istanbul, the countryside was so green and the soil fertile. It was such a contrast from that which we experienced in Oman, Jordan and Israel.



While our trip to Gallipoli Cove was short in duration, it was immensely powerful in impact. We are glad we also visited Troy as it lightened our spirits for our return to Istanbul.



We found aspects of Turkey extremely photogenic. And, when trying to select representative photo's for this blog were overwhelmed for choice. Accordingly, there are many we've included. Once at this point, scroll through to see the rest.



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