Altea, Costa Blanca


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Europe » Spain » Valencian Community
November 15th 2007
Published: November 28th 2007
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Altea is a lovely town between beaches and mountains. One can easily get lost in the old centre of town where all houses are painted white, contrasting with the blue sky, the sierra's rocky landscape and the greenish blue ocean. The streets were mostly empty and silent at this time of the year, rendering the clean façades a feeling of abandonement and purity.

On the contrary to the large, predominantly English and German populated resorts of Calpe and Benidorm where real estate has gone mad, coughing up disgusting skyscrapers which dot the whole sea front, Altea seems to have better building regulations and manages to integrate the old and the new more harmoniously. Not saying it's any cheaper here though! Economy seems to thrive on the expensiveness of land around here. You can find hundreds of real estate agencies in Altea alone.

There are several good crags in the area, the more easily accessible one being Morro de Toix, between Altea and Calpe. Great mediterranean rock. Climb to a beautiful view of the sea and the Penon de Ifach. Smell the fragrant rosemary, thyme and a profusion of other herbs growing from the rock's pockets and ledges (just mind the prickly species).

Climbing on my own, it took me a while to figure out how to solo an easier route and walk upon the cliff's ledge to set up topropes, but I soon found my way between belay points and switched to several other routes. I was also lucky to meet up some really nice climbers, particularly Jane and Ian from Chester, who I had a good time climbing with.

I left the bike in the garage in Altea for its first service since I left London. It was beautiful and sunny after a showery day and I was dying to go climbing but there's no public transport to Morro de Toix, so after querying here and there I ended up renting a bicycle and making my legs work hard 45 minutes up the hill. It was one of my best climbing days here. My first 6a, hurray! Back down the crag, a 20 min scrambling descent, I realised I had left my helmet all the way up. I seriously considered leaving it there! As I scrambled my way up again, halfway up I noticed the weight of my backpack was making me work harder, so I left the bag on the rock beside the path. I got to the top, retrieved my helmet and descended all the way to the bike just to remember I forgot to pick up the packpack on my way down! What a joy!

If you make it to Altea, check the basic, reasonably priced rooms at Habitaciones La Mar, 82 which is managed by a nice couple. The Restaurante Chino Bienvenido has delicious food and great service. If you are on a low budget like moi, check their combo meals.

There's a pleasant stroll you can take through the gardens by the beach front, where the trees are mercilessly clipped rectangular and along the fisherman's harbor up to the lighthouse. The empty boats shaken by the wind in the harbor make it look so haunted. A million ghosts between dark sea and stars. If you go there in the night try and make contact with ETs from an observatory deck where it reads 'Torre de Babel' in graffiti. I swear I did!


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30th November 2007

nice trip !
Where are you now dear José ? I can see you reached the sixt level ! I am going to get down to work before you are better than me. Bye
16th December 2007

Beautiful Spain
It's lovely to find places that represent a bit of old Spain. The photos are beautiful of the town and all the white-washed houses. I'm getting jealous again now! Glad you're doing okay and enjoying the sun (more than here that's for sure!)

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