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Published: September 17th 2017
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Last night Raresh and I ate dinner at the Restaurant Los Canarios because they had the best selection of the places we had to choose from. We were joined by David, an American who worked in Las Vegas for 10 years while living in a motor home, saving 70% of his income. He now travels around the U.S. living out of his RV, taking occasional jobs transferring boats. He has sailed from Washington D.C. to Pensacola Florida, and across the Atlantic. He is doing the Camino for one of the same reasons I am... he saw the movie The Way and was hooked. I ate chicken soup (soap de fideo), breaded hake, and a delicious homemade pastry.
Raresh and I left the albergue alone around 7:30, heading for Sahagun. Alex and Livija wanted to stay a bit later. We planned on stopping at Ledigos, about 6 kilometers away, but at the first open bar, they didn't have any tortillas, or anything else interesting, so we continued on. The next town, Terradillos de Los Templarios didn't have anything either, so we carried on, getting hungry. Moratinos had a bar with delicious looking tortillas and a nice sunny yard, so it became
our breakfast and shoes off break. The town is fairly famous for its bodega caves, several of which are still there. By this point, we'd already walked 12 kilometers and only had 9 more to go.
The last 9 kilometers to Sahagun were less boring than previous days, with some small ups and downs and one small town, San Nicolas del Real Camino. Raresh started slowing down during this section and I had cut back on my pace to not get too far ahead. Most of the time we were following the main highway. We topped a hill and finally saw Sahagun below. We limped into town (even I was running low on energy with my cold still nagging me) and quickly found the albergue we'd planned on staying at, the Albergue Domus Viatoris. It is actually more a nice Hostal with one large room with a bunch of bunk beds. While Raresh showered and recovered, I took a walk around the main part of town nearby to scout out a good place for a light lunch. There were a number of interesting places in one section, so I returned to the albergue, grabbed Raresh, and we headed out.
We ended up eating at the Mason Covadonga. I know, the name sounds fancy, but they had some great dishes at very reasonable prices. I ordered a potato dish that looked like Patatas Bravas but was actually tortilla chunks in a nice sauce, another of tortilla chunks with onions and peppers in a spicy tomato sauce, and a couple of croquetas. With a coffee and tea, the total came to less than 5 euros! Everything was delicious, and what a price. The owner enjoyed making fun of my accent and my insisting that the one dish looked like Patatas Bravas.
After lunch, we headed back to the albergue, stopping briefly at a pasteleria that had a pastry Raresh swore looked just like one from Romania called cremesh or something like that. When we got back, I took my shower and started working on the blog while I waited for dinner. We are going to try the albergue's pilgrim's dinner.
Tomorrow we need to try for a longer day of just over 30 kilometers, so we can make it to Leon the following day.
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
I have a theory...
walking less than ~20km/day, no blisters. More than ~20km/day, blisters. Has that been your experience?