Capernaum Contemplation

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I have saved two pilgrimage sites, Capernaum and the Mount of the Beatitudes, for my final days in Galilee. I could have done them both in one day, but I wanted to spread them out and really get a feel for each one. Besides, my legs and feet were still aching from walk to the River Jordan. With a relatively free day I also decided to take it easy on myself and take the most delicious post-breakfast nap

Capernaum was the fishing village where Peter and his family lived and later Jesus would begin his ministry. It was only short walk, 35 minutes, from the Pilgarhaus. Once again, I set off down the pilgrim’s pathway. When I got into the Capernaum complex, which is also a major archeological site, I went straight to the modern octagonal church. Lucky I did because the guard closed the door right behind me. No one else was getting in for a while. There was a Filipino pilgrim prayer group in there and they were about to begin a private service. Even though I did not understand what they were saying it was reassuring to be in the presence of such devotion.

I sat in the back taking in the scene and admiring the inside of the church. There were these eight magnificent wood carvings and with the big windows it really accentuated the natural setting. Also in the center of the church was a giant square of glass where you can see the ancient ruins below. And not just any ruins, but the ruins of St. Peter’s House.

After the service I wandered over to the main archaeological section of the complex. Apparently, during the time of Christ Capernaum was quite a major town and crossroads. It is actually quite impressive how many buildings they have managed to excavate and preserve, including an ancient synagogue and early Christian church.

What I really liked however was a statue of St. Peter. In his hands he holds a staff and the keys to the kingdom. It’s in a beautiful setting and he looks very much the man on a mission. After a careful inspection I wandered down to the shore in search of solitude.

I clambered down amongst the rocks and found myself a decently comfortable one to sit down upon with my feet practically touching the water. After saying a brief prayer, I noticed a piece of driftwood floating by. A picked it up and started to whittle it. I was listening to one of those Chant albums put out by Benedictine monks. I was in a meditative trance and bathed in a white sun light with the Galilee’s waters lapping back and forth at my feet. I wasn’t really paying attention, but I must have sat there whittling for at least an hour. The whole episode was very tranquil and spiritually reassuring.

Walking back from Capernaum along the pilgrim’s path I got hit with an overwhelming wave of gratitude and emotion. With my shoulders set squarely back and my hand heart I thanked Jesus for all that he has done and asked for the courage to do his work while I am here on earth. When I arrived back I took a short shower and grabbed my book and prayer journal to head down to one of my favorite spots.

In the Pilgarhaus complex there is a stone table and bench that looks out over a Christian cross and the expanse of the Sea of Galilee. There every day of my stay I would read a chapter in Brennan Manning’s book, Ruthless Trust. While doing this I would write down all the quotes that seemed particularly insightful. When I was finished I would write an entry in my prayer journal. On this day I finished with “My trip has only a few days left, but already near the end I can feel a deeper understanding. Not nearly deep enough, but deeper. I pray that I can carry that home with me.”





“The Holy Spirit moves us from intellectual awareness to experiential awareness” -Brennan Manning

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Comments

[Dancing Dave]

Capernaum
My memory of Capernaum was that the Roman Emperor ordered that it be destroyed "so no stone stood upon another." Was there any mention of that in your visit? It is one of my lasting memories of my learning of early Christendom from my youth, so as you have been there I seek your response.

[Tommy No Papers]

Jerusalem
That is certainly true of the Jewish temple in Jerusalem, which the Romans destroyed in 70AD when they evicted the Jews from the Holy Land. Never heard that about Capernaum.