Catching up with the Romans of Deva

---

Woolly says – A twenty minute train ride away from Wrexham is the historic city of Deva, founded as a "castrum" or Roman fort in the reign of the Emperor Vespasian in 79 AD, it became one of the main army camps in Roman Britain. In 689 King Ethelred of Mercia founded the Minster Church of West Mercia, which later became the cities first cathedral. Although the Normans did their best to bring carnage to the place many of the buildings have survived and it has one of the best preserved walled cities in Britain. So much to see and do, I had a snack to pass the time.



My small friend could hardly contain his excitement and even a deep frown from the man opposite him as he bounced higher and higher on his seat didn’t deter him, I handed him a snack in the hope that it might bring calm to the railway carriage.



Woolly says – The walk from the railway station and into the main areas was a delight, huge Georgian and Victorian buildings graced the roads and as we approached the centre itself I didn’t know where to look first, so much black and white to take in as I craned my neck above the shop line. A few of the buildings are from Tudor stock but many of them were Victorian restorations, all of them provided a wonderful vista, although I’m not sure Zoe was taking much in as all I could here was mutterings about Next, Lush and other high street brands, I think she’ll mange without any shopping today!





We can all hope for that!





Woolly says – A large ornate clock caught my eye standing proudly on the bridge straddling the main through fare. The street was known as Eastgate and the clock as, Eastgate Clock, they stand on the site of the original entrance to the Roman fortress of Deva. It is a prominent landmark and is said to be the most photographed clock in England after Big Ben. Jo snapped a few pictures joining in with the throng of tourists in the same vicinity. The present gateway dates from 1768 and is a three-arched sandstone structure which carries the walkway forming part of the city walls. In 1899 the clock was added to the top of the gateway to celebrate the diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria two years earlier. It was beautiful and as I added it to my list of things to look at closer. I shot round a corner and into the Cathedral grounds.





As he disappeared through a small alley we dutifully followed behind.



Woolly says – The Cathedral was spectacular with its gothic gargoyles winking at me from above and the building work itself that was incredible. The original church was built in the Romanesque style but was rebuilt from around 1250 onward in the Gothic style, a process which took about 275 years, I bet that took a lot of tea bags for the builders! I padded my way inside to be confronted by a large tank containing a fully grown cow suspended in blue water, it was dead I hasten to add, I seriously didn’t know what to make of it and as Jo approached she didn’t look to impressed at the exhibit either and having refused to take a picture we moved onto a variety of other weird and wonderful exhibits depicting a range of animals, a large board explained that the cathedral were currently hosting an exhibition entitled, The Ark. As I sat down for a moment and looked around me, the wood carving of the choir stalls were incredible and the ceiling stupendous, nearly as good as some of the Vatican ceilings if truth be told. The windows were highly interesting going from very traditional colours and designs to modern vibrancy and more Picasso type artwork.



I’m not sure that I have come across quite so many different styles of stained glass windows in one religious building before but as we wandered into the cloisters it got even better.



Woolly says – Beautiful glasswork showing saints and celebrating religious occasions covered the one side while with it’s gothic like stone ceilings and burial chambers on the other side, it was most impressive. I could see a glimpse of the internal garden through the glass but although we had nearly completed the quadrant I was still to find a way into it, as I started my second trip round I discovered the way in through an entrance that seemed to have appeared from nowhere! I trotted into the beautiful green area which gave me a wonderful fountain as it’s centre piece. We sat for a while on one of the handy benches before my tummy gave out rather a loud rumble and Jo gave me one of her stares.



Thinking that lunch might help with the noise we headed back onto the streets and ambled along looking for somewhere to sit down.



Woolly says – So much choice of eateries and restaurants, it was difficult to decide but having spotted a tea shop I felt that they would have something for all of us. I looked longingly at the amazing cakes on display but knowing a certain someone would make me have savoury first I opted for a cheesy croissant which was large, well filled and very delicious…. Why do the crumbs get everywhere on a croissant, it seemed to take Jo hours to un mat my fur and rub me down with a wet wipe before we could head to the most exciting part of the day for me.



Hidden down a small alley, the Dewa Roman Experience occupies a unique site at the heart of the original legionary fortress of Deva. In 1991 archaeologists discovered remains of the fortress on this site and the excavations have been left open for public viewing, I wasn’t sure quite how much we could view of the footings but I was happy to don a hard hat and get to it with it with a pick axe!



Having paid our dues at the ticket desk we entered the hold of a Roman galley ship with its creaking timber and gull cries for affect it was spoilt slightly with the plastic fruits and fish on display!



Woolly says – Minor things in my book, as I rounded a corner…. I wasn’t aware that ships had corners but you learn something new every day I encountered a couple of Romans soaking away in the bath, having waved a hello I wandered on, passing displays of jewellery and oil lamps that had been found on the dig. A sectioned area provided some seats and a video explaining that we were standing two and a half meters above original Roman ruins, I looked down at the floor but failed to see anything except a red patterned carpet, the video told us to go to the right so I led the way into a much colder area with four large holes in the ground. Down below we could make out some stonework and some rebuilt walls but nothing to say what they once were which was a shame. Having expected more I was a little disappointed and as I arrived in the next room to find a range of children’s activities I swallowed back my sadness and happily set about trying to put the women in jail and man my chariot.



It wasn’t the greatest museum by any means but he seemed happy with everything, I just hoped he wouldn’t mind a few shops next to keep Zoe happy!



Woolly says – NO NO NO….. oh did you say ice cream! I put my paw down as the first shop came into view that was on Zoe’s list and refused to move, Jo did the sensible thing and provided me with a rather scrumptious orange cheesecake cone whilst the other female went in and out of the shops. Known as the Rows they are unique in Britain. They consist of buildings with shops or dwellings on the lowest two storeys. The shops or dwellings on the ground floor are often lower than the street and are entered by steps, which sometimes lead to a crypt-like vault. Those on the first floor are entered behind a continuous walkway, often with a sloping shelf between the walkway and the railings overlooking the street. They made great viewing from where I was sat. With another handful of wet wipes used I suggested a return to the Eastgate Clock and a walk along the famous city walls.



Knowing that he wouldn’t be able to see over the walls I gave him a lift up and secured hi into my fleece.



Woolly says – The Grade I listed walls are famous across the world and on a gloriously sunny day they made for an excellent walk. As we passed the rear views of car parks and buildings I felt sure that the Roman centurions would have had a far better view, passing the amphitheatre I barely paused, yes I know your shocked, but even I couldn’t be interested in a semi circle of gravel with a one foot wall round the main entertainment platform of yesteryear. We passed by some columns and the remains of the baths far below us, but as Jo and I had been discussing this as we went, considering how important this city had been to the Romans no one seemed to have made a great effort to actually dig much of it up for me to see!



As the wall came to the banks of the river Dee we descended and sat watching the canoes and ducks floating past in the sunshine.





Woolly says – I really had to hand it to the city of Deva or should I say Chester, it is beautiful in so many different ways and even if it hadn’t been the best for Romans it is one of the most unique places to visit. I sat happily dozing in the sunshine and dreaming of how the Emperor’s soldiers had once stomped up and down this very piece of pavement so very long ago.

---