Warwickshire 1 - To go or not to go - that is the question?


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April 24th 2012
Published: April 24th 2012
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Lord Leysters Hospital
For a couple of days we pondered - should we go or should we stay? What was putting us off - well one or two things. Firstly the weather which was changeable to say the least. March is supposed to come in like a lion and go out like like a lamb. However, the wind did not arrive, instead we had heavy torrential rain, sleet and even a covering of snow which blanketed the ground and made the country look as if it had fallen into the depths of Winter again. This was followed by glorious sunshine which out did the weather in the south of France. The second thing that put us off was the impending petrol tanker drivers strike which could have left us without petrol for our first trip in the van to Europe. Panic buying a few weeks ago left petrol stations empty and we did not look forward to the same thing happening again .

We had fitted a water filter to the van and wanted to try it out as the water pressure seemed too low to run anything. So a trip to Shakespeares country would give us chance to try it out and see if it had been a waste of time and money. Clothes loaded up, fridge filled and we set off. We had already booked our site on Warwick Racecourse. A Caravan Club site right in the middle of both the racecourse and the town. Booking was incredibly easy on the internet and the cost reasonable. The weekends were more expensive but we still managed to book three nights for a little over £41. On the way we loved the fact that fellow motorhomers waved at us cheerily and we waved back. No idea where they were going or who they were they still felt like friends.

The site is very open but with trees and shrubs breaking up the parking spots . A large proportion of the plots were set on grass whilst others were predominately hard standing. There was a good choice when we arrived and we picked a half grass and half hard standing plot. However we soon moved when we found the tree behind obscured the view of the satellite for the receiver to lock on to. We easily moved to another excellent plot with a view of the starting/finishing line and also the grandstands. The
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Tomb of Robert Dudley
reception block was clean and tidy and the wardens helpful. Dotted around the site were water points, emptying facilities for waste, a laundry and information point and clean, functional shower blocks . Whilst washing pots I talked to a guy who had just returned from six weeks in Spain travelling from Salamanca, through to Gibraltar and Granada before returning home to the North West of England.

In the afternoon we walked up to the town through the first of the medieval gates - the West Gate . Unfortunately the Great Fire of Warwick of 1694 destroyed much of the medieval town and as a result most of the buildings post-date this period. The feel of the High Street was Georgian with rows of gentrified town houses. Not particularly our favourite style of building but it was fair to say that there was a glimpse of the medieval town in some of the alleys which stretched out from the main street towards the impressive castle and also in the building known as Lord Leycesters Hospital. The fire also burnt down much of the medieval church of St Mary. Luckily the Beauchamp chapel which was built 1443 and 1464 survived.
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St Marys Church -the clock

Lord Leysters Hospital has never been a hospital but its medieval translation is a charitable institution for the housing and maintenance of the needy, the inform , the aged and the infirm. The hospital is timber framed and it dates from the 14th century . At the opposite end of the town is the East Gate another medieval gateway to the town.

Luckily the rain kept off even though the black clouds were gathering as as we walked up to the church. The bells were ringing loudly celebrating a wedding and we did wonder if it was still going on and would prevent us seeing the lovely chapel we had read about. Luckily the bride and groom were already in their car waiting to drive away and we had the church to ourselves. We wanted to particularly see the chapel. St Mary’s was founded on its present site in 1123 by Roger de Newburgh, the Earl of Warwick. The crypt damp and dank still remains from the original Norman building, and houses a rare example of a medieval ducking stool. The chancel, vestry and Chapter house were rebuilt in the Fourteenth Century by Thomas Beauchamp, and this section of the building represents one of the highest peaks of English Gothic architecture. The tomb of Thomas Beauchamp stands in pride of place in front of the high altar; the tiny figures around its base give a fine depiction of Fourteenth Century English fashion. .

The Beauchamp Chapel was really beautiful and one of the most stunning chapels we have ever seen. To say it was glorious is to understate it. It was built in the Fifteenth Century to house the tomb of Richard Beauchamp the earl of Warwick who was one of the richest men in the country. The richness showed in the tomb itself. It is a magnificent example of the European ecclesiastical architecture of its time, and ranks as one of this country’s greatest treasures. The Chapel also houses the tombs of Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester and confidant some say lover of Elizabeth I , his brother, Ambrose the Earl of Warwick, and Robert’s son,

We had to give in early after this visit as the black clouds rolled in and rain pelted down. It felt more like November than April and we ran home to Suzy and a bottle of much needed wine. After the rain stopped we set off out to walk the circuit of the racecourse passing hurdles and furlong posts. We walked the long course which is a left handed circular course. The distance being 1 and three quarters miles long on the national hunt course and it was this longer walk that we undertook. The rain kept off for the entire walk and we were joined by joggers, other walkers with and without their dogs.

A lovely day out and hopefully we will have another day tomorrow when we visit the lovely castle at Warwick.

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