Jordan - Day 2 - Wadi Rum


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Middle East » Jordan » South » Wadi Rum
March 29th 2014
Published: April 1st 2014
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Matt and I slept in a little and got a good breakfast at our hotel (Century Park). We were able to get on the road around 9am and headed south towards Wadi Rum. Yep. It was pretty much all desert on the way there - I drove the whole way and it was nice to have a road trip without too many crazies trying to kill me. We took the Desert Highway down, which was not in the best condition and had speedbumps that came seemingly out of nowhere. However, I became an expert in recognizing and expecting them - generally at the edges of town.

Generally the ride was desert, but as you approach the Wadi Rum area, you come across a spectacular view of the valley below. We were a little lost when we finally found the sign for the turn off to Wadi Rum - very confused because we had to turn left and we could see the road, but there was no way to access it. So we had to drive up and do a U-turn. Weird. We drove across train tracks, which had a cute choo-choo-train sign, and saw the old train station with a steam engine to the left.

Our camp, Bait Ali, was located just a little further on the left; Mohammed had recommended this place and it did not disappoint! We had no reservations, but were able to each get our own "tent" which is basically an adobe structure with bamboo ceilings, twin beds, and a bathroom. We also booked a camel ride from 4 to 6pm. We grabbed some lunch, and while I was sleepy after the three hour drive, we decided to go to Wadi Rum, just down the street.

Wadi Rum... I can't say I was disappointed - it truly is beautiful and unique. The area is actually owned by three different tribes and each has their own control of various sections. The Zalabia Bedouins control the main tourist area of Wadi Rum - the deep canyon. This is where we drove towards; there is a visitor's centre near the mouth of the canyon. About a dozen young men congregated around the gate and where we parked, offering camel rides, hikes, jeep rides, etc. we just wanted to get our entrance tickets and see the place on their own. It was a bit of a hassle and total turn off, but maybe if you just arrived and had no idea what to do, you would like it. We parked at the very end of the town street and took in the views of the colorful valley beyond. It was a gorgeous view. Then we went near the rest area and shortly hiked up to the Nabatean ruins of a temple, which had a good view of the little town and valley. But alas, there was not much to see. They have crude tents located behind the rest area, but I don't think I could stay there.

We made our way back to our camp anticipating the camel ride. The owner told us the guy was late; at first, we were like that was better because we'll be riding at sunset. But after we hiked up the path behind the camp, then came down and waited for half an hour, it seemed we were stood up and decided to go back to our tents to rest. I was actually super bummed and was already mentally preparing my diatribe against the camp for my blog. The camel ride was going to be the highlight of my day and it was snatched away from me. I soon passed out; I was probably asleep for about 5 minutes before Matt knocked on my door to tell me the camels were here. Yes! So, we each found one and the guide, Raef, walked us out north of our camp and away from the tourist Wadi Rum. This area is run by a different tribe and allows places like Bait Ali to do what they want, but they cannot go into the traditional gorges of Wadi Rum. (The third tribe runs an area more to the east near a town called Disa).

Camels are uncomfortable. But they have kind of a graceful gait and I can't help but think of them as cute! They're really ugly, but something about them makes me happy, as I'm sure is the same reaction everyone has. We headed towards some large rocks, past some other hobbled camels, up and down little tiny dunes and rested towards the big rock, then made our way back. It was nice and peaceful. I was expecting a spectacular sunset, but it didn't happen; it was a beautiful sunset, but I thought I'd see more colors - I think the haze was messing with the sky.

After our ride, we went to dinner, which is included in the price and talked with a few others nearby (Canadians). The food was delicious and constant. Hummus, moutabel, fattoush, bread, and lamb and chicken kebabs. Plus, we had beer and sheesha. It was such a lovely evening.

All in all, a lovely day and continuing my fantastic experience of Jordan!


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