Dubrovnik (the most beautiful city ever). Oh, and Dont Forget Ljubljana

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First thing was first, I finally learned how to say Ljubljana (lu-ble-yana). We arrived at like 2 AM after a pretty shady night train. The hostel was super nice and we were got our first alcohol free/good sleep in a while.

Slovenia was very different from the other places we've been. First, it wasn't a big city like most of our other stops, and it didn't have many of the tourist attractions of others. Frankly, we didn't know what to expect, and while I was thinking Eastern Europe (ie - soviet style, dirty, dark and cold), it was anything but. Our hostel owner told us that if Father Prague and Mother Vienna had a child, it would be Ljubljana. It looked and felt very much like Vienna or Switzerland, very clean and safe. In fact, Slovenia has only been a country since 1991 after seperating from Yugoslovia (yeah, we've been studying). We saw all the sights and spent about 6 hours walking the city including 2 ridiculous hikes up to the castle because the camera battery died (and since we only have one (not that I'm bitter), we had to take a break. This is probably the steapest hills I have ever seen, let alone climbed. But the 20 minutes and 3000 calories were worth it. We also met a lovely 75 year old local woman who walked us around and was awesome. Then we headed out alone to scope the local scene since the other people in the hostel were a bit boring.

We found a strip of bars along the waterfront where all the college kids go out and made friends with the bartenders there. We drank the local beer, like we do everywhere. And after some delicious Union and Laska brews, we continued our streak of getting drunk everytime we are traveling early the next day. We were actually perfectly drunk when we paid, but we tipped too much and they insisted we have another. We tipped the same when we left, but we probably didn't need that last one. It never seems to fail that when we need to get up early for a train/flight, we stay out past 1 AM and get drunk. Its a tough life...

Overall, I think at first we didn't know how to take Ljubljana, but after exploring the city and checking out the food and night life, we both agreed it was a beautiful, clean and very different city. The country was much different from what I thought, but it was a great contrast.

Two funny things we found out as well. (1) The Russian and US embassies in Eastern Europe are usually far apart, but in Ljubljana, they are right next to eachother and seperated only by a kindergarden playground. Guess that's what happens when a country was formed post Cold War. (2) We learned that the mayor here gets paid depending upon his approval rating. So for example, he had an 86% approval rating, so he got 86% of his salary. I think its time we get this system for politicians in the States.

We were up and gone by 7 AM for a train to Zagreb. The weather is still decent, mid-30's and cloudy. I did have another run-in with law enforcement (like Italy last trip) when i was warned I would be fined if I had my shoes on the seat of the train. 20 bucks! I was ready to call the US consulate when the guy let up and said it was just a warning. Close one. Minutes later Mike dropped the remaining working camera and caught it by the strap. Needless to say, he is on notice that the strap MUST be around his wrist from this point forward. I almost died when I saw it.
We arrived in Zagreb and in all honesty, if I never went back - I'd be ok with that. I just didn't get a good vibe. It was the essence of Soviet-style Eastern Europe. A crazy cab ride to the airport at like 100 MPH - weaving, beeping and being crazy all the way to the airport - then we took a short flight to Dubrovnik and landed at the crazy airport where you literally fly between two mountains and land on top of another. In fact, in 1996 the US Secretary of Commerce was killed in a crash here on a trade mission. Good fact... I know.

As for Dubrovnik - there are no words. It may well be the most beautiful place I have ever seen on Earth. Write George Bernard Shaw once said - "Those who seek Paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik" - and I'd have to agree. It isn't very big, maybe 50,000 people - but hands down my favorite place thus far.

Dubrovnik's old city has been around since Medievil times, had a devestating earthquake in the 1600's but hasn't been rebuilt since. 2 out of every 3 buildings were destroyed in 1991 by Serbia who killed 300 people in the city to try to 'break the will' of the Croatian people. Today you can't even tell, and the city reminds most of Jerusalem - but cleaner. The weather was great the whole weekend. It was in the 50's and sunny most of the time - we were in short sleeves.
Dubrovnik is also called the Pearl of the Adriatic and has swirling seas that make for some of the clearest water in the world. And while we had 2 slow social nights, it was worth it to see the sites.

Another bonus (that has nothing to do with this being my favorite place) is that this was our one and only hotel stay. We stayed in the 5-star Hilton Imperial that was just feet from the Old City and was built just 2 years ago. Unlimited clean and hot showers, a comfortable bed, and all the amenities of a hotel - it was just amazing. We paid 30 euro a night, compared to 250 euro in the summer. Yet another reason that traveling now pays - literally.

We spent the first night just relaxing and enjoying the room, then went out to check the night life. The bars were packed full because this weekend is the World Team Handball Championships that is being hosted by Croatia. I watched team handball during the Olympics and actually liked it, and Mike is hooked now too. The hosts, Croatia won and play in the finals Sunday. We spend the night celebrating (lightly) with the locals, but were home 12.

Saturday, we got up to a glorious buffet breakfast of normal food, then we spent 4 hours walking the old city streets, then the walls of the fortress before lunch and a walk of the rest of the non-old city. I know I wrote that we did this. But you need to see the pictures to believe. It is the most amazing place I've ever been. The morning also included Mike meeting some American girls, talking for one second, then walking away. Literally, I didn't even have a chance to help the conversation before it was over. I remember it like this:

Mike - You girls from the States (we heard them talking)
Girls: Yeah....
(Awkward silence)
Mike: Ok... Well have fun
(Walks away)

I was cracking up, it reminded me of Dumb and Dumber. But it happens to everyone.

We had a traditional Serbian dinner which was one of the best meals of the trip and headed out for what we were old was a little crazier Saturday night. Truth was... The city was dead so we were in by 10. This was the only thing in Dubrovnik that disappointed... The social life. But... In the summer, it is the gem of Eastern Europe by all accounts.

We hit up the same breakfast on Sunday before Mike and I split. He headed to the Mueseum about the 1991 conflict, and I headed for the 2 hour hike to the top of the mountains overlooking the city. These are the same mountains where the city was shelled by the Serbs and still have landmines and missle parts in the hills (supposedly). An hour walk up the shady hill, and with warnings not to leave the trails because of landmines, I was a little concerned cause the trail was unmarked and not really a trail at all. Nonetheless, I found my way to some of the most beautiful views of the city and islands around. My knees were paying for it, the "path" was purely rocks, but it was worth it. I headed back for a much needed shower, and while I didn't make it to the very top, I was glad I went.

All in all, Dubrovnik was the best "detour" ever. It wasn't on the original plan, but I'd heard its the most beauitful city in Eastern Europe and I agree. There is no rail link (it was destroyed in the 1990's and frankly, the mountains are so steep it would be tough), so we needed to fly. But... I personally think I may come back. Words cannot describe it, but even with all the cities I've seen between the two trips here in Europe - for some reason I think this is my favorite.

17 days down, 10 to go. We fly back to Zagreb tonight then off to Budapest tomorrow. And to be honest... I'm excited. The first 9 days were non-stop (sight-seeing, food, drink till 2 am and repeat). And we knew the middle 9 would slow down drastically from a social perspective. And while they have... I'm hoping for very social hostels in Budapest, Munich, and Berlin - and frankly, I don't think I'll be letdown.

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Photos

Dubrovnik
One of the most beuatiful places I have ever seen in my life

Sunset over Ljbiljana
A very nice, but very different city - it was a nice change from the hustle and bustle of the HUGE cities.

Comments

[Catherine]

Thanks...
...for the good review of Dubrovnik. I'm thinking about heading there in September. Can I just ask how you managed to get a 5 star hotel room for 30euros??? Was it some kind of last minute deal, or did you do some major haggling at the desk? All the rooms i've seen in that hotel are upwards of 250euros!