Day Five: Black Carts to Heddon-on-the-Wall (29.5 kilometres/18 miles)

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And I thought that the trek to Steel Rigg was bad, not a patch on today!

I was up early, I had slept fairly well and was ready when the owner brought my breakfast over. I had a Full English here, too. It was really good and I scoffed the lot. It set me up nicely for the day's long walk ahead. Due to the limited, cheap accommodation on offer, I would be walking 20+ miles today. I had tried to book a hostel months ago in Heddon-on-the-Wall, but it was full. The other places were too expensive or further out. Everybody seemed to be having trouble finding somewhere to stay there, as I had talked to a few others about it. Luckily, I would be able to head home and spend the evening in my own bed, something I was looking forward to.

I left the farm not long after 8 o'clock. I headed up the track towards the main road and to re-join the trail. The walk was fairly quick, a lot quicker than it had taken my tired legs the day before. I was soon standing in front of the field that had Black Carts turret in it. Black Carts means sour peaty soil and Green Carts, the place I had stayed at, means sweet fertile soil. Seems like one farmer lucked out and the other didn't. I walked through the field and came to the next one. Just beyond the gate, where a bunch of cows. They were blocking the entrance to the field and looking at me totally defiantly. The little feckers! There was no way I could walk through them, evil bar stewards, so I had to walk further down to the big gate and use that to enter the field. Then I slowly and carefully walked to join the trail, wary of the evil cows behind. Cumbrian cows were so much nicer. I came out of the fields and was now walking along the road, going towards the village of Walwick. The village was small an quiet. It looked like it would be a nice place to stay.

The trail lead me out of the village and downhill. I then came to some kind of big old house, which looked semi-abandoned as there were a lot of sheep roaming about on the grass surrounding it. Further along the road, on the opposite side, there was Chesters Roman Fort. I wish that I'd had the time to go inside for a nose about. Continuing straight along the road I came to the village of Chollerford. I saw some other hikers here. Since I was in need of the toilet I stopped in at the tearooms attached to the petrol station for a coffee. The food looked nice and I wished I'd been hungry. Exiting the tearooms, I saw the George Hotel opposite, I had been there many, many years ago for a meal. I crossed the Chollerford Bridge, which goes over the River Tyne. There are a few spots to stop and take in the views. It is really pretty. On the other side of the bridge I saw a sign showing the distance to Heddon-on-the-Wall was 13 and ½ miles. However, the Hadrian's Wall path doesn't follow that route and the next official sign I came to said that it was 15 miles to Heddon-on-the-Wall. Bugger! I as walking alongside the road, when I saw a signpost pointing out Brunton Turret, since I was still feeling fresh, I went for a look at it. A slightly more substantial piece of wall than some of the other bits I have passed, but maybe not worth the detour. From the main road, the trail veered off onto a smaller road surrounded by fields. It was really pretty and there was some nice shade here, too. I continued on past a place called Planetrees. The trail got muddy again here and I was trying to work out the best route around the mud. My chosen route didn't work out too well and I slipped and fell. Whilst I was loudly scolding myself, one of the hikers I had met yesterday came along. We walked together for a bit near the Stanley Plantation, which was nice and shaded and came out on to the main road by the Errington Arms in Portgate. I saw the group of hikers from yesterday waiting outside of the pub and we gave each other a wave.

I still had about ten miles to go to reach Heddon-on-the-Wall. This part of the trail was pretty much a straight line. Although there were a couple of deviation, which I don’t know if were really necessary. I was getting tired (already), but managed to keep up a good pace. The trail was walking along the edge of farmers’ fields and I saw a lot more hikers, coming and going in both directions. I didn’t envy those carrying their camping gear. I was having to carry my proper backpack with me today and I was feeling the extra weight. I was gutted about having to carry the things I had never used, like my sleeping bag and flask. I was glad I had eaten all my surplus food yesterday. I decided enough was enough and sat down to take a rest. I munched on a protein bar to give me some energy. I had been hiking on and off with another hiker, but she was determined to keep going, I wish I had her persistence. I should have remembered that while taking a rest feels good, it is so much harder to get going afterwards. My body had totally seized up and was feeling really stiff.

Earlier, I had thought about stopping at the pub or teahouse for something to eat, but I knew that if I did that, I would not want to move again. I walked along the road past the pub and then the trail continued in the Wall Ditch. When the trail came out at the road once more, I was surprised to see a body of water. It was Whittle Dene Reservoir Pond, well one of the them, this was the smaller one, and the bigger one is on the other side of the road. Then it was more walking in the Wall ditch and then emerging at the top of a hill, at a place called Harlow Hill. There was what looked like a hotel and accommodation, but it had been abandoned. It’s a shame as it would have been a nice place to stay if somewhat remote. The views from up here were gorgeous, I could see for miles. I wandered past the rest of the village, just a few houses and saw a sign for Albemarle Barracks. It’s not often you see signs of the army in the UK. The trail wound down the road leading out of the village. I crossed the road and followed the trail which took me on a detour away from the main road.

I followed the trail right by Iron Side Farm, this was a smaller country road. I wandered past the nice looking accommodation there. The trail then turns and goes along a path which has a lot of trees overhead. They make the path seem like it is in a green tunnel. It was so cool and the picture I took doesn’t do justice to how amazing it looked in real life. The path continued around the other side of the farm and then re-joined the main road. I was so tired by this point, so I totally resented having to do what I felt was a pointless detour. The next part of the trail was uphill, just what I wanted, not! I also crossed a bridge over a small stream called March Burn. I knew that there was a Roman Fort coming up soon, and I was eager to see it, as there hadn’t been much to see on today’s trail, just lots of walking. Well I was in for a big disappointment, I got to the field which housed Vindovala Fort, and although there were plenty of sheep, there was little evidence of the fort that had stood there, maybe only a couple of stones. I crossed over the path, that I think, was leading to the farm and walked along the edge of the farmer's fields. I could see a fire up ahead. The farmer was burning some stuff. He had a cute dog with him and he told me that I was only a couple of miles from Heddon-on-the-Wall.



I was absolutely knackered by this point. I knew that I was getting closer and to the end of my walking for the day and I really wanted it to be over, I had zero motivation left. I was so sore and tired. I was on the verge of crying, I was exhausted. I exited the farmer's field and I could see the motorway very close by. Why did I have to go up steps to cross? My legs and my nerves could barely cope with it. I was now walking next to a busyish road. I then crossed a bridge, over the motorway and followed the road round. I saw the sign for Heddon-on-the Wall, sweet relief, I was almost there. Bless the little kid, who stuck his head out of his car window to give me a wave, it was definitely the encouragement I needed. I was also feeling disgruntled at the spritely hikers that were passing me. I continued along the road and I could see some building and a crossroads up ahead. I had figured out that one of them, must be The Three Tuns, where I would be finishing for the day. There wasn't a nicer feeling in the world than taking off my backpack and hiking boots and slipping on my flip-flops. Pure bliss! I went for a drink, non-alcoholic, in the pub. It was a proper man's pub. I think I was in some kind of shock after the hike as I got the chills while sipping my coke. Only one more day to go!

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Photos

Beautiful Morning
Green Carts

The End
Almost...
For today...