Turkey

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I had dreaded the 2.30 am flight from Dubai and arrived in Istanbul feeling quite a mess. I was already sleep deprived and another pesky, twitchy Indian lad made sure I wouldn't be getting any sleep on this leg. Fortunately a bit of adrenalin on the shaky landing had me right for my first taste of Turkey. Mmm yum.

Something about the metro and tram ride into Sultanahmet met my expectations about this part of the world. The gloomy morning only added to preconceptions of faded and tired streets, neglected suburbs, worn-out faces. The landscape changed nearing the centre, and those vaguely familiar landmarks emerged - Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.

I eventually dropped my bags at hostel and slept for a few hours while it rained and grew a little gloomier in the afternoon. After a good feed at a kafeterya the weather cleared and my spirits picked up.. I felt pretty excited about being here. The call to prayer from loudspeakers mounted on mosque minarets five times a day added a real charm too. Except for the 5am one.

But so much for taking my time. Once I was rested I saw as much of Istanbul as my feet could take, leaving just enough for another visit (always some day). Aya Sofya was definitely my highlight, and the buzz around the new strip in Beyoglu, and of course the Baclava and Helva -- Dad you'd be in heaven.

Next stop was Goreme in Kapadokya, a tufa landscape filled with valleys and canyons punctuated by bizarre eroded sandstone dwellings, and churches with intact frescoes dating to the 11th C. It is a really unique place. A visit to an underground city previously inhabited by Hittites and Christians while avoiding the marauders of the day, more wandering amongst the tufa and I was ready for some warmth.

So here I am in Antalya - the turquoise coast and ready to carry on the circuit. As flow on from the eclipse of the 29th (just missed it!) and some trance festival there's a greater number of hippy backpackers than I expected, all dressed to look as locals (as locals may have looked generations ago). Locals today of course wear Levis and Adidas. Fortunately the dishevelled tweed sports coat is still a mainstay.

Turks seem a decent lot. Honest, respectful, generally hospitable, tea-totallers. They usually pay you no attention, which means few touts (nice). If there are touts, they are generally benign and more eager to practise their English than sell you a carpet. I haven't raised the nerve yet to express my hatred for all things carpet. Saying 'sinus trouble' or 'dust mites', even gesturing nose blowing raises a thick eyebrow.

So here are some more photos. I'll update this blog again soonish....

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Photos

Aya Sofya - inside
What an amazing building.

Bus to Goreme
with the oil-wrestler who rode with (squashed) me as far as Ankara.

Sword Valley
Just outside Goreme

A church
At the open-air museum. Many of the dwellings had specific functions - meeting halls, dining areas, kitchens, discos, pool halls, and mobile phone shops. The desire for cellular here has not abated.

Frescoe
St. John meeting St. Roger of the lengthy bus trip.

Kitchen
Space in the floor for the fire, in the wall for the microwave.

House
Erosion has opened up the side of this dwelling.

Arty shot
Notice the hole framing the landscape. Nice one Bertie ;)

Downtown Derinkuyu
Quick hide! Its the marauderererrs!

Otogar
My favourite Turkish word.. (bus station)