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Published: June 27th 2009
Well..... its over. Our travels have reached their conclusion, the adventure has come to an end, and we're now back on the same landmass as you guys. However, this blog is far from finished: despite being home for nearly a month, there is still much island-hopping, volcano climbing, temple visiting, and dodgy transport riding, to catch up on from our final 6 weeks in Indonesia and Malaysia. This last period was one of the busiest; with the flight back home looming ever closer on the horizon, we attempted to cram in as much as possible. There have also been many blog-worthy occurrences since our return to Blighty - with a short trip to France, and a longer visit to Manchester - and this is what we'll cover in the following paragraphs. But, never fear, we still intend to conclude the real travelling escapades in the near future as well (by which time there'll also be tales to tell from our upcoming Polish expedition, so this could go on for a while yet!).
We've been back in England for nearly 3 weeks now. This is only a fleeting return though, as, come Monday, we'll be leaving this shores again for a
10-day jaunt around Poland (we are due another holiday, after all). Our short stint at home has been a rather odd experience; attempting to adjust back to normal life back in the Kingdom hasn't been easy with the knowledge that we'll soon be setting off again. It’s been a long overdue opportunity to see friends and family after such a long absence, but has proved difficult to temporarily settle back in. Hannah has been fortunate enough to get straight back into work, which has helped occupy much of her time. James, on the other hand, has spent a week sightseeing in Manchester, and a week at home; researching the options available for his travel journalism aspirations (delusions!?). The two of us also spent a long weekend in France celebrating Grandma Swan's octageneric birthday, and its this event we'll briefly (kind of) turn to first.
Arriving back from Malaysia on June 3rd, we barely had time for a proper cuppa, before boarding another flight for the short hop across the channel. Still, these few moments back in England, after so long in Asia, were more than enough for us to experience some 'reverse culture shock'. On landing at Heathrow, we
were instantly struck by the awful carpet covering the entire floor space. Like a rejected magic-eye design, the hideous, headache-inducing patterns on display (only worsened by the stark, fluorescent lighting overhead) can't be the best first impression to give visitors from overseas. We've spent many hours in numerous airports during our time in the Far East, all in supposedly less-developed countries, yet all streets ahead in terms of aesthetics, modernity and style, with shiny floors and slick, eye-pleasing design. This may only be a cosmetic flaw, and have no real bearing on the functionality of the terminal as a whole, but it definitely lowers the initial impression of the country. And don’t even get us started on the price of….. well, everything! Comfortably living on £20 a day is no longer an option.
Another startling observation we made was that, despite the smorgasbord of cultures, colours and beliefs on display at passport control, every employee still had one thing in common: the inability to smile. It may be a prerequisite in the job description, or something strongly emphasised in the induction training, but all of these guys had it down to a tee. A trait, it turned out, that
they share with many other Londoners. After half a year enjoying spontaneous, smiley exchanges with friendly, Asian strangers we had to learn quickly how to keep a stern, straight face, and not to look directly at anyone we didn't already intimately know. This may be a slight exaggeration, and possibly something that’s only issue in big, bustling cities, but following our 6 month immersion in more collectivist and open cultures, the relative cold, indifference of strangers in London was quite disconcerting.
Still, we successfully navigated the faulty underground lines and made it back to our corresponding households. A couple of nights at home with the relieved parents and then straight back to the airport for a flight to Dinard in Brittany. On this occasion, we flew on Ryanair from East Midlands airport and, while we don't intend to dwell on the negatives, are there any ruder or more unhelpful employees in the world? Maybe there's stiff competition for the monthly 'Most Unfriendly Staff Member' award, or perhaps budget airlines also give out budget wages. Whatever the reason, the frosty treatment we received here was most unnecessary. Our long weekend in France more than made up for it though. We
Guess where?
Picture Postcardhad a wonderful time, and Hannah really appreciated a rare opportunity to see relatives from abroad. The main event on the Saturday night went swimmingly, and we spent a further two days taking in the cobbled streets and enchanting medieval architecture in the old town centres of nearby Rennes and Dinan. Multiple photographs should be on display throughout this blog. Back in the UK once again, Hannah got stuck back into proper work, and James spent a week up in Manchester with his ex-uni housemates (hence the imminent, seamless switch to 1st person perspective).
During our 6 months in Asia, as we were hopping from town to town, avidly researching the history of each location and thoroughly exploring what every area had to offer, it occurred to me how embarrassingly little I actually knew about Manchester - the place I called home during 3 years of University. Despite all this time as an honorary Mancunian, I was ashamed to realise that I knew more about the layout and attractions of dozens of foreign cities, than I did about my Northern home from home. I could tell you exactly which bars to attend if you want to get drunk on
a tenner, or where to get the cheapest chicken kebab late at night, but further than this I was pretty clueless. I knew for a fact that Manchester is a great city, with a huge amount to offer (whether it be historically, architecturally, culturally or socially) but it made me feel a little embarrassed to admit that I hadn't taken advantage of such opportunities during my previous time here. So, in order to remedy this dire situation, I set out with the relevant Lonely Planet chapter in my hand, determined to become more acquainted with the real Manchester.
Day 1 up North I decided to visit two of the main attractions in Salford Quays. I'd never even set foot in this part of town before, but now, with little Sophie Richards in tow, I headed for the Lowry and the Imperial War Museum North. The former is a world-renowned arts centre, named after local artist LS Lowry. A bit of an oddball recluse in his time, Lowry became especially popular in the North for his humanistic depictions of life in an industrialised town. Over 300 of his creations are kept at the Lowry complex, and several dozen are on
display at any one time. There is also a very brief and informative video introduction to the life and times of this intriguing artist, playing on a loop in a little cinema room. We watched this video, and then took in some of his most popular works. Lowry painted in a very striking and individualistic fashion - famous for his sketchy 'matchstick men' and vast, unpopulated landscapes - and his works can be as eerie as they are captivating. At the time of our visit, the Lowry was also hosting an interactive dance exhibition. So, the two of us spent a further hour bopping, twirling, hand-jiving, and dressing up as hip-hop/ballet dancer hybrids. An hour well spent.
Next on the days itinerary was the Imperial War Museum North - a short hop across the shipping canal via the impressive, twisting structure of the Lowry Footbridge. Another imposing, but brilliantly designed building, this museum contains a huge, open-plan, permanent exhibition hall, charting the history of 20th Century conflicts in a remarkably engaging fashion. As in the Lowry, admission is free (although a substantial donation is strongly recommended) which is astounding really, considering the costs involved with building and maintaining such
structures, and the immense value of their contents. Quality, free museums and exhibitions is something that Britain does do well, and something we should appreciate and take advantage of more frequently. Soph and I spent a while educating ourselves on the intricacies of 20th Century warfare, but had only made it to the Cold War when it was time to ride the days last rickety, vertigo-inducing lift up to the rooftop viewing platform. It proved to be well worth the nausea though; providing a unique, birds-eye perspective over the main sights in Salford Quays - including the Lowry and Old Trafford - as well as panoramic views further afield. Back on the tram to Piccadilly Gardens (another first for me... the tram, not the gardens) we rendezvoused with another couple of University chums - Rick & Geraint - before heading back to Fallowfield. The rest of the day was spent exploiting the 'Monday Club' discounts on offer at the local Wetherspoons - another upmarket evening in a quality establishment.
The following morning started badly, with myself and Rick attempting a quick drive to town in his 12-year-old Mondeo (known as 'Blue Lightning' on the Winchester street racing circuit). The
More Buildings in Rennes
This picture provides the best 'feel' of Rennes Old Town Centre poor, old dear barely made it to the end of the road, before spluttering to a halt. Within an hour we received the devastating news that she wouldn't be featuring in any future Winchester race days: she's a goner, and currently rusting street side in Fallowfield. Still, better to find out like this than half-way through the following days intended road trip to Alton Towers. All of us were hit hard by the loss, and consequently spent the rest of the day drowning in the end of exams Fallowfest celebrations. A lack of memory and photographic reminders means that there's not a whole lot more to report from this fateful day.
Such idleness and procrastination was only a blip in my touristic explorations of Manchester though, and I was back in the city centre bright and early (afternoon) on Thursday. Little Richards was busy mending little mistakes at work, so I was forced to go solo on this outing. First port of call was the Victorian Police Museum, described in the Lonely Planet as 'one of Manchester's best-kept secrets'. On arrival at the door, however, I discovered how this place has managed to remain such a secret: 'Open between
Empty Tables
Prepared for the imminent midday rush 10.30am and 3.30pm... Tuesdays only'! A guaranteed way to build up a sense of mystery (or frustration?) is to only open for 5 hours in the middle of the week. Undeterred, I continued on the days planned expedition, through the heart of the city's shopping district, and onto another major tourist draw - the glass-wrapped, eye-catching wedge known as the Urbis Centre. Yet another unmissable Manchester landmark that I'd previously failed to visit. More free admission agreed nicely with my nonexistent daily budget, and the exhibitions contained within were surprisingly good. Once past some of the more pretentious works - giant, paper-mache Jesus heads, anyone? - there's actually plenty of worthwhile stuff to see. My visit coincided with a retro video-game exhibition, covering the entire first level floor space (although a steep £3 entry fee, and inside knowledge that many of the games were in need of repair, meant that I actually gave this a miss). The top floor art space, however, housed a bewitching display of oversized photographs, depicting forgotten and unknown areas in Manchester. The focus of these pictures ranged from ancient, underground canalways to the dusty, abandoned upper echelons of Town Hall and the Palace Hotel. The
Lou & Han in Rennes
Mussels & cider from a cup - the perfect lunch? 15 prints on show provided a completely unique perspective on the city; hugely recognisable landmarks captured from beguiling, never-before-seen, vantage points and angles. Even when viewed simply from an aesthetic point of view - detached from any symbolism or knowledge of location - these photos alone made my visit to the Urbis worthwhile. I eventually dragged myself away and followed the sound of pneumatic drills down Deansgate and back to Albert Square. Along the way, I took the time to appreciate some of Manchester's many architectural wonders, basking in the glorious late afternoon sun - The Manchester Cathedral, John Ryland's Library, St. Anne's & St. Mary's churches, the Town Hall, and the Central library, all found themselves at the end of my lens.
Thursday night was a quiet one, and Friday morning was somehow lost. But I was back in town again by 1pm, savouring a quick cup of tea with Nick Gurney - architectural wonderkid, and Xbox aficionado extraordinaire. All too soon, his lunch break was over though, and I was back to my lonesome. Determined to make the most of the afternoon, I set off for some serious wanderings around the bohemian-like Northern Quarter - this is
Rennes Bakery
Lots of tempting goods on offer where the cool kids hang out! During my previous 3 years in Manchester, I only ventured into this part of town on a couple of rare occasions, and both times a little too 'tired and emotional' to recall much. So, I was grateful for another opportunity to investigate this area more thoroughly, and was pleasantly surprised with what I found. If you avoid the multitude of sex shops (there's obviously increased demand in this part of town) there is plenty to keep one entertained. This is the place to come if you're looking for that rare LP, vintage film poster, custom-made platform boots, or anything in between. One extra-special gem amongst these specialist outlets is the 'Manchester Craft & Design Centre': two floors of independent artists, each hard at work in their various fields, creating and selling items from their individual workspaces. Local photography, abstract painting, handmade jewellery, one-off clothing, ceramic wares; its all on offer here, finished to a very high standard, and through a more personal shopping experience then you'll find anywhere else. Perfectly complimented by a gorgeous little cafe, the centre isn't particularly well known (even amongst lifelong Manchester residents) but it deserves far more attention and
appreciation. I was back in Fallowfield that evening, and out for more drinks with a couple of Psychology girls (Ellen & Lauren - I hope everyone's appreciating the name-drops, by the way!).
Saturday was slower-paced, with myself and Gurney taking advantage of the half-price, early-bird cinema tickets available at the Odeon to catch Ken Loach's 'Looking For Eric'. A fantastic film - gripping, heart-warming and slightly absurd - even if you're not a Cantona fan, give Terminator a miss and see this instead. The remainder of my day was largely spent on a hot date with Sarah Thorndyke (yet another Psychology groupie). For maximum brownie points, I put my recently-gained local knowledge to use, and impressed this Rochdale gal with a tour of the Urbis and a trip to the recently discovered Craft & Design centre. The lesson here is that, with just a little background research, you can become a most magnificent date! Once the showing-off was complete, I briefly called in back at the house, rounded up the troops, and headed straight back to the Northern Quarter for a trendy night out. A little bruising on the wallet, but this is the price you pay to be
A Crane-filled Horizon
Lots of construction work underway at Salford Quays seen in the most happening drinking dens.
My final full day in Manchester didn't begin until late (the previous nights festivities were partly to blame). But the afternoon was far from wasted as myself, Nick, Sophie, and Woody (who has avoided a mention so far due to a suspicious new job working long hours on Canal Street... hmmm) headed to a Pitch & Putt golf course in nearby Bruntwood Park. Such expeditions have become tradition in our house and make for a guaranteed fun day out. The course is quite expansive, with a full 18 holes, and is popular with people of all ages; from preschoolers through to pensioners. If you live in Manchester and haven't been before - give it a go! This was my last activity of note up North, and I was on the train back to the Midlands by early Monday afternoon. Thus bringing to an end my hugely enjoyable week as a tourist in Manchester. I decided to approach this place from a totally fresh perspective - actually getting out there and seeing what the city has to offer - after my 3 unproductive years as a lazy student resident. What I found completely
changed my opinion of the city. The respect I have for Manchester, and the treasures contained within, has now been infinitely increased. Without wanting to get too preachy, I think this serves as an important reminder that we shouldn't always automatically look hundreds of miles overseas for suitable sites of exploration, but take the time to fully appreciate what we're lucky enough to have right on our doorstep instead. A guidebook to the UK now proudly sits atop my Christmas wish list.
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carol ross
non-member comment
It continues.....
Well James, I have enjoyed this. Dinan is now firmly on my list of places to visit, what a lovely village! love Mum xxx