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Published: September 18th 2017
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Today seemed like the longest and hardest day yet. I know we've done a couple of days over 30 kilometers, and the first day had to be the hardest, but those days were different. The long days before had lots of variety in both terrain and sights. The first day everything was new, the sights were amazing, and my adrenaline was going. Today was none of the above. It was mostly flat, very windy at times, there were no towns for over 13 kilometers, and the scenery was as boring as it gets, except maybe in a desert. But, I made it.
We left the albergue in Sahagun a little late at almost 8am. Raresh had talked some to the Romanian cook, and she had offered to fix us breakfast for free. It wasn't anything special, but it was free. Alex and Livija had stayed in another albergue and we weren't sure if they would join us, so off we went. Just before we left town, we ran into Alex and Livija, at the albergue they'd stayed at. They weren't ready to go yet, so off we went again.
Ten basically flat kilometers later, we reached the town of
Bercianos del Real Camino, for our breakfast stop at The Bercianos 1900 Albergue/Bar. Not knowing what was available in the 20 plus kilometers ahead, we sort of stuffed ourselves with both tortilla and a big chocolate croissant. The next town, El Burgo Ranero, was another 7 flat, boring kilometers down the Camino. By the time we got there it was already almost 1pm, with a 13 kilometer walk ahead and nothing but a few rest areas. We were, or at least I was, tempted to call quits for the day and stay in one of their albergues. Raresh reminded me that if we did that, we would have to do a 36 kilometer day tomorrow. So, after a coffee and bathroom break at La Costa del Adobe Bar, served by a very friendly Spanish hostess, we started the final walk of 13 kilometers. I should mention that the friendly lady gave us each a nice yellow arrow pin, a symbol of the Camino.
Half way to our final destination, I had to stop at one the rest areas to get motivated again. Just before that, we had encountered a young lady sitting on a bench, looking rather spent. Raresh
got her moving again and didn't want to stop so soon, so he continued on. I caught up with them at the next rest area a couple kilometers later. The lady had sat down, but Raresh wanted to keep going. Those last 6 kilometers or so were really rough, especially when we couldn't see hide nor hair off the town until we were less than half a kilometer away.
We checked into the municipal albergue and did our usual routine. This albergue is a bit bare bones, but comfortable enough, and the hospitalero was friendly. I went out for a brief recconnoiter of the 3 bars and one little supermarket. I got a cafe con leche at the Vive Tu Camino Bar/Albergue so I could let my wife know I'd made it, using their Wi-Fi, since the albergue doesn't have any. I went back for my shower, then back out to the little supermarket to get some dinner (didn't really get any lunch today) and a few necessities. After eating my light dinner, I got my bed and gear ready for tonight, then ate some of the pasta Livija had made. Yes, she is with us again, sans Alex
again. She had taken one of the alternate routes and walked so quickly that she beat us here by half an hour. Ah, youth.
When I sat out front to start on this blog, a friend of the hospitalero came by and invited us to see his bodega caves. Even though he doesn't make wine any more, it wad still really cool to see. I took pictures outside and promised to send them both copies.
Tomorrow we are heading to Leon and may take a rest day there. It's only about 22 kilometers, so it should be an easy day. Also, we are through with the famed boring meseta!
Note: I'll post the photos tomorrow since I am using a bar's Wi-Fi and it is getting late.
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