Oman; a delightful diversion

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Oman: a delighful diversion

On this trip (to the Middle East) we were confronted with expensive options that travelled via Europe. The alternative was a more direct route using multiple legs. The latter were daytime flights (our preference) being Australia > Malaysia > Oman > Jordan. Instead of using Oman as an overnighter, we decided to stay a little longer.



As always, if you want to see the picture in a larger size, just click on it.

Day 1 - May 3: Arrival

As the plane descended to Muscat (capital of Oman), the dust haze of the Arabian peninsular gradually gave way to a rocky, parched desert. The bright blue of the ocean contrasted with the beige and brown of the landscape. From the air, there was no evidence of green anywhere!



At the terminal, we were confronted with a big culture shock. We are accustomed to waiting at airports. As an example, w'd left Kuala Lumpur airport with crowds and long waits to get through check-in, customs etc., but here there was no one. While it is a relatively 'out of the way' destination, we expected more than the handful of folk we encountered. No one ahead of us, no queues through customs ... Oh, why couldn't everywhere be like this? On the flipside, airport passenger congestion indicates both, the lack of resources a nation allocates to tourism, and the rise of tourism numbers.



Out of the terminal, we were met with another shock - 40 degree heat!!! Fortunately, the airconditioned 'downtowner' bus was taking on passengers so we only had a brief exposure to the heat.



After checking into our hotel at Q'uram, we decided to explore the locality using shanks pony. Nearby was (reputedly) the best beach. We later got the feeling it was perhaps the only beach! In the 40 degree heat, few were on the long sweeping sandy stretch. Being an Islamic nation, sun-baking wasn't a popular 'attraction'. Aside from a couple of folk swimming, the main focus was fishermen with nets dragging in the Sardine catch. A long wooden dinghy would spread the nets, while a long rope was attached to a 4WD that (with assistance of some men) dragged the net to shore. A few hours of toil resulted in the 4WD ute driving off with the tray overloaded with Sardines. The aroma of rotting Sardines along the foreshore was certainly one we'd not experienced at a (reputedly) major tourist draw card!



After a while of strolling in the intense heat, we ducked into one of the several cafe's lining the street. An ice cold coffee in aircon certainly helped our exhaustion.



The beach 'zone' we visited was, in fact, the fringe of a large low lying swampy basin. The elevated road enabled us to see the hinterland; a small strip of low lying dry swampland land fringed with a slightly elevated strip carpeted with modern buildings and squeezed against a rugged escarpment. The almost universally white buildings dominated the scene. We'd learned that while Oman had been (sort of) settled for a couple of thousand years with mainly nomadic herding tribes, the growth of Muscat really only seriously began with the adoption of desalinated water - some 50 or so years ago. With an average rainfall of 100mm, desalination was the 'game changer'. This coastal strip between the CBD and the airport that we had earlier traversed comprised buildings that appeared to be less than about 2 decades old.



After some time strolling, we came to the end of the beach. Venturing inland, we 'discovered' a pub. Being beer o'clock, there was no second thoughts. Then again, in this heat, beer o'clock was likely anytime during the day! The beer may have been bland European lager, but after such heat it went down exceedingly well. From the pub balcony and through the dusty pale skyline, we watched the sun set over the Gulf.



Nearby, we enjoyed a meal of Omani food. The dips - hommus, baba ganesh, etc. - were exceptional. The filafel style mains was so different to anything wed ever experienced. It was sort of like the flat bread being merely the encasement of highly spiced/flavoured meats, the vegetables were mostly mashed balls rolled in a flour and deep fried (not oily at all). The desert was - to use Judy's oft used expression - 'to die for'! Saffron infused Cream Brulee with Rose Water Ice Cream!

Day 2: exploring Muscat

After a good sleep and breakfast we headed north to the Grand Mosque. In part we had to take a taxi - which was an experience. In Muscat (and likely all Oman), taxis have no meter so the price is as settled before the ride. And, to be expected, haggling is the norm. To a novice tourist, we must have been an easy target. Nevertheless, we (apparently) didn't pay too much.



We'd read that when the Mosque was built, the Sultan wanted the best in the region. So impressive was the result that Dubai and other neighboring states set about one upmanship!



We haven't been in Mosque's elsewhere, but the building - while constructed on a grand scale - was a bit underwhelming. Unlike the grand cathedrals of Europe, this was just an enlarged version of a prayer room with a bit more decoration. Perhaps the 'crowning' glory was the huge chandeliers. At one end, where the Imam would conduct the service, the recessed space was covered with mosaic like tiles. If anything, the 'issue' was not the building, rather, our expectation. Essentially, the space is for prayer and communion with Allah. And, to that end there is no need to deitise the peripherals and accoutrements.



Infadels are allowed to visit between 8am and noon. Upon arrival we were advised that the extra covering Judy had selected to wear was insufficient, she had to wear a bed-sheet (ie. burqa or chador) to enter. Fortunately the Niqab head covering wasn't needed - just a scarf! Surprisingly (for us) there were many visitors when we arrived. Even so, the widespread use of marble (inside and out) coupled to the well designed use of space meant the 'traffic' wasn't an issue. We've been to cathedrals with many visitors (tourists?). And, western cathedrals tend to amplify noise. So, the difference in ambience here was so markedly different.



As we departed, we ambled along a corridor of shade trees (the temperature had climbed markedly and we needed the shade) and again enjoyed the subtle perfume of a particular tree in flower. We'd not encountered the particular aroma, but it wasn't sweet - more alluring - and was so delightful in the oppressive heat.



We continued ambling to the bus stop and (eventually) hopped onto a (wonderfully airconditioned) bus to make our way the Muscat centre and the 'old' port.



The area now known as (old) Muscat is a good harbour and we read was settled in the 1st century. It wasn't till about the 14th century that (old) Muscat became influential and blossomed. In the 15th century it attracted the attention of the Portuguese, though they were despatched in the mid 17th century. Due to the strategic importance, successive rulers had forts built, many of which remain. The harbour area (of Old Muscat) is known as Muttrah - and it was our destination.



The road lining the harbour (known in the locality as the corniche) is crowded with buildings representing the various era's of settlement. We headed for an old 17th century building - the Souk; or marketplace. Here were traders fronting narrow laneways (perhaps 2 metres wide) seemingly offering anything the buyer wanted. Many were selling Frankincense and each had a little burner to enable would-be buyers to smell the particular aroma of their product. We learned that there is a huge variation in quality for these gums (they are the congealed sap of trees) not only from the country from whence they came, but also from within the source region. The aroma filled the alleyways and made for a wonderfully enjoyable wander.



Nearby was the Gold Souk. WOW!!! Here were hordes of black Burqa and Niqab covered women engaged in jewelry purchase. Looking at the displays, it appears that once the black outer garment has been discarded (at home), these women liked to dress up.



On the harbour were several 'yatchs'; this being the term the super rich use for their multimillion $ ships. One stood out - the Al Said - a massive indulgence and 'owned' by the Sultan of Oman! Clearly, this man's 'boys toys' don't come cheap!



The oppressive heat (40 degrees) signalled it was time to return to our accommodation to find some aircon. In between, at least the bus journey was airconditioned!



Later in the day we ventured to a nearby hotel that overlooks the nearby beach (where we'd ambled yesterday). There we enjoyed some refreshments and a wonderful meal. The food was Iranian. We'd not had Iranian food before. With Iran being on the other side of the Gulf, we assumed the meal representative of the cuisine style.



The tastes were amazing, and so different to 'our' cuisine. The entree of marinated vegetables (Okra, Eggplant, Cucumber, etc) were sublime. A slow cooked shoulder of lamb stew (delicious) came with 3 flavours of rice (all Basmati); plain white, mid-eastern spices, and Dill flavour. Each was far beyond that which we've ever experienced. A taste of fire seared meats showed that the use of Chilli Oil in cooking is an art we have yet to learn.



After our sumptuous feast, we headed to bed. Tomorrow was back to the airport for the next destination; Jordan.

Reflections

The existence of Muscat rests on desalinated water. The desalination process is achieved by the profligate use of Natural Gas. This, in itself, poses the (environmental) question that in this age of Global Warming whether the means justifies the end. That humans can 'do it' doesn't mean they should!

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