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Published: October 18th 2022
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Sunday October 16– Up early, because I just can’t help it. Made some eggs for breakfast and then headed down to the bus stop where I would meet the tour bus at 8:30. I showed up 10 minutes early and the bus driver was already there. The next pick-up was not until 9:00 and it was a 10-minute drive away, so we stopped at a café where the driver had a coffee. There were only 8 other people on the tour, which was nice, and they were all staying in the hotel/Lido zone, where I had walked a couple of days ago.
We headed out shortly after 9:00 and it was a full day out. Our first stop was a fishing village not too far from Funchal called Câmara de Lobos. They were famous for whaling, but since that stopped in the 80s, they modernized and became more of a touristic site. There used to be monk seals here in days past, but now you can only find them on the uninhabited islands off the coast. They do still fish from here though.
Cabo Girão viewpoint was our next stop. It’s the highest sea cliff in Europe (and the
second-highest in the world, supposedly) at 580 meters. It has a glass platform that you can stand on and look down to the beach. I thought it would be a little more exhilarating but really it wasn’t that exciting and it was super crowded. Most of the time we hardly passed or saw other cars, but often they all gathered in the same place.
Next stop was Ribeira Brava, a small town, and then on to Paúl da Serra plateau. It’s the flattest area in the entire Island. I didn’t think there was anywhere flat on the island! The day had started out sunny but by this point, clouds were rolling in. Quite dramatic.
We stopped for several photo stops along the way as well, and by the time we rolled into Porto Moniz, the main stopping point, it was already 2pm. I decided to be a team player and have lunch with the group, but they all talked to their own friends and I read my book. Better if I had just gone off on my own. When I finished eating, I walked over to the natural swimming pools in the rocks. I walked over to one
that the driver, Tino, had suggested, but it looked more commercial. I then walked towards the more wild pools on the other side, which had some pretty views along the way, and went for a very quick swim. I think I only had 10 min in the water but it was nice. A little nudity while changing in front of the whole world like a proper European and I was on my way back to the van to meet the group.
From here we were headed back to Funchal. We stopped for a look at a small waterfall called Véu da Noiva (Bride’s Veil) waterfall. It’s about 30 meters high but did not have so much water coming down. Maybe it’s bigger when it rains?
Our last real stop was in the village of São Vicente. Had a look at the cemetery and the church and a couple of streets, but not much you can do in 20 minutes.
The last place we passed by that was new was Encumeada’s viewpoint at 1007 meters, and then it was a straight shot back to Funchal. Our tour guide was nice and never stopped talking, but he seemed to
be getting friendlier and friendlier as the tour went on. By the end I’m convinced he was positively in love with me. He drove me back closer my place than the pick-up point, so I didn’t have to walk up the hill that final time. He gave me his facebook and kissed my hand before I left. Yikes. The tour was supposed to end between 4:30-5pm, but I finally got back at 6pm. It was a long day.
I packed up, talked to Jeroen, made dinner and tried to sleep early. I set my alarm for 3am because the taxi was coming at 4am. Man, early flights (and late flights) stink.
But, overall, it has been a great trip. Never enough sleep, but a really good experience. Beautiful landscapes, nice people, good food. More bus stops than I think I’ve ever seen in my life. Come to Madeira – you won’t regret it!
Monday October 17 – Up at 3am, taxi arrived at 4am, 6am flight to Lisbon delayed an hour once on board, missed second flight, got $34 in food vouchers and routed through Barcelona to Zurich. Got home at 7pm, 4 hours later than expected.
Good to be home.
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