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October 20th 2010
Published: October 20th 2010
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Plaza Mayor, SalamancaPlaza Mayor, SalamancaPlaza Mayor, Salamanca

Final Iberian night's stopover spot
Sadly, all good things come to an end. So, after a party night out at Fortaleza dancing with Carlos & Co, we had one last day to relax on the beach, take a last swim in the sea, tidy up the apartment and pack. (It had been a great visit to the Algarve, with just a smidgeon of rainy weather (later redeemed by glorious sunshine), some interesting explorations and some enjoyable (and mostly cheap) nights out. The only real hiccup occurred when we lost each other for half an hour in the middle of Luz one day while trying to avoid being held up by roadworks on the main street. And we'll be arguing about who was to blame for that for many years to come!)

On our last morning, we called in at the internet cafe to check for any last minute messages about our planned overnight stay in Valladolid. But no further info was forthcoming, so our pre-arranged booking was obviously cancelled and we would have to find another watering hole for our stopover in Spain.

First, though, we made our way to Lisbon, loaded with cases, picnic, large beach umbrella, presents and pottery - including a
The Main Bullring in LisbonThe Main Bullring in LisbonThe Main Bullring in Lisbon

They don't kill bulls here!
pot large enough to plant a tree in. Getting to Lisbon was pretty easy. There was very little traffic, partly because the toll is so extortionate! And my navigator located the Lagoas Park Hotel brilliantly. It was very modern and luxuriously appointed.

That evening, we caught the commuter train from the area into the city centre in time to do a tour by open-topped bus. But we failed to find a good restaurant when we were dropped off by the bus. So we went back to our hotel and enjoyed the best meal of the entire holiday there. The waitresses were very helpful and even engaged us in agreeable conversation about Portuguese pronunciation and the Brazilian contribution to the language.

Next morning, the sun was again brightly beaming down on our balcony, but the air felt a little cooler than the Algarve air. Our breakfast, though, was excellent, especially the fresh fruit juice. Soon we were on our way again, this time going up the Tejo valley and then alongside the Sierra da Estrela. Very picturesque, especially the bit just before the Spanish border at Vilar Formoso. (Some giant had scattered large grey boulders all over the surrounding
Sunset over Lisbon PrisonSunset over Lisbon PrisonSunset over Lisbon Prison

Sadly, this is where we were at sunset.
countryside, sometimes balancing one boulder on top of another! Or was it all caused by soil erosion?)

Once across the border, the countryside became flat, arid farming country - and all the road signs spoke only of the distance to Salamanca. Obviously, nothing of note was to be expected before Salamanca. And so it proved. But Salamanca was extremely interesting. As you approach, there are no outlying suburbs, only a sudden wall of apartment buildings, on slightly raised land surrounded by miles of open fields. Like a walled city.

Mary had decided that we should stay in Salamanca (known as the Golden City of Spain) for the night. We found the Artheus Carmelitas Hotel to bed down for the night, after exploring the Plaza Mayor and all its surroundings. It was a brilliant city for photographers. We dined at Mesom Cervantes at 9pm, which is early for dinner in Spain.

Next morning, we awoke to find our breath condensing in the cool morning air. Later, on the motorway, we noticed that the outside temperature was only 3 degrees. (And we were only 550 miles from Praia da Luz! What hope for the weather in the UK.) Eventually,
Plaza Mayor at NightPlaza Mayor at NightPlaza Mayor at Night

We've just been for a meal here
the Cantabrian mountains (and their snowy peaks) loomed up in the distance, bringing thick cloud in their wake. So down through the mountain tunnels we went, getting greener and greener countryside on the way.

We had time for a brief stroll along the front at Santander, with a quick sandwich at a pavement cafe before joining the queue of cars waiting to board.

The ship sailed more slowly back to Portsmouth as if reluctant to leave Santander. (The journey takes 25.5 hours, one and a half more than the outward journey.) The entertainment was good, with the bonus of a few renditions from the Cardiff Arms Park male voice choir. Once back in the UK, we had to deal with a traffic jam for the first time of the entire return trip, a distance of 806 miles.

So much for the story. I'll publish the photos later.

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6th December 2010

An impressive adventure!
So glad it all went well. Sounds exhausting but very interesting. A bit warmer than we are experiencing at the moment! These comments from one who has just 'done' New York in 72 hours. Hectic but very rewarding. and all without shopping! Just glad we did it when we did - over Thanksgiving - this last week would have been a different matter travel-wise. See you soon - replacement boiler permitting. Jim and Leo

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