Northern Portugal

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Any old Portugal and no storm.

Sunday 16th Sept.

Crossed the border into Portugal yesterday around five o clock, with a huge sense of joy and sheer emotion, happy tears flowed, we are here !! We have been to Portugal enough to know the welcome you could expect and it did not disappoint. Northern Spain to be honest we were glad to see in our mirrors, when I can borrow them from herself, just for a few minutes for driving like !!
We had over nighted in the very nice fishing port of Luarca, which is about 70km west of Gijon on the northern coast of Cataluña. We have been using the Alan Rodgers camping guide and find it great, it rarely steers you wrong, which is a good thing as we decided not to replace the garmin and instead rely on the tried and trusted large unfold able map, designed for an octopus, the position of the sun and the odd “you definitely should have turned off there” discussion !! But on this occasion thanks to Mr Rodgers, we found ourselves in a little fishing town beautifully, over many centuries, built into some very steep cliffs and perfect for the widest of Molly’s barrows. However it was no place for her descendants to be alive, alive-ohing in a three ton truck !! We managed to get our way to the sea wall and get turned with the aid of a very decent Spanish gent who then did his best to help us to the campsite, but I am sure he started his directions with I wouldn’t start from here!! Then just when all seemed lost a lady appeared from nowhere to say that she was the owner of the site and if we would like to follow her in her car to our refuge. How lucky was that. Have to say that she was a lovely lady and the beautiful campsite with 6 and 8 foot hydrangea hedges dividing each space was UP on the cliff top on the far side of the town at the end of the most white knuckle, bum clenching 2km we ever want to experience. I can not even try to describe what we drove up and around and I think over, but my abiding memory is of Orla telling Evan how much she loved him and showing him pictures of his loved ones, “ just in case“!! The very nice lady I reckon spends half her days down there parked on the seawall, picking up stray, shaking travellers.
Anyway after a stiff G&T we went back down the hill hanging onto the buggy for a pleasant stroll through town, some wine and a few tapas. On the way back to the camp a local farmer invited us to pick a few stalks of corn from his field, least I hope he did because we did and they were delicious later that evening sitting on our cliff top, looking out to sea at the lighthouses shimmering across the waves. It was a great end to an exciting day.
Saturday we rose early and hit the road for the drive about 40km more west and then turn left and head south and Portugal. We were planning to stop once more in Spain but the little fella, who I have to say is a great traveller, not that they all aren’t if you are listening pavee point, fell asleep at the right point in the journey to allow us to push on and cross the border into Portugal. I am sorry to say we didn’t really enjoy our Spanish adventure as much as we thought we would and at the risk of angering millions of Spaniards, although they will probably be not bothered by my opinion of them any more then they were aware of our presence among them ! The people we met in northern Spain had either the good sense or the bad manners to completely ignore us, depends on how you look at it, I suppose. (Except for my amigo on the seawall and the nice lady who was English.)
Anyway at our arrival at the first toll plaza on the Portuguese side the operator gave us a big smile and said “Welcome to Portugal”. Not much is it, but it means a lot. Here the people say ola to you as you pass, which is a bit confusing for Evan as he thinks everyone knows his mammy !! Children are welcome and people say hello to him and he says bom dia ( good day ) back. We are staying in Rio Alto, near the town of Estela about 30km north of Porto. We cycled to mass this morning in the local town, it was lovely. It is only a small village to be honest but you would travel just to hear the choir, especially the solo soprano, she was a young girl with a voice that soared and filled you into your bones. It was inspiring and we all enjoyed it. Afterwards in the village square it was like most of the people came over to see the strangers and especially the little boy. It was very nice but that’s how we find Portugal. On the way back to the campsite we pulled the bikes over at the local football pitch where a game was just ending. Our team won 2-0 so it was all in to the clubhouse where we were given a martini in a beer combination !! I kid you not, Orly reckons it’s the only way to drink martini. Tell you something it gives you some kick. We got talking to some of the lads from the club and if we are still here on Tuesday night they will have club t-shirts for us, unfortunately we will have moved on, but Agucadoura Futebol Clube is our new team, magnificent dirt pitch and all !!We had a few super bocks more before we cycled merrily back to the van for lunch, by the way 2 delicious cold beers a grand total of €1.90 in our new local club! Watch out CY that’s real competition.

Monday 17th Sept

Monday was a little on the dull side weather wise, so we decided to up stake and head to a campsite that our Portuguese friend Mario, who we met on this campsite told us about. Porto is his town and he is very proud of it. Mario is very well travelled all around Europe in his camper and I have no doubt that he has many friends every place he has been. He told us to go to Camping Madelena which is about 8km from the bridge in old Porto, out at the coast. it is on the 906 bus run back into the city and if you get it to the last stop then you are at the highest pint of the town and it is a wonderful walk down to the river to old Porto and across to Vila nova de gaia which is on the opposite bank of the river and is stacked high with port houses, all with tasting rooms, museums, tasting rooms, warehouses and did I mention the tasting rooms !!. After a nice 1hr drive we got to the site and took it a bit easy, deciding on a full day on the Tuesday in Porto. This is another Orbitir site and so it is well equipped with pool, playground showers, etc., and all for about €16 per night, excellent value.
I headed off for a walk to get a look at the place and to get something for the Barbie that night, while Orly decided Evan needed a scrub and to do some laundry. One by hand and the other by machine, though by the gleam of himself when I got back I’m not too sure !! Anyway I rambled into the village and found a butchers and got a piece of lamb at only €2.40 p/kg, a bottle of local white @less then €2 and together with a bunch of fresh veggies that Orly had bought from farmers stall at the side of the road on the way down, we had a feast for less than a tenner with enough lamb left to make another dinner !! In the butchers there were two old women in front of me, buying what looked like enough meat for the whole village. This was put into 6 bags at the checkout. They removed heir headscarves and made a little doughnut shaped ring out of them which they motioned to me was for the bags. I thought it was to protect their hands from the weight, but no with the help of the butcher the heaviest bag was lifted up into their heads where it sat on top of the doughnut, and with a bag in each hand as well off with them. I was behind them going down the cobbled hill for about 600m and they chatting all the way, not a budge out of the bags, I was exhausted looking at them. They must of known that I was impressed because when they turned off they gave me a bright toothless grin and an adios. Real women don’t need cars !!

Tuesday 18th Sept

Tuesday morning into Porto for the day and what a day !! Our new favourite city. Like I said got the bus in and started to ramble. Its an old city which is starting to be restored, but what an atmosphere it has. It feels safe and friendly, people say ola and stop to talk to children and I really mean stop and talk. Waiting outside shops is like an invitation for someone to stop and talk to Evan and show pictures of their children and tell you a little about themselves or the city. We were nearly back down to the river when who did we meet but Mario and his wonderful daughter Teresa and we all went for coffee down by the waterfront. We talked for at least an hour and had a lovely time in their very easy company. As I said Mario is very proud of his city and rightly so it is a brilliant place that we are already planning to visit again. Did I mention the tasting rooms, which are across the river in Villa Nova de Gaia, well we visited them for the rest of the afternoon. After several tastings and explanations of how its all done we staggered into a restaurant to get the little fella something to eat. After a bite we returned for one final tasting before Evan put us all in a taxi and brought us home, good lad !! If you do get the chance of a weekend in Porto, TAKE IT.

Wednesday 19th Sept

Wednesday we were back on the road heading for Foz de Arelha, on the coast outside Obidos an hour north of Lisbon. Found the site and went to the beach about 1km away on the bikes. We made sand castles at the edge of the beautiful lagoon and sat in a little beach bar watching the red sun sink into the Atlantic, heaven. That’s when we remembered that we left the lights in the garage of the camper so downed the beers, for the courage and off with us up the road before it got too dark. Thought about taking Evans nappy off for the cycle home, to light the road, because as everyone knows the sun shines out of his you know what !!. The voice of reason from the other bike reckoned I still had to many tastings floating around inside me.
By the way a big thanks to Karl H for making sure the house phone is still working by ringing us here on my mobile the other day and spending half an hour on our phones. Never heard him so chatty !!

Thursday 20th September,

2007

Orly here! Its 10.30 and I still can’t get used to it, but Evan is fast asleep for the last 2 and a half hours. I hope this is the way it going to be and not just because of the heat. Time will tell. Went to take a bus this morning into the town Caldas da Rainha where we were told we could catch a connecting bus into Obidos. Stood at the side of the road for about ½ an hour but ‘Bertie the Bus’ never arrived. Evan assured us that he hadn’t slept it out, so we went back to reception to find out what happened. No bus at this time during low season so we got a taxi to the bus station and then out to Obidos, perched high on a hill overlooking the surrounding plain. I didn’t know what to expect of Obidos but it was so very beautiful. All little cobbled streets and whitewashed houses decorated with the most beautiful flowers, both within and outside the walled town. It was so pretty. The boys climbed to the top of the Castle and Evan was delighted with himself. The Pousada here is a 9 bed hotel in the middle of the village and I’m sorry we didn’t get to it on our last trip to Portugal. It was full at the time and I would imagine you would definitely have to book way in advance. Same with the restaurant in it - booked out. There seemed to be a good few Americans visiting here. Same with the last really pretty place, St. Emilion. I don’t think it would be that difficult to find somewhere to stay here as there were plenty of beautiful looking hotels and rooms to rent in ancient little houses scattered throughout the little cobbled streets. Had an ice cream break first with Evan as it was so hot when we arrived. And following the climb up to the Pousada and about half way back down we found a lovely little restaurant in the shade where Evan made loads of new friends again!!! A group of 3 Chinese girls, one named Jenny! were delighted with him and we had great fun with little 17 month old Mathilde and her mammy and daddy. He has had the face kissed off him since he arrived in Portugal. Even elderly gentlemen stop to have a giggle with him. It is amazing. We got back into Caldas da Rainha too early for the connecting bus back to the campsite, so grabbed a taxi again. Howie planned to go out after tea down to the beachside restaurant to see the France/Ireland rugby game so when we got settled in, off he went. Myself and Evan went off for a walk around the park - well, I walked stooped over trying to hold on to Evans hoodie and Evan tricycled as fast as he could away from me any chance he got!! He loves that thing. He’s getting very brave indeed. We were only back and Howie arrived back in. Match not on until tomorrow night. ‘You silly moo moo’ as Evan would say!!

So that’s it from me for now. Hope to have an easy day at the beach tomorrow and have to see about getting the blog up on internet before a big travel day on Saturday down south. It’s a tough life!!

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