Romeria del Rocio and Costa de Luz

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Friday, June 10th, we drove 12 hours from France to the Andalusia region of Southern Spain. We arrived at 9pm in the tiny town of El Rocio. We hit traffic coming into town from the pilgrimage of thousands coming into town for the Romeria del Rocio festival. The pilgrimage is said to be the largest Europe. People (Romeros) travel from all over Spain in middle aged clothing and horse drawn wagons to the Guadalquivir River by the village of Almonte to see the virgin Mary statue in the cathedral and partake in a huge Spanish fiesta which carries on for three straight days. Cars aren't allowed at this Spanish festival so everyone rides around the dirt road town on horseback or by horse drawn carriage. The women dress in brightly colored flamenco dresses and the men in boleros and riding gear. We felt like we were transported back in time walking the streets. When we finally arrived we got one of the last spots in the crowed campground. It was a really nice place with a swimming pool, nice facilities and close walking distance to the town (guess that’s how the could charge $106/night). Most people camp in all the surrounding fields or set up their wagons in town at the houses of their brotherhood (representing all the regions/cities of Spain). We walked into town that night and enjoyed some seafood and sangria as we watched the women dance flamenco. Every once in a while the men joined in. John & I even jumped in for a dance. The small town was buzzing until the early hours of the morning.

Saturday, June 11th, we went into town and enjoyed a nice lunch overlooking the lake of the preserve that boarders the town. We went to the cathedral to watch the procession of the floats. Each brotherhood builds a float honoring the virgin. Each had something specific to their region and all were adorned in silver or gold and loads of flowers surrounding a statue of the virgin. The float from Barcelona paid homage to Gaudi’s Sagrada de Familia. The entire brotherhood walked along the ox drawn floats as they paraded through town. Most of the people in town were Spanish. We were two of few tourists. The large groups of family and friends reunited singing songs and drinking wine and of course eating good food. A few of the fancier camp set ups even had entire pig legs with slicers to serve family the prized Spanish ham. It was a truly authentic experience.

Sunday, June 12th, was my 33rd birthday. We spent the day relaxing around the pool sipping the delicious champagne John picked up in France to celebrate. It was also the main day of the festivities. The Romeros arrive at dawn and go to mass as a statue of Mary is brought to the church. They chant "Viva la Reina de la Marisma" ("Long live the Queen of the Marshes") during the day. That night about 10pm we went into town. Around 11pm there was a huge procession through town that lasts for hours. Then around 2am there is the Salto de la Verja (Leap Over the Railings) as young men storm the altar hoist the statue of Mary high in the air as it is paraded around the marshes for several hours with singing, dancing and drinking wine. It was a really great way to spend a birthday.

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