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Published: November 2nd 2008
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So we made it! That in itself was challenging - border control is STRICT. You are grilled VERY thoroughly here. After we went through our first round of questions, Florian's entrance was approved and our Aussie travel buddy Leah and I were held back for a couple of hours for more questions. In my case, I think it was my passport photo - I look really mean on it. Never mind - main thing is, we made it!
We spent most of our time in Jerusalem & Bethlehem. It is hard to sum up how we found it -- exhilarating, overwhelming, inspiring, intense ... Religion & politics are in the fore- & background of life here. While disagreements & tension abound, coexistence & respect are also apparent. It's pretty common, for example, to see a Muslim or Jewish family wait as a bunch of Christian Pilgrims carry a cross through the narrow streets reenacting Jesus' final steps. It is just part of daily life.
We explored the most important Jewish, Muslim & Christian holy sites. We started at the "Wailing Wall", which is most holy to the Jews. Non-Jews are also allowed to pray there and write a prayer
on a piece of paper and insert it in a crevice in the wall. We did so and also watched some of the "thanksgiving" festivities associated during the Sukkoth holiday.
We also visited the Dome of the Rock mosque on the Temple Mount. Although it is currently a Muslim mosque, the Temple Mount is considered extremely holy to both Jews and Muslims.
We took a day trip to Bethlehem in the West Bank to visit Jesus' birthplace at the Church of the Nativity. We unintentionally took a bus used mostly by Palestinians who go through a ID check before entering the West Bank (instead of the bus for tourists and others going directly to the church). We were a couple of kilometers from the city so we walked there along the highly-controversial Israeli West-Bank barrier (the "Wall") which Israel constructed to demarcate the West Bank. Very simply stated, supporters believe the barrier is a necessary tool to protect Israeli civilians from Palestinian terrorism and opponents argue that the barrier is an illegal attempt to annex Palestinian land under the guise of security. In any case, it is a very touch subject. There are some pictures of some the
Jerusalem
Praying at the Wailing Wall the graffiti we saw during our walk.
Back in Jerusalem we visited the sites most holy to Christians including the Church of the Holy Sepulchre & the Garden Tomb. Catholics believe that the former is where Jesus was crucified & resurrected. Protestants believe it happened outside the City at "the Garden Tomb". We visited both and we found both beautiful.
We also spent a day in Tel Aviv. It was a much more laid-back city & a nice break from the intensity of Jerusalem. For Leah & me, it was also a good excuse to go swimming in the Mediterranean Sea!
On our final day in Israel we went to Yad Vashem, which is the memorial dedicated to the victims of the Holocaust. It was very moving and sad, but it was also inspiring to see some of the stories of survivors.
It was our final day of a wonderful week in Israel & Palestine. Our time there gave us much food for thought...
Peace/Shalom/Salaam!
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Baerbel e Leo e Carlos
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My Friends, I very much enjoyed your report on crazy religous confusion, that seems not going together. Thank you for raising my knowledge about a strange world. If Brazil was smaller we probably would have the same problem here. Abraços e Beijos Baerbel, Leo e Carlos