A day of Hiking, HORRIBLE cheese, a 10th century church & a Relic of Christ..hmm

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After a surprising peaceful sleep, considering Becca and I were sharing a large hotel room with 4 small rowdy sugar fueled Spanish children; the Saturday breakfast spread was incredible. Not only did the spread have a large amounts of Spanish traditional breakfast items; like anything chocolate for kids 😊 , but large slices of fresh baked bread and olive oil, or potato tortilla, to a more traditional English breakfast of bangers and mash and a huge fruit spread. Carlos and Natalia had told me in advance that the breakfast spread was amazing and i was glad to say I was not disappointed. lol

After breakfast we rounded up the kids and Carlos and Natalia let me know that we were going to go on a walk in the Picos de Europa National Park which was just a short drive from the hotel.

The National Park Picos de Europa was created in 1918 as Mountain National Park of Covadonga, the first National Park in Spain. In 1995 it was extended to the three massifs of the Picos de Europa therefore changing the name. The park is roughly 65,000 hectares, making it one of the largest protected areas in the autonomous communities, covering land that belongs to three regions: Asturias, Cantabria and Castilla-León.

The park today remains a key of traditional culture related to grazing and the cheese. The landscape is shaped by man in the groups of huts and wetlands, leaving a large presence of domestic animals (cows, goats and sheep) that make up the rich local livestock and processing base of local cheeses appreciated (Gamonéu, Cabrales, Tresviso ...).

After a small hike exploring one of the local trails where we witnessed a large presence of domestic animals (cows and some sheep). Due to the fact that is was a cloudy day with the clouds hanging low in the sky, hiking in the park was slightly damp but the fresh air scent hung in the air. It was the kind of day that although it was wet and cloudy it was all so fresh and green on the trail, It makes you appreciate nature and all that it has to offer and simple reasons why one would want to lessen your impact upon it.

Between the hike and lunch back at the hotel we wandered down to a nearby village and stopped into a little bar for drinks and socializing. Another one of my host family's close friends met us at this village bar. While the women had either a cafe coleta (coffee with cream) or a coke and the men have a glass or two of wine. As we were now such a large group with the additional family joining us(14 in total) the owner of the bar came out and personally greeted us. She then passed around a traditional Austrian very very old aged cheese on a baguette. If i remember correctly it was called Gamonéu; it is very much like an old blue cheese (at least it looked). I was a little hesitant at first; one, due to its age, two due to the fact that it wasn't exactly looking very appealing and thirdly because of the odor it was emitting....... Well turns out I was right to hesitate and question the cheese!! :p Without any exaggeration to me not only did the cheese smell like old, wet, moldy dish rag but the cheese tasted like i would imagine an old, wet, moldy dish rag would taste like.... yuck! Like my host family had pre-warned me it was a strong cheese and if i didn't like it thats completely fine. Being that i have been very open to trying any Mediterranean cuisine, when i had to immediately spit it out...they simply just laughed and smiled. Natalia's best friend Isabella then rushed over and handed me her coke to wash down the taste; which was very much appreciated!

Having lunch back at the hotel, then led to a little time for siesta after, so while the adults had an afternoon drink while Becca and I played with the kids in the backyard playground of the hotel.

Around 3 o'clock we ended up in a small village outside of Potes named Lebena. The small village is home to a small but famous church; The Iglesia(Church) of Santa Maria.

It was built at the request of the counts of Levana, in the 10th century and was declared a national monument in 1893. For a euro per person inside the church you can have a lecture about the history of the church. We did this of course;however, being that it was all in spanish, i only understood a little bit. Natalia informed me of the important parts; however, apparently the speaker was a hilarious joker and had the group laughing alot... this was definitely the first time since my arrival in Spain that it really kind of bothered me that i didn't speak or understand much spanish.

Although i did not understand much of the presentation Natalia did let me in on this important piece of history about the Church. Among the Spanish people of the area there is a long standing joke about the interior altarpiece. In its interior is an 18th centruy Baroque altarpiece with a central carving of the Virgin of good milk. In 1993 the altarpiece was stolen from the church; only to be recovered in later years in a wealthy man's home in the south of Spain. When the altarpiece was recovered and returned it was noted that the Virgin was darker in color. The joke states that the south's heat tanned her and therefore, that the virgin was taking a long standing vacation in the south.

At the top of the altar piece there is a Calvary of the eighteenth century in the center, Christ crucified, to the right, left San Juan and the Virgin. The top of the altar is topped by the head of an angel. The central niche of the altarpiece was occupied by the Virgin Mary or Good Milk of the fifteenth century and one of the most beautiful gothic images of Cantabria.

Also it is said that the "big yew" tree planted outside next to the church was planted 1000 years ago. wicked!

When we visited the church, no pictures were permitted inside.

After the Iglesia of Santa Maria, we visited one of my most important places to visit in Spain..... the Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Miguel!

The history and reason the Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Miguel is so important is because when Christian refugee's from Muslim occupied the south of Spain fled to this valley in the 8th century. When the Muslim army was defeated at Covadonga they were said to be wiped out while retreating through this valley. Settlers of the area brought with them the "Lignum Crucis", supposedly the single biggest chunk of Christ's cross; which had been claimed to have been transported from Jerusalem by Bishop Toribio ...(somebody.. i forget) in the 4th century. Since then the holy relic has been housed there ever since. According to tradition the relic even features the hole in the wood in which the nail that which pierced through Christ's left hand. The relic is considered an extraordinary magnet for faithful people.

One of my favorite parts about walking around and into the Monasterio was the beautiful tall stain glass windows in the high ceilings. When the sun shined through them, the picture was amazing. Also in the garden of the Monasterio, i was blown away by the old stone architecture and the beautiful arrangement of the garden and fountain. A very beautiful and peaceful place.

Just 500m away from the Monasterio de Santo Toribio de Miguel resides a tiny chapel with great valley views called Ermita de San Miguel. A great place to stop and take photo's!

Setpember 18th/2010

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Photos

CIMG2027
you go through these arches into the garden. ie next photo