Return to England - London, Sunday 2010 September 12

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What a mixed and full day! I left the hotel at 10:00 to walk to St Bartholomew the Great to listen to the Sung Eucharist, as discovered on the internet. The Google map worked really well until the last few intricacies of turning. (Later I saw that one of the streets was incorporate into a construction site.) I had brought a city map and, by consulting it, zigzagged my way until I saw the church down a short street. It was completely hemmed in by other buildings and was only distinguishable by its stonework. Even then I couldn’t see how to get in because of more scaffolding. (Apparently everything is being cleaned and refurbished for 2012.) A church-going-looking woman was walking purposefully towards me (it was very close to the 11:00 service time), and I asked her. Sure enough she was attending the service and led me through the side yard. Unfortunately, at the door and attendant apologized that the service had begun at 10:00 on this Sunday!

I slipped into a back seat to listen to the last part of the service, thankfully with some singing by the choir. The church is remarkably plain with virtually no effort to restore it – perhaps a small congregation. The variation in stone and possibly cement plaster made me wonder if the roof collapsed in the Blitz and was later minimally rebuilt. The architecture inside is barrel vault, with just a hint of gothic pointed arch at the stubby transept. The alignment of the church seems to have been reversed – the choir sat in the stalls of the nave but the altar and priests were at the other end, which is the back of most churches. We entered through the east transept, and were asked to leave by the west door - in an almost peremptory way - so they could prepare for the firefighters service. I took a circuitous route to exit so I could look at some of the relatively few funeral stones and carvings inside the church. One had a date of 1652 on it; more careful reading of their website is in order at home.

Rounding the church to the large public square, I encountered large numbers of ceremonially dressed firefighters, their families and non-uniformed dignitaries – plus several old fire trucks. Later I heard this was a memorial for the firefighters in the Blitz, and I did see a wreath for Canadians. At this stage I just videoed and enjoyed the pageantry with a sense of anticipation. Following some other observers, I went back in the west gate into the churchyard for a great perspective. The church sits below its own churchyard, and a stone retaining wall divides off a path from the main square. From this elevated yard, I could watch the procession gradually flow into the church.

By this time I rather urgently needed to find a café for its facilities, tea and possibly lunch. Had to delay to take some photos of the closed Smithfield Market across from the church. (I was later told it only opens from about 3:00 – 10:00 a.m. because it is a meat market for restaurants.) It, like everything else, is being restored, so was encased in plastic hoarding along much of the extensive wings. The arcaded entrance was wonderful – turquoise and purple metal filigree.

Being Sunday, almost every place was closed, but I spied one Italian café (where there were some firefighters, presumably not invited in to the service, but really enjoying themselves). I had a cup of green tea (£2.20!) and pasta with spicy sausage sauce (£7.95). Plus, I asked the waiter the way to St Paul’s Cathedral, which didn’t seem far on the map. Dead easy. On the way, I passed the Old Bailey and the Central Criminal Courts of “Rumpole of the Bailey” fame.

A sign outside St Paul’s explained that on Sunday it was not open for tourism but everyone was welcome to enter for inspiration and worship. No photos and no entry to the balconies or altar. I did enter. I enjoyed just looking at the cathedral – white marble, round arches, golden embellishments. The organ was being played, sound filling the enormous space. I sat for quite a while in a side chapel, eyes closed, just letting myself go with the music.

Outside again, on the steps, I was in a prize position to photograph the firefighters unexpectedly parading from St Bartholomew’s to a war memorial across the street from St Paul’s – bands playing, colours being trooped, dignitaries and representatives from the forces striding.

Once my photographing desires were satisfied, I thought I would try to find the Millennium Bridge, from the map seemingly not far away. In fact, when I looked in the right direction I could easily see it. Passing by the still parading firefighters, I joined the throngs crossing the Bridge, enjoying the perfectly sunlit views of the Thames. About halfway across I noticed even tighter throngs on the south bank. This was the weekend of the Annual Mayor’s Thames Festival. I chose to walk west, where lots of booths were selling every kind of cuisine and every imaginable craft and clothing. People good-naturedly jostled to see a demo creating modern cartoons, and a big band musical act beside a hoola-hoop area for kids and the young-at-heart.

I kept vacillating in mind between staying at the Festival or returning to St Paul’s for evensong or to get some tea. Thinking I could hear the evensong through the large vent grills in the café below the Cathedral, I decided on tea – and then undecided because of the outrageous cost! So upstairs I went and was glad to be able to sit almost alone in the little chapel again, listening to the evensong.

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Photos

St Bartholomew the Great
Not what I had imagined! A tiny entrance through an old gate.

St Bartholomew the Great
Through the gate into the low courtyard

Smithfield Market
Quiet after lunch, but reportedly bustling and noisy at dawn

The Old Bailey
Walked right into the real site of Rumpole of the Bailey!

St Paul's Cathedral, Millennium Bridge
Perfect end to a perfect day!

Old Bailey
Quiet on a Sunday, full of history every other day

Streetscape
Walking in London streets is an entertainment in itself.

Streetscape in London
Fabulous building with a tavern!