Turkey 14 - Istanbul - the Asian side /how many countries border the Black Sea?/Pulp Fiction and wooden houses /worth every penny/lira spent on the trip

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We all piled off the Bosphourus Sunset as our luxury yacht was named and planted our feet on the Asian side of Istanbul . Our guide stepping off the boat explained that this was the wonder of living in a city that straddled two continents . The wonders of the East and the West mingled . We stopped at quiet sleepy Kanlica one of most beautiful and green districts of Istanbul . It was quite lively around the ferry port with cafes open full of Turkish muslims on holiday due to Eid . Old men and young sat in the cafes drinking coffee, smoking and there is a lot of that even amongst the young and playing cards and games . It reminded us of some parts of Greece . Very few women were about . The guy headed off the shop that sold Turkish yoghurt . We did not follow as we wanted to try to pick up another magnet . However given it was a holiday all the shops were shut. Perhaps we should have sampled the yoghurt covered in honey , nuts and dried fruit .

After half an hour we returned to the boat and set off again but this time hugging the Asian side of the city . The districts looked quieter and more up market with properties on the waters edge being sold for millions of dollars to wealthy tourists . A rich pop singer lives in that one our guide cheerfully explained as he pointed out older Ottoman houses painted red and newer smaller one which still commanded huge amounts of wealth to own one . It was the rich areas of Ortakoy and Bebek on the other side that looked European with up market shops . This side was more authentic .

Our guide full of stories and anecdotes continued . He mentioned the music we were hearing . Did we recognise it ? Blank faces looked at him . He shouted a film surely you must know it ? Bruce Willis in a cameo and it is not Die Hard . He smiled that smile - the knowledge that we had no idea what he was talking about . Someone googled it and screamed Pulp Fiction . Apparently that was the right answer .

He moved to the house in repair . Look that one over there . That is why the ships travel one way . A ship hit it and it has never been repaired . And on the hill over there - a mosque . The biggest in Turkey . Built high up to compete with ancient it had been built by Erdogan in homage to himself . He indulged himself pretending to be a Sultan and adding too many minarets . We finally found out about the numbers of minarets . One if the mosque had been built by a wealthy patron . Two or more if you were a sultan . No more than necessary as they should not in any way be better than what you have at Mecca .

We passed the Fortress of Asia on the way back and the military academy . Soon to be reopened as a military museum . We nibbled on Turkish Delight and drank Turkish Chai . Not fond of tea without milk so that habit will not be returning home with us .

Over there - the next story started . Did you know a teachers salary was 1000 euros a month ?. Rent 1000 euros a month ? Do the maths he said - what does a teacher live on when all they earn goes on rent ? It seems folks work in the European side and now that the bridges are built they travel over but live in Asia . He showed us the complex provided to give free holidays to the poorly paid teachers.

We were nearly at the end of our tour . We could see the shore coming up fast and with it and the Maidens Tower which sits in the middle of the straits . The water level barely rises 2 " so there is never any risk of flooding . The tower also known as the Leanders Tower was built many times from 408BC right up to the Ottoman conquest of the city in 1453. Ever since then it has been destroyed by earthquakes and burnt down in 1721. Being rebuilt again as a lighthouse in 1731 and 1734.

The final question before we landed was thrown at us with a smile as our guide asked us apart from Turkey which other countries have a coastline on the Black Sea. We all started to chime out Russia and Ukraine as they are all part our news these days . Romania and Bulgaria of course but there was one other and we all looked blank . He began to give us clues . It is on the other side. It begins with G . Eventually we got there . Georgia . Of course we should have realised but we had all forgotten about Georgia . Our cruise was almost over and it was a sad thing to realise it was time to hit the road again .

And before we reached shore - the question was asked what is the difference between Asian Istanbul and European ? The answer nothing . The language the same the guide said , the people are the same , nothing is any different . We are all inhabitants of Istanbul . And that answer seemed the right one .

We had enjoyed it and it exceeded any expectation we had . It gave us the opportunity to see the city from the water and to plant our feet in Asia . It also meant that we were in the right place to head up to the bustling Taksim Square for lunch .

We said goodbye to the guide , thanked the crew and left a tip . I really hope others left a good tip too as the crew and particularly the guide earned it that morning . They made our morning special and long will it remain in our Turkish memory .

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