Day Four: Steel Rigg to Black Carts (14.5 kilometres/9 miles)

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I got up around 7:30. When I drew back the curtains, I got a surprise, it was very foggy out there. I was wondering if it would even be possible to walk as I wouldn't be able to see a thing. However as time progress the fog receded. It did, however, still look cold and miserable. Ah, the British weather so unpredictable, especially after yesterday was so nice and warm. I pottered around getting ready, drinking coffee, packing my bag and watching TV, until it was time for me to go down to breakfast. When I had checked in the night before, I had selected what type of breakfast I wanted and it what time I wanted it. Of course, I had opted for the full Northumbrian and I helped myself to juice, coffee and toast, while waiting for it to be made. The dining room wasn't too full, but everybody in there seemed to be hikers. I didn't have to wait long for my meal. It was delicious, I haven't had a proper cooked breakfast in years and I really, really enjoyed it. I think black pudding should be mandatory on every breakfast. I dropped my bag off in reception ready for the baggage transfer service. I also needed to settle up my bill, as my food and drink the previous evening had went over my £15 credit. Since it was only about £1.50 over, they wrote it off. Happy days!

The fog had lifted even more by the time I set off, but the weather was still pretty crappy, it was raining lightly, and the temperature had definitely dropped from the day before. I definitely needed both my jackets on. I followed the road back up to the trail and followed the signpost to right. I followed what I thought was the trail, but got a lost, so had to re-position myself to be in the right place. Pretty much straight away I was ascending again. Although I was enjoying hiking in the cooler weather, if the weather had of been nicer, it would have made the views better. Suppose I can't have it both ways. I saw Peel Crags and Milecastle 39, as the path continued up and down. I knew that Sycamore Gap was close by and I was convinced that I had walked path it and missed it. I was gutted that I must have missed the most iconic part of the trail and was trying to console myself when I saw it up ahead. Sycamore Gap is also named Robin Hood's Tree as it was in the film; Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves starring Kevin Costner. I have fond memories of watching the movie growing up and although I can't remember the scene with the tree, I stopped to admire it. I even walked a bit off trail to get some better photos, which was a good effort as I had quickly stopped doing that as it added extra distance to my journey.

The trail rose once again and I continued on, I passed a farm and the trail continued to rise. This section of the hike was pretty busy, I think it is the most popular section and very different to the solitude I was walking in when I started a few days ago. I was walking right next to the wall again today and I could see it stretching for miles in both directions. I continued along and soon came to Housesteads, which is less than three miles from Steel Rigg. I bumped into the two Austrian ladies there and we had a quick chat. I was freezing, so got a cup of coffee from the museum to warm up. I also paid the entrance fee, which was £7.00. I took my coffee to watch the information video about Housesteads, it was interesting and then I had a look around the museum. Once I had warmed up, I headed outside to look around the former fort. I started to take a look around, when a gentleman conducting a tour invited me to join them, as it was free and open to everyone. The tour was good and it was nice to be talked through the history of the site. Housesteads was a garrison of 800 men, it is hard to imagine so many people there now. We were shown the different quarters for the different rank of soldier. The garrison was built within a decade of the Hadrian's Wall around 122 AD. The latrines here are very well preserved and it was interesting to see that going to the toilet was a communal affair back in those days. The famous phrase 'the wrong end of the stick' come from the Roman method of cleaning your bum, a stick of wood with a sponge attached to one end.

I headed back up to the trail and headed right. This part of the trail was quite busy, but a lot quieter than the part pre-Housteads. I could see pretty far in the direction I was heading. The scenery was glorious, despite the fog. There is a certain openness to the countryside, it feels like it is going on and on forever. There were more crags and small lakes to see. While I was walking along the trail, it abruptly changed direction, that really confused me. I could still see parts of the wall, so knew I was going in the right direction, but I wonder what made it change its route so sharply. I passed a random white pillar, later on I looked it up in my guidebook to find out that it is a defunct ordnance survey marker. Onwards I trudged across fields until the trail reached a road and the trail followed the road, or was the road built to follow the wall? I continued on along the edge of the field by the road. It was pretty quiet, not many cars going past.

The trail then crossed the road and I headed through land that looked a lot more overgrown, however once on it, there was a clear path. I soon reached Brocolitia and the Temple of Mirthas. Mirthas was an eastern god and as the legend goes he had captured and killed a primeval bull in a cave. Therefore Mithraic temples were always small and gloomy and they wished to recreate said cave. This temple is thought to have been built around 200 AD by soldiers stationed at the fort. There was a group of hikers there, that I overtake and who overtake continually throughout the hike. I has a quick look around the temple, there was some interesting stonework. I also chatted to another couple of hikers, who had been staying at the pub too. I left the temple and passed by where the fort had been, I don't think there is much left to show how it was. There were quite a few cows in the field and they were all concentrated near the pathway through. Luckily, I wasn't attacked by one, but I was wary walking past them as I was the closest I have been. I came out on to the road and crossed it. I was following the path of the wall through a ditch. I came to a place called Limestone Corner, which was just a stretch of grass strewn with limestone rocks, not that impressive. I knew that I was getting closer to where I was staying that night, so I remained vigilant looking for signs and for the road to turn off on to. I was still walking next to the wall, however on this stretch there were lots of cows. They were standing right next to the wall and I didn't want to walk through them. There was a break in the wall so I crossed to the other side, putting some distance between me and the cows. I passed the cows successfully, but was now stuck on the wrong side of the wall, so I had do something naughty. In order to preserve the Wall, you are asked not to touch it or walk on, apart from one small section. I had to climb onto and over the Wall. Sorry Wall, I hope I didn't damage you, but death by cow was not something I fancied.

As I exited the field, just in front of the field containing the 'Black Carts', there were signs pointing the direction down to Green Carts Farm, which is the place, where I would be spending the night. On my map it didn't look too far, all I had to do was follow the road. I think it was maybe another kilometre or two to the farmhouse. Not what I wanted when I was tired. This was definitely a working farm, I could smell the manure in the air. I hobbled down the path to the farmhouse. The owner greeted me there and took me to the cottage on the premises. I think I got there around 4 pm, so quite a bit of time to relax and recuperate. There are a few different options available on the farm. I had gone for the bunkhouse, as opposed to the camping barn, which was a bit more primitive. The bunkhouse was really nice. There was a kitchen/sitting room downstairs, with two bedrooms each containing two sets of bunk beds upstairs. What was even better was that I had the place to myself! The cost for a night here was £25 pounds and included breakfast in the morning, I was also able to select what time I want to eat breakfast. There was a wifi code on the board in the kitchen, but I couldn't find the wifi connection, I'm not sure if it still available, so I watched TV and read to pass the time. The owner had offered me a lift to the pub so that I could get some dinner, but I was far too tired. Instead I ate the sandwich I had purchased earlier and other random stuff I had in my backpack. Although I had the bunkhouse to myself, other people popped in and out. There was a really interesting old couple, that I happily spent a couple of hours chatting to. My legs were very sore and I tried my best not to have to use the stairs unless absolutely necessary. I was in bed by around 9:30 pm. It was so quiet, in fact it felt too quiet, almost creepy with the lack of noise.

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Photos

Sycamore Gap
Robin Hood's Tree

Sycamore Gap
Robin Hood's Tree

Sycamore Gap
Robin Hood's Tree

Meeting the Peninne Way
Hadrian's Wall Path