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Published: November 30th 2022
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The sun is setting on this trip, as I reach the final stretch of what has been a very interesting journey. Not an easy trip, at least, not easy if you are trying to keep to a budget, and don't have your own transport. But worth the money nonetheless. Looking back I can confidently say I managed to do more than I expected.
I have seen a country in change. Going from a closed society to an open society. Remember this is a nation that until three years ago was forbidden territory for (western) tourists (but not businessmen). I have met lots of wonderful Saudi's and migrants from all over. 'Welcome' is the word I hear most, but also, 'What do you think of our country?'
I have enjoyed the bus rides, it has given me a chance to just relax and watch the scenery flow by. And what a scenery it has been! Towering cliffs, rocky outcrops, green oases, tall sand dunes of different colours, narrow canyons, and turquoise waters. I've also had quite a lot of chicken and rice. It's one of the cheapest and most ubiquitous meals in this country.
So, what did I do
Dumat al Jandal
A final peep at the castle on the last part of my whirlwind Saudi extravaganza? From Dumat al Jandal, I took a taxi to Tabuk. Not a bus, but a taxi. The idea was a bus, and I had a ticket for a bus. But a taxi stopped at the bus station, the driver walked in and insisted I go with him, especially since the bus was delayed by more than an hour, so he said. Now I am not one to believe taxi drivers when they tell me a bus is late, or even take them up on an offer like this. I rather enjoy the buses. Sitting in a cramped taxi isn't that tempting.
'How much are you paying for the bus?' he asked.
I showed him my ticket.
'I'll take you for the same price.' he said.
'But I have already paid for this ticket.' I retorted.
After talking to the ticket salesman behind the counter, he turned around and said, 'You can get the full refund when you arrive in Tabuk.'
I still wasn't budging.
'Come, with me, I only need one more passenger and we can go. There is a Pakistani, he also has
Dumat al Jandal to Tabuk
Desert scenery along the road a ticket for the same bus as you, he will help you with the refund.'
'I want a window seat.' I said, because I already had this vision of being squashed in the middle of the car, and I rather wait 2 hours for a bus then being stuck in the most uncomfortable seat in a taxi, no matter how fast I get to my destination.
'No problem.' he smiled.
Reluctantly I picked up my backpack and threw it in the trunk. I got my window seat. The man who had to give it up was the Pakistani. Only he was not from Pakistan, but from Bangladesh. He was a friendly man.
The trip was fast. Too fast. With the driver mostly staring at his phone, and not at the road. A common trait here. It's the reason Saudi Arabia has one of the highest traffic mortality rates in the world. They drive like idiots, spending most of their time staring at the phone screens, while driving 120 km/h or more. Even within city limits! A day doesn't go buy that I don't see some lunatic swerving with screeching tires, almost losing control at break neck
speed, because he (it's always a man) didn't see the curve in the road, or the speed bump, or the traffic circle, or the traffic light, or the family crossing the road! But do they care? Nope, they simply continue at the same speed, as if nothing happened.
Anyway, back to the ride. It was scenic as always, and I arrived early in Tabuk. The Bangladeshi helped me to get my refund, as promised by the driver. Only it turned out I couldn't get a full refund, but only a partial refund. Better than nothing I guess.
I had come to Tabuk, not for Tabuk itself, but for what is around Tabuk. There are many sights in the wider area. But, as always, I didn't have the means to get to them. So my first order of business was finding myself a driver. I had to settle for a tour agency in the end. And a very expensive private tour.
The tour was expensive, but also expansive. It took me all over the place, for a full 12 hours. I was satisfied, but completely exhausted by the end of it. My driver was friendly, though I always
find it slightly tiring to have to socialise all the time. When it is just you and the driver, there is this awkward silence you don't want to contend with, so you end up making small talk, over and over, and over and over again...
I did learn some interesting things about him though, for one he used to be a police officer, until he and his friend were ambushed and shot. He survived, his friend did not. His mother asked him to quit the force after that, understandably, which he did, and that is how ended up being a tour guide/driver.
A lot of the places we visited were somehow related to Moses, who, so the local tradition goes, spent some time here during his wanderings. In fact he married a daughter of local prophet, so it seems. The highlight though was the scenery, the fantastical rock formations, the narrow gorge that opened up into the Gulf of Aqaba, the red sand dunes. So much variety!
After Tabuk, all that was left, was for me to slowly make my way back to Riyadh. I decided to go via the coast. First stop Al Wajh, a quiet
town, with a crumbling old core that is being restored.
My hotel was right at the sea. But I had the cheap inner room with no views. However, right outside was a lounge with some tables and a couch overlooking the Red Sea. Since I was the only guest in the hotel, I had that lounge for myself. I had the city mostly for myself too. Sometimes it felt I was walking around a ghost town, there just wasn't anybody else to be seen. In the evening it livened up a little. Still, I enjoyed my time there. Watching sunsets over the Red Sea, strolling through decrepit, but beautiful ruins, and simply enjoying the silence.
From Al Wajh, I went to Yanbu, another port town, this time slightly more lively. It too has a crumbling old town. And here too they are restoring it. Lawrence of Arabia spent a year living here, and you can visit his house, it was airconditioned. I didn't know Lawrence had airconditioning! There is a tiny covered souk too, small but atmospheric.
A last Red Sea sunset and off I was to Riyadh, back to beginning. I stopped the night in Buraydah,
Around Tabuk
Impressive rock along the road because I didn't want to spend another 15 hours on a bus. Saudi Arabia gave me one final gift, a sandstorm! I never have driven through a sandstorm. It was quite interesting.
With that I will leave Saudi Arabia, the land of small bathrooms (as if they are an afterthought), but huge rooms, wide roads, endless deserts, green mountains, more shades of red, brown and yellow than I thought possible, dreamy forts, white clad men and women dressed in black, and roundabouts and entrance roads to each town that are full of impressive artwork and motifs, trees and fake grass, that light up in (mostly), green and white at night.
Goodnight Saudi Arabia and farewell!
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