Istanbul for the Umpteenth Time - Love it more each time I visit

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I must admit that on this trip, probably my 6th or 7th to Istanbul, I didn't wander far from Sultanahmet. I stayed three days and there were a few sites I wanted to see in Sultanahmet, and a friend I wanted to visit, but mostly I just wanted to wander the streets a bit and relax and have some good food and drink. I accomplished all of this and then some.

This trip to Turkey was bittersweet for me. There are many things I love about Turkey, and many things I don't. But after my experience of living in Selçuk for one year, in a relationship that was bad and ended badly, I wasn't sure I would ever want to come back. I have been to Turkey twice now since I moved from Selçuk, and both times brought a flood of memories, good and bad. This trip I needed a cheap holiday from my life in Kuwait, and I had ten days, which is a good amount of time if I don't have to travel too far. I got a very cheap flight to Turkey as it is the off season, and I spent three days in Istanbul and then went to Izmir to visit my friend, Megan, and some other lovely people I know in Izmir, which was another reason I wanted to go to Turkey.

When I arrived in Istanbul, it was snowing!! For the second day in a row! I was excited about that, but I cannot say the same for the Kuwaiti couple sitting next to me. The man looked absolutely horrified! I was greeted at the airport by the hotel shuttle I had requested, although I thought I had canceled it. I just happened to see my name on a sign, or I would have just kept right on going to the metro. I stayed at Zeynep Sultan Hotel in Sultanahmet, about one minute from Aya Sofya. I had a lovely, small room that was clean and warm and comfortable. Turkish breakfast included on the warm, enclosed part of the terrace, with a view of Aya Sofya. I really enjoyed my stay here. The staff is very helpful and so was Bobo the cat. Winter rates are 35 euros a night, but I'm sure it is more in summer.

By the time I got to my hotel, I was pretty hungry, so I didn't stay long before venturing out into the snow to find some good eats. I had a pide at Karadeniz Pide, which is on a side street off Divan Yolu. Lovely pide, but a bit awkward when I was the only client and there were about five Turkish men watching me, waiting to see if I offered any encouragement for conversation. And the dance begins. A woman alone in Istanbul will have very little peace when eating or walking alone. That's my experience anyway.

I visited the small cemetery on Divan Yolu, which I know seems weird, but it is so beautiful in the snow. I saw it on my first trip to Istanbul and it snowed then too. It is in such an interesting location. I wonder how old it is and who is buried there.

The next day I wandered over to the Museum Complex to visit the Tiled House and Archaeological Museum. I think the entrance fee was 10TL and it includes three museums. Worth visiting, but I'll just let my pictures speak for themselves. Afterwards I went to the Spice Bazaar where I hoped to take a lot of pictures, but I got hassled so badly by the merchants when I stopped to take a picture that I just gave up. I went outside where the locals shop and bought some Turkish Delight, some Van cheese that I was so excited to find, and some nuts and figs. It is much, much cheaper to buy outside than inside. Local people shop at the outside bazaar, but inside is mostly tourists with tourist prices! The Turkish Delight was half the price outside!

I also visited Kuçuk Aya Sofya, or Small Aya Sofya. What a beautiful mosque! It is very much worth walking down the hill behind the Blue Mosque. It is a working mosque, so there is no entry fee, but be sure to dress appropriately and women should cover their hair. Then I went to the Mosaic Museum, after I finally found the entrance which is inside the Arasta Bazaar. For 8TL, it is worth seeing. Would have been better had the guy working there left me alone instead of following me around asking me if I wanted to have tea with him. Woman. Alone. No. Peace. It's not flattering. Not when you understand their motives and that they do this to most every woman who is not traveling with a man. Seemed a bit worse this time than when I've traveled there before.

I did a bit of shopping, which happens when you have idle time in Istanbul, and I visited my friend, Jennifer, who owns Jennifer's Hamam in Arasta Bazaar. She has three shops in the Arasta Bazaar and sells the most beautiful handmade Turkish towels, of her own design I might add. It was good to see her again, and she had a steady stream of customers in her shop while I was there, so I guess business is good.

I really enjoyed my time in Istanbul and then I was off to Izmir to visit friends, take a cooking class, and just relax.

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Photos

Aya Sofya
As seen from my hotel in the snow

Zeynep Sultan Mosque
Small working mosque behind my hotel

Outside Topkapi Palace
for ablution before entering the mosque

Building Inside Gate to Topkapi
This is not open to the public and I've never known what it is.