The Evil Eye

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Thursday August 24, 2006 - The sleep I had on the overnight bus was so much better with a fleece to sleep on. Only took me 4 rides to figure that one out. Once we landed in Istanbul the bus stopped across the water from the part of town we wanted and we thought about getting off and taking a ferry but were too tired and lazy. So we stayed on and ended up far far away at the bus station. Luckily they gave us a shuttle ride into town, but it still took much much longer with traffic. We walked around a great deal looking for a decent and decently priced place to sleep, taking great pains to avoid the last place we stayed and the underground cat dungeon room. And where did we end up you might ask? That's right - the same place. But we opted for a slightly more expensive but MUCH nicer room with paint and sunlight. It was great. Maurits had a headache so he slept a bit after we arrived and I did some emailing and showering. We walked around and ended up at McDonald's for a sundae. I can corrupt anyone. We also had fresh orange juice, sesame bread, and he bought some horrible flavored tobacco for his water pipe. Freak. I had received an email from my mom earlier saying my credit card company had called and wanted me to phone them collect. So once I learned how to do that at the information office we went back to the hostel and I placed the call. Turns out that while my money belt was in the "safe" at my last cave hostel, someone borrowed it and purchased gas and shoes - about $250 worth! Bastards. So here is where I start telling people NOT to go to Tuna Caves pension in Goreme. The credit card company was great about it and will resolve it, but I just feel so awful that someone could, and would, so this to me. But we will not dwell on that here. Afterwards Maurits and I had a big going away dinner and we both ate too much and felt sick. Perfect.

Friday - Got up and felt sick - slight case of food poisoning perhaps? Maurits felt a bit sick as well. We started trying to arrange transport for Maurits to the airport but he was going to the "other" airport and that makes it difficult. Finally he called the company that his airline uses and paid the extra money to get himself there worry free. We spent the rest of the time packing, checking out, and then sitting in the park before collecting his things, moving mine to a dorm (second room in two days), and waiting for the bus. We thought we might have not seen it as there were so many and the time was close at hand, but it all worked out ok. Another sad tearful good bye and he was gone. But don't worry - before he even drove away, literally, there was a creepy guy talking to me. I got on the tram and then on a bus and went straight to the Chinese embassy to pick up my passport with my shiny new visa. All in all it took me 6 hours roundtrip to do that. And they were upset because I had only one receipt instead of two - but the bank only gave me one. What's a girl to do? I got the tram back and tried to get off at one stop but couldn't break through the crowd fast enough, so had to stay on one more stop. Got back to the hostel and my two roommates in the dorm were sleeping already (it was 8:30pm) so I took my journal out and went to sleep a little later. There is a guy who works at the hostel - let's just call him Creep Guy - who offered to walk me up to my room that night. No thanks. But he walked me up anyway and opened the door, even though I told him the girls were sleeping. He looks in and then I tell him to go and he goes. I went to sleep and there he was again, 20 minutes later asking me if I felt better (I had mentioned my stomach problems). Creepy - I mean, I was asleep. I asked him why he was there and told him to go. Decided to look into changing hostels.

Saturday - Oh good, still sick today. I am mobile, just can't eat much. I eat breakfast because it's free and only bread and jams and such - a good way to test the stomach out. Today I went to the Aya Sophia church turned mosque turned museum. It's incredible. Absolutely beautiful inside and enormous. I spent over an hour in there just looking around in wonder. You could even go up to the second floor to gaze down. The best part was the way up - it was a winding ramp that looked extremely old castle and was made of different size stone blocks worn down by centuries of use. Once I could close my mouth again I hiked it over the Blue Mosque next door. This is still a functioning mosque and though very touristy, is closed at prayer times. That reminds me - prayer time is five times a day in Islam. And all the mosques let you know when prayer time is exactly - they all have speakerphones with men that start singing at all five times. Loud. At 5am even. And I sleep very close to the Aya Sophia. It always feels very "American Idol try-outs" to me. But priests can't always sing either, in my experience. The Blue Mosque is a more delicate, also very beautiful mosque. But not one you have to stay in and gawk for an hour. Afterwards I walked around the hippodrome - where the chariots used to parade around - and saw two obelisks stolen from Egypt way back when. Christian and I had seen them before but this time I got a photo. Then I walked over to the Cisterns - a huge underground storage area for water that was built centuries ago. I was a little skeptical at the entrance fee - about 7 dollars - but it really was a cool place to be. Underground it was dark and cool - so nice coming from the hot hot heat outside. It is not so much a water tower like ball as it is a pool that sits at the base of about 128 columns that support the entire structure. I walked in there for quite a while and enjoyed it.

In the afternoon I spent a few hours catching up on my travel blog and while I was doing that, a German family came in and needed a room. They got mine. I was the only one in the room so they got it. There were no more female rooms left so they put me in a single for the same price. Three rooms in three days. Creepy guy managed to "accidentally" walk in on two separate occasions. Then I was informed that I would have to move out the next morning to another dorm or pay the extra cost. Of course. I had a slice of pizza for dinner that a guy in the hostel offered and then off to bed.

Sunday - Today I got up early, packed up, and moved to my fourth room in four days. I had been in this room a few weeks ago and even got my same bed back. Just like home. I went to the Topkapi Palace early on in order to beat the crowds for tickets. This ıs a beautiful multibuilding palace where the Sultans would live with their harems. I got in line for the harem as soon as I got there, since it was a separate entrance fee and the tickets for the tours sell out. The tour was very rushed and there weren't as many rooms open as I had expected, but overall it gave me a good idea of how life in the palace was for the women who lived there. And there were lots of women.

There are very large garden areas and several rooms that you can see filled with treasures - guns, swords, and other weaponry; jewels and beautiful clothing; amazingly crafted furniture and silverware...it was just astounding to see it all.

I spent a total of three hours there and then went to the nearby park and sat there for a few hours, reading and trying to take it all in. A Turkish family came and sat with me on the bench for a while and offered me everything they were having - Coke, sunflower seeds, cookies. They tried talking to me and sometimes got their 11 year old son to translate as they spoke no English and I still haven't managed to pick up any Turkish. They were very nice though, as most people here seem to be. Once they left I also left. Tried to fax my purchase order form for my Transmongolian train tickets and invitation letter to Russia but the number wasn't working. Instead I spent the night talking to my new roommates - A Korean girl and a Malaysian girl.

Monday - Today was very unproductive. I had planned to go to the Russian embassy and apply for a visa, but I still wasn't able to send the fax which would then allow the Russian travel agency to send my invitation letter by email. So instead I spent all day waiting for an email with the right fax number so I could begin the process. When it came it just said try again. I did and this time it worked. He send me the invitation and I printed it and got everything ready to hit the embassy the next day. Today was also unusually cloudy and rainy - it poured it down hard for a while actually. First rain and clouds I have seen in Istanbul.

Tonight was loud and annoying. A new girl came in at 11:30pm and creepy guy turned on the lights which seemed to stay on forever. Then they moved some boys into the room at 2am since their beds had gotten wet in the rain during the day at another hostel. I don't really care either way but I tried to give creepy guy a hard time about it. He didn't really care. I got almost no sleep.

Tuesday - Long day. Creepy guy at the hostel gave me some hard boiled eggs, cheese, and bread to make a sandwich as I was leaving too early to sit down to breakfast. I ran over to the Russian embassy and made it there by 7:45am - they open at 8:30am. I was the third person there but then everyone started arriving and crowding me out of my space. There is no line and everyone else works for visa help agencies that get your visa for you. So all these men are friends and talking to each other while I got further and further from the door. And they make you wait outside until it is your turjn to come in. Fortunately I was actually the first at the counter because everyone else had to organize their many passports. But as soon as I got there and pulled out my invitation I was refused. They would only accept the original and mine was a copy. I was so angry because I had been there two weeks ago and the man there said I could bring a copy. I tried to explain that the original was in Russia and they didn't care. Finally they said that I could come back at 10am to speak to someone else. I went and made and ate my sandwich and returned. So I did and after waiting for 30 minutes I was refused, but more rudely. Lovely. So I left and was quite upset - especially since I had already bought my train tickets from Russia to China. But I saw a Russian travel agency, rushed over, explained my sitaution in English to a man who spoke Russian, and somehow it worked out. He sold me a new original invitation (angry that I had to buy two on my limited budget) and I ran over to the embassy, getting there at 11:35am. They close at 11:30am. But luckily they were still processing something and I was able to walk up and give them everything. They looked it all over, frowned, asked me if I was going alone, frowned, and said ok. I did it! I would have to come back between 2-3pm to pick it up.

I spent the afternoon wandering around, looking in some shops. The embassy is on Istiklal Caddesi, the main pedestrian street in town. So I just wandered up and down it all day. It is 2km in each direction - I walked 12 km just on that street that day. I even went into a church and sat down for a while. All kinds of crazy praying in there - people talking to statues, lighting candles. Extreme religion. Then I got back to the embassy around 1:40pm and got crowded out by all the men again. But it only took about one minute to pick up my passport, so it was fine. There was even a helpful man who worked there who went and got it for me so I didn't have to wait in line.

Afterwards I went out and celebrated - I bought some conditioner and some styling product for my hair - big splurge. Then I went to McDonalds for a sundae and ran into my Korean roommate at the table next to me. What are the chances? Then I decided to see a movie and went for The Break-up - first movie theater I've been in since March or so. So that was exciting enough as it was. I then bought the guide book for Russia and even some hair things that I wanted. Way too much money for one day. I did some emailing and decided to walk home from there, which took about an hour. The city is even more beautiful at night. All the mosques look even more impressive when they are lit up. It's really an amazing city. On the way I decided my stomach was feeling better - good enough for dinner. Where did I go? That's right - McDonalds. Yup - if my stomach could handle that it can handle anything. And it was yummy and helped cure some of the homesickness I was feeling. I met my new Spanish roommate when I got back and we eventually turned off the lights. Then one of the boys came in, turned on the lights, and started talking to me as if I wasn't trying to sleep. Such "unusual" dorm etiquette. I finally told him I was going to sleep. He kept the lights on while he got ready and brushed his teeth - our room is bright even in the dark. Then he got into bed and kept the lights on. I asked if I could turn them off and he said he needed to read. Read??? Then go somewhere there is light! I know I came off as rude but I was tired and he finally turned it off. By then I was too annoyed to sleep. Grrrr.

Wednesday - In the morning after breakfast and random lounging I called Christian to see what he was up to. I knew he would be leaving for home on Friday and wanted to see him before he left. He was on his way out but we agreed to meet up at 7pm. So I headed out in the afternoon, back to Istiklal Caddesi. I wanted to see another movie. They were showing Pirates of the Caribbean cheaply so I went for that option. They actually assigned seats and I was unpleased with mine, much to the displeasure of the usher. So I waited until everyone sat and then picked a better seat. The movie was ok - terrible ending. But still a nice treat. Afterwards I checked email and then ran to meet Christian, all the way down a ridiculous steep city street that I have been up and down for the last couple of days. Then when I met him he told me we were heading back up it. So not a surprise - the boy is a sadist. We walked up and sat down at a place for a drink and waited for Christine. I had an Ayram. It's a white drink that looks like a milk shake and tastes like liquid feta cheese. I wanted to try it before leaving here as all the Turkish drink it. I never need to have another but I'm glad I tried. Christine arrived and we chatted for an hour or so before moving to the veggie hippie restaurant next door. We shared six dishes and it was really tasty. After dinner we went into a bookstore and then for some dessert. Then it was just after 11pm and I started to get worried about public transport stopping for the night as it was too late to walk home alone. They walked me over to the metro and it was still open. So I said my good byes and hopped on. Then had to get on the tram and made it back about midnight after buying water from a closing kiosk. The Korean girl was out and we were the only ones in the room so I wrote im my journal before bed. Didn't even hear her come in - good roommate. Just before I went to sleep I ran into Rob, the guy we met on the bus to Goreme (where Tuna Caves Pension stole my credit card, don't forget). But he disappeared to check in and I didn't see him again.

Thursday - I woke up today to clouds, rain, and cold. So strange. It was actually cold all day and overcast - so unlike yesterday which was sunny and really hot. Nice change. I took the opportunity to be lazy and lay in bed reading the Russian guide book to start planning my time there. I only have eight days before the train and that includes one day of flying to Russia and getting between St. Petersburg and Moscow. So much to see - so little time. But Russia is my most expensive country and will do a lot of damage in just eight days. Also woke up to belly troubles again - why? In the afternoon I went to the post office to see how much a parcel will cost and now have to make a decision about what to send and if I can afford it. Then I walked around a bit and went into some stores. It's a definate reminder that some part of me is itching to get home - I am starting to look at clothing and wishing for something new. I hate the clothes I have been wearing for the last eight months and would love a change. For that matter, I would love to have a bathroom where I don't feel the need for flıp-flops and where I can keep my shampoo for longer than it takes to shower. Anyway, after shopping I haeded out to Istiklal Caddesi again. It's a good hike away and I need the exercise. Climbing that hill must be like hiking in Nepal! But before I got very far, I ran into creep boat guy from weeks before! How unlucky. Stalker. Just because I decided to go into one store, not into another, walk down a particular street at that time. He said it was destiny. If he is my destiny I have bigger problems than I thought. He asked me to go eat some chicken and I said I had to go meet my husband. He said I could eat first. I said no. He asked why. I told hım I had already told him why. Finally I had to leave - just like the other two times. Yuck. What's in store for tomorrow? Well, the day ended with some emailing and a doner (kebap) sandwich for one dollar. Sweet.

Friday - Today is my mom's birthday! Happy birthday Mom! Once I got up and had breakfast, I decided to repack my things to see how it would all fit in if I was able and unable to afford to send a package home. I also recalculated my budget and am getting dead concerned that I will run out of money before the planned return date of somewhere between November 5-12. I really want to go trekkşng in Nepal after my visit to China but am not sure I can afford to do it. Will be down to my very last pennies by then. Groan.

Once I got over the money issues, I walked down to the post office just to make sure they would be open the next day, as I was not ready to actually send anything yet. Ivan, a Serbian guest at the hostel, decided to come with me for a walk. Yes, the post office would be open te next day. From there we walked to the Grand Baazar so I could scope out genie lamps for a friens who requested one - you know who you are (Jeff). And ıt turns out that genie lamps are stupid expensive so it is unlıkely to come to fruition - sorry sweety. No Aladdin for you. Then I ended up at an internet cafe, as I always doç When I was done Ivan walked with me to try on some skirts. Well, I did the trying on. I am planning to go to the opera im Moscow and have nothing remotely nice to wear, so now I have to buy a decent outfit. Still not nice enough no doubt, but nicer. After that and still no decisions, we walked back and passed a cheap call center. Yay! So I was able to make a couple calls, including one to my mom for her birthday. That worked out really nicely. Back at the hostel I showered and read. Finished one of my favorite books that takes place in Russia and got really excited to be going there in only a few days! Listened to some music and then tried out my new silicome ear plugs for sleeping - a new treat to myself! I really know how to live it up (as do the folks on the street which is why I need the earplugs!).

Saturday - Today I woke up to another cloudy, cold and rainy Istanbul. Istanbul apparently takes September to mean winter. It was 63 degrees today! Bizarre after it being so hot and sunny for so long. Ended up going shopping for souverneirs but not buying much. Came back to the hostel and collected my extras to truck over to the post office. Ivan came with me and helped carry it all. It wasn't nearly the drama I expected it to be, and I ended up sending three packages! One by air, that held my film. Two by sea - slow. One was a box of things and one was a tube of paper I have been carrying around since Madagascar! The tube was far too large for a box but luckily was cheap to send. In the end it all came to about $35 - not too bad. Then with a lighter load we walked to the spice market and then back to Taksim square, for cheap internet. It rained a little on the way so we ducked out in a book store. Stopped in a shop for Ivan to eat a meal and then walked back to the guesthouse. I stopped along the way to get a sandwich and some snacks. At the guesthouse I met my new roommate Alexandra, a Polish girl about my age. She was great to talk to and we finally called it a night around 11pm. Another cold blanket night!

Did I mention this city is overrun with cats? I'm happy to see them usually, but still surprised at the sheer quantity I see...

Sunday - Today is my last day in Istanbul. I've been living here like I live here, not really like a tourist lately. At breakfast I chatted with some new friends and then headed out to run some errands. Ran into a past roommate and chatted a bit outside the Aya Sophia. Then I walked around to take some last photos of the city. Tried on a dress I liked but it didn't work out. Then tried on a skirt I liked but I hate making decisions so I left without a skirt. Ended up back at Istiklal Caddesi and ate a corn on the cob. Everyone is alwasy eating one so I thought I should partake. Then I ended up at yet another movie. This time I saw The Lake House. I had no idea what it what about but could see by the poster that it would be a cheesy love story. Perfect. And it was - for what I was looking for. Still have to buy a skirt and a top to match in hopes that I wıll be wearing it to the opera in Moscow. I would also like to buy some evil eyes before I leave. They are blue glass eyes that help avert the evil eye and protect you. So used to seeing them everywhere I thinkI will need one! Will get a last kepab sandwich and then go pack by bags up for the last time in Turkey. I have really enjoyed my time here and look forward to coming back another time.

Tomorrow I fly to St Petersburg, Russia - a whole new world!

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